deflooded and found leading plugs up top and trailing in bottom
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deflooded and found leading plugs up top and trailing in bottom
What's up everyone,
I have an 88 1.3 n/a conv. Daily driver and went to start it for work one morning running late and realized I didn't have enough gas, so I shut it off before it warmed up. Tried to start it two days later and it had an unusual winding sound instead of turning over. Now I had the same model of car except a GXL 10 years ago and it flooded out really bad one time and I think that it made the same sound but I can't be sure.
Someone who had previously owned the car put in qa switch to cut the power to the fuel injector, so you wouldn't have to remove the fuse. (convinient and a pretty nice anti-theft tool) Anyway i tried that and it didn't work so i started the deflooding today and since I have only had this car for a little over a year and only put 8000 miles on it I haven't changed the sparkplugs, well anyway I found that leading plug up top and the trailing plugs in the bottom.
Now the question is, has anyone heard of somebody doing this in order to bypass a problem, the only reason is because for some reason I didn't get a compression check (I don't know why) and now I'm just paranoid. Well I finished the deflooding and it still hasn't help although it sounds as though it's trying to start. The plugs didn't look in the best shape so I'll go ahead and change them, but since the car was running great before this happened I don't think this is going to solve the problem. Any help would be great.
I have an 88 1.3 n/a conv. Daily driver and went to start it for work one morning running late and realized I didn't have enough gas, so I shut it off before it warmed up. Tried to start it two days later and it had an unusual winding sound instead of turning over. Now I had the same model of car except a GXL 10 years ago and it flooded out really bad one time and I think that it made the same sound but I can't be sure.
Someone who had previously owned the car put in qa switch to cut the power to the fuel injector, so you wouldn't have to remove the fuse. (convinient and a pretty nice anti-theft tool) Anyway i tried that and it didn't work so i started the deflooding today and since I have only had this car for a little over a year and only put 8000 miles on it I haven't changed the sparkplugs, well anyway I found that leading plug up top and the trailing plugs in the bottom.
Now the question is, has anyone heard of somebody doing this in order to bypass a problem, the only reason is because for some reason I didn't get a compression check (I don't know why) and now I'm just paranoid. Well I finished the deflooding and it still hasn't help although it sounds as though it's trying to start. The plugs didn't look in the best shape so I'll go ahead and change them, but since the car was running great before this happened I don't think this is going to solve the problem. Any help would be great.
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And btw does anyone know the correct procedures to do a poor man's compression check? Guess it would help to know if I have compression...and can you lose compression all of a sudden.
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What you describe is right in line with a flooded motor. The gasoline has essentially destroyed the oil seal sealing the chambers and so with less compression isn't sealing and is spinning faster than with compression. Make sure you crank it over a lot with the plugs out even to the extent that a battery charger is neccesary. A dab of oil in the spark plug holes is often recomended to get pressure back up. More details at rx7.com
I've had luck once with the poor man's compression test where the front rotor read 110 and the rear read 0psi. I've also not had luck when I was under the stress of not needing it for my car and using another guy's equipment to test the car he was trying to sell me. All you do is put it in like you would any other engine, hold release valve open, and have assistant floor it while starting it (ecu plug removed). You should see 3 even bounces.
BTW this information is everywhere. I and others will recomend a search.
I've had luck once with the poor man's compression test where the front rotor read 110 and the rear read 0psi. I've also not had luck when I was under the stress of not needing it for my car and using another guy's equipment to test the car he was trying to sell me. All you do is put it in like you would any other engine, hold release valve open, and have assistant floor it while starting it (ecu plug removed). You should see 3 even bounces.
BTW this information is everywhere. I and others will recomend a search.
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Wonderful info Sar. Appreciate the help. I'll post again prob around the weekend to let everybody know how it turned out but seriously thanks for taking the time to help.
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