rx7babygurl85

hey i need a clutch for my car and im having a hard time deciding on what to get... this will go on a turbo n/a so ill need it to fit the n/a driveline which means i might have to just go 6 puck due to the unpuck ones ive found are rated for only up to 250 hp..... the stock turbo will put out more than that

i like racing beat and would rather buy from them due to good exp in the past with them but i thought i heard somewhere their clutches are not good.... they are not badly priced at all what are your suggestions?

btw i have a daily driver bronco and this is a nice weather day car and weekend warrior at the track... so its not really a daily at all

thanks in advance
christopher

cwsttu

well thats me AGAIN..... not april

Archangels

Canterforce Dual-Friction Clutch....

wins hands down, the BEST clutch i have ever used....

cheap too!...

Mx6-Rx7 Addict

ACT S/S or ACT 6 puck sprung... with H/D Press. Plate.

Both are a good choice. I've beaten my ACT S/S with HD PP hard, and never once slipped or smoked.

That's also on a ported NA.. Turbo app. different, but room mate with TII has same combo and no problems.

ACT 2100 on my dsm, and works ok.

-Justin

TwEaK

iTrader: (6)

i have a AST Bronze Clutch i hope it can hold 350 to the wheels if not im going to be pissed i was told it can so...
TwEaK

bingoboy

ok call me a party pooper but 300+ hp is going to destroy your NA drivetrain if you ever try to use it. how about T2 drivetrain and then find a decent T2 clutch?

Node

iTrader: (1)

ACT S/S just a little stiffer than stock and holds 330ft/lbs+

introVert

I'm with him- that is specifically why I am running a turbo trans, rear end, driveshaft & axles on the 'vert. It is absolutely worth the peace of mind if you ever plan to flog that Honda revving at you in the next lane and don't have the reserve to feather it instead of a tire shredding launch. **not that I endorse street racing**

(disclaimer over)

With that amount of horsies at your disposal, if you plan to keep the n/a running gear, don't drive like an ***.

P.S.- using an act h/d pressure plate with the stock turbo clutch disc, and all is well

cwsttu

ok thanks for the replies, and guys about the n/a tranny i know its not going to just hold up forever... thats why i just need it for a little bit, a few guys here have run the n/a tranny on a turbo car and no problems until later on down the road.... rotary ressurection did a huge write up on it and based on what he said i should be fine for a bit ..... when i get my turbo rearend then ill swap in a turbo blah blah blah...... but for now its a n/a driveline

thanks
christopher

Archangels

i still think the centerforce dual-frition clutch is your best bet, it cost me $220 canadian brand new with a pressure plate....

god i love this clutch....

ultradef

ACT Xtreme PP with the S/S disk should be a good compromise between streetability and reliability. Just make sure you buy all new clutch hydraulics (slave and master cylinders and maybe a stainless braided clutch line) because the Xtreme PP is known to destroy clutch hydraulics in a matter of minutes (and I know this from experience)

stacher

I own a Turbo 6 port N/A as well. I am using the N/A drivetrain. I have a RB 6 puck bronze unsprong clutch with stock pressure plate. I too use it for crusing on weekends (racing) and some track racing. I don't do hard launches (3-4K) however, on all other gears (2,3,4,5) I drive it hard (redline it). The clutch will not slip however, with this clutch and over 300 HP, I have lost control shifting into 2nd gear. The tranny has held up to this type of driving for a year now. However my driveshaft did not. I had to replace it once already.
In order to maximize my power, I am now installing a T2 drivetrain (Tranny, shaft, diff). I paid $100 for this clutch. So, if you are planning on replacing your drivetrain, I would not spend much money on a N/A clutch.
Watch your launches (I try to race rolling at about 4000 rpm, except at the track)) and your drivetrain will last you a while.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Well... the problem is most of these suggestions suck for the N/A's. I've tried various, and so far the best I've come up with for the N/a flywheel is from clutchnet, call them directly and tell them what you need.