Dead clutch?....or not?
Dead clutch?....or not?
I just picked up this turbo 2 like a week ago. I was told it needs a clutch but heres the thing. I'll push the pedal down(goes all the way to the floor with almost no resistance), put the car in gear and let the pedal out. The car will start to move but I have to pick the pedal up off the floor to get the car going more. Once it hits 2000 rpm it will slip like crazy.
I've checked the fluid and it is full, Im thinking it doesnt need a clutch but maybe the slave cylinder is shot and not letting the clutch out al the way. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I just wanna drive my new Turbo II. : (
Matt
88 T2...new to the turbo world. Heres what the bitch has got....
88 t2, jspec flash to pass lenses,jspec engine, jspec decals(gtx), mazdatrix short shifter, stainless steel oil lines, apexi dual n1's catback, bonez down pipe,bonez race pipe,bonez intake,AutoMeter Boost Gauge,haltech haltuner, border headlight cover,jacobs rotary master,energy core wires,apexi blow-off valve,enkei rpo2's falken tires,greddy turbo timer,greddy radiator 1.3 bar cap,racing beat under drive pulley, knightsports dual alternator pulley,custom front lip,rotor oil cap,g-force ecu,walbro fuel pump,round tail lights,kyb agx adjustables,intrax springs,removed air pump
I've checked the fluid and it is full, Im thinking it doesnt need a clutch but maybe the slave cylinder is shot and not letting the clutch out al the way. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I just wanna drive my new Turbo II. : (
Matt
88 T2...new to the turbo world. Heres what the bitch has got....
88 t2, jspec flash to pass lenses,jspec engine, jspec decals(gtx), mazdatrix short shifter, stainless steel oil lines, apexi dual n1's catback, bonez down pipe,bonez race pipe,bonez intake,AutoMeter Boost Gauge,haltech haltuner, border headlight cover,jacobs rotary master,energy core wires,apexi blow-off valve,enkei rpo2's falken tires,greddy turbo timer,greddy radiator 1.3 bar cap,racing beat under drive pulley, knightsports dual alternator pulley,custom front lip,rotor oil cap,g-force ecu,walbro fuel pump,round tail lights,kyb agx adjustables,intrax springs,removed air pump
I had a similar problem with my 87 N/A ... I was not sure if it was the slave, or the master cylinder so I bought rebuild kits for both cost less than $40 and took about 1.5 hrs to complete both. Sure enough after a good long bleed session (bench bleed the master cylinder first, with pressure) all was well and the pedal returned perferct from then on.
tip: if you have never rebuild a clutch master cylinder take it apart slowly .... the kit i got had no directions of how it all went back together.
G luck, hope that helps a bit.
tip: if you have never rebuild a clutch master cylinder take it apart slowly .... the kit i got had no directions of how it all went back together.
G luck, hope that helps a bit.
I got both of my kits at the local autozone. Bench bleed: just bleed the master cylinder portion before you mount it get good pressure built up in it first. Saves time bleed ing the whole thing at once, since usally it is a "get the wife out to pump the clutch" job. use your finger at the hose connector end to create back presure. nothing to it really.
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