Dealer recall auto-belts fix broke, returning today
#1
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Dealer recall auto-belts fix broke, returning today
Welp, I had the dealer fix the broke/locked auto belts a few months ago. They told me the bill would have been $1300, but since it was on recall, it was all under life-time warantee.
Well the fix broke about a month later. I've been driving it around since with locked belts. . I called them yesturday to ask them to fix the problem, and the guy sounded like they could be helpful.
But..
He said "parts are under warantee" and he didn't say anything about labor. Should I be concerned here? I'm taking the car back in an hour to have them look at the rails again to see what happened. I don't want to get screwed with a labor bill...
I've got a copy of the original Recall letter, should I take it with just incase?
`Kent
Well the fix broke about a month later. I've been driving it around since with locked belts. . I called them yesturday to ask them to fix the problem, and the guy sounded like they could be helpful.
But..
He said "parts are under warantee" and he didn't say anything about labor. Should I be concerned here? I'm taking the car back in an hour to have them look at the rails again to see what happened. I don't want to get screwed with a labor bill...
I've got a copy of the original Recall letter, should I take it with just incase?
`Kent
#4
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I gave up on the stupid things.
Sholder belt carrier - rolled back by hand.
Belts latched in.
Belt contol module under the golve box - removed.
I leave them connected & just pull it over my head when getting in.
Sholder belt carrier - rolled back by hand.
Belts latched in.
Belt contol module under the golve box - removed.
I leave them connected & just pull it over my head when getting in.
#5
Nurse I need 1300cc's NOW
bought racing harnesses and they are a bit quicker to put on for me. i just took the whole thing out and put the harnesses in the mounting point for the seatbelts. work fine for me
#6
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Ok guys (esp. Mark ) -- They fiddled with it for 2 hours. The resolution "The motor and cable are not the problem, we are getting odd resistance from the switch in the door panel, its not covered by recall, do you want us to fix it?"
I said "No, mark the wire with bad resistance, I'll figure it out on my own, sorry for wasting your time."
I get home, and jumper the switch they say is bad. I hear the belt drive relay click, and the motor activate and then sound like it bottoms out. Odd.
I pull the erst of the molding off, and see the cable for the belt is pulled all the way out of the rail. Very odd! I grab a hex key and get the cable back into the motor. I open the door, and everything works 100% perfect. I shut the door, and the belt comes back. 100% fine.
But... I see what the problem was, nothing to do with the belt. The mount that holds the cable to the motor/holder had broken from its mount.
I called the dealer, told them it had nothing to do with the switch and was infact dealing with the motor/rail. They said they would be willing to look at it again next week. I said, fine.
Here are some pictures.
I'm with this debate, fix it myself (will take 20 seconds with super glue). Or take it back to the dealer for another replacement...
Attatchments
1) Marked wire per dealer
2) Cable pull 3, 4, 5 too. The two circled pieces are supposed to be connected, but the plastic broke. This item guides the cable from the holder to the rail. Without it, or with it broken, the cable bungles up behind the molding, instead of going into the rail.
I said "No, mark the wire with bad resistance, I'll figure it out on my own, sorry for wasting your time."
I get home, and jumper the switch they say is bad. I hear the belt drive relay click, and the motor activate and then sound like it bottoms out. Odd.
I pull the erst of the molding off, and see the cable for the belt is pulled all the way out of the rail. Very odd! I grab a hex key and get the cable back into the motor. I open the door, and everything works 100% perfect. I shut the door, and the belt comes back. 100% fine.
But... I see what the problem was, nothing to do with the belt. The mount that holds the cable to the motor/holder had broken from its mount.
I called the dealer, told them it had nothing to do with the switch and was infact dealing with the motor/rail. They said they would be willing to look at it again next week. I said, fine.
Here are some pictures.
I'm with this debate, fix it myself (will take 20 seconds with super glue). Or take it back to the dealer for another replacement...
Attatchments
1) Marked wire per dealer
2) Cable pull 3, 4, 5 too. The two circled pieces are supposed to be connected, but the plastic broke. This item guides the cable from the holder to the rail. Without it, or with it broken, the cable bungles up behind the molding, instead of going into the rail.
Last edited by Kenteth; 09-09-04 at 04:00 PM.
#7
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I decided to fix it myself.
It took about 3 minutes to ziptie that mount to the frame where it does its job just fine. Thanks dealer for wasting both our times. Even though the piece is broke, I think I'm just going to drop the issue. I got it so the system works-- thats enough for me...
It took about 3 minutes to ziptie that mount to the frame where it does its job just fine. Thanks dealer for wasting both our times. Even though the piece is broke, I think I'm just going to drop the issue. I got it so the system works-- thats enough for me...
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