BlaCkPlaGUE

lol, how many help me threads am I going to post?

Alright, I bought all new gaskets from the dealer, I used NO rtv on any of them and torqued all bolts to 20ft pounds as per FSM technical.
I torqued the oil injectors to 17ft pounds spec, and I tightened the one way valves on them pretty tight. I bought a vac spider through mazda, connected up and it fits in there much better than my old custom made one.

I started it up and it was backfiring and **** and when I pressed the pedal to keep it going when the rpms dropped, it would almost stall out. I had to hold it at 2k for a while and then I let go and all was good.

So I left the idle screw open all the way, the only vac leak that should be controlled on this goddamn intake system. Idle was at 2000rpm.
Started turning, all the way to the bottom, and it settled at 1400rpm....


WHAT THE HELL???

goddamnit, but it was running nicer it seemed. There was the occasional missing as usually, but the engine was shaking or anything, it was an extremley smooth 1500rpm idle. I did something right.

So I start testing ****, this is interesting.

all this I did while the engine was running

I pulled the air temp sensor harness off and it did nothing for the idle, nothing was affected.
I put it back on

I pulled the harness for the mani. pressure sensor, and that did nothing. So i plugged it back in and pulled off the vac line. With one finger im plugging the vac line, and at the same time Im sucking and blowing air into the pressure sensor. Nothing at all happened and the idle didn't change....
Are my sensors all fucked up or something? or do they only work at cruising speed?

So I just sat in the car and admired the one thing that was nice about my car, the interrior. I turned on the heat and sat there watching the gauges just thinking on what I should do next. The temp was getting near the halfway point (my fan is off, im waiting for an efan) so I turn her off.

All I can think of doing is taking a smoke, on a non windy day, and try to see if I can pinpoint this vac leak....
All the nipples that were used for emissions are all tapped and plugged with grub plugs, they were poxyed in place. Those are the only things that I can suspect now.

Any suggestions? I swear, I learn something new everyday with this car, but I also get a little more frustrated with it.
Im also thinking of putting the dashpot on cause when I let the throttle off she backfires a little, and I don't like that.

The timing is also dead on, well dead on for 1500rpm..
I also pulled the harness for the variable resistor, JUST to see if she was running lean or something becuase of it, and it did nothing.
Should I also RTV the TB gasket? Maybe its leaking from there, its just plastic, I doubt it seals well..
I would have made a code checker, but I really suck *** with anything electrical, plus if it was throwing a code, my CEL would be on right?
I also checked the brake booster line (I believe thats what it is, its the larger nipple on the LIM to the left) and I even tested it for leaks when I had the manifold on my basement. Nothing. I pulled it off while the car was running and put my finger on it, again nothing changed...


Why do none of my sensors other than the afm respond to what im doing to them?

help me?

BlaCkPlaGUE

Uhhh, interesting. Im in bed sleeping when I think,

"you know, let me check that timing again, I think I did it wrong... Maybe I matched up the leading coil with the trailing mark?"

I checked it out and I did. I turned the car off, took the cas out and re-centered it.
The idle instantly dropped to 1000rpm.

So thats better, but still not good enoughe.

HAILERS

You need a timing light to set timing. Period.

The ECU automatically advances the timing somewhere b/t 1000 and 1100 rpm. So you need the idle down below say 900 to set the timing with the timing light.

Installing the initial set coupler might/might not overcome the above 1000 rpm auto advance.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Don't rtv the phenolic tb spacer, it has small air passages that could be plugged by the rtv. Sounds like a vac leak to me, I chased mine for months this last summer. I found 2 of the nipples caps had split and the banjo bolt on the lim for the brake booster line wan't torqued. None of these leaks could i find by the normal testing methods. I ended up taking everything apart and found the problems during re-assembly.

Good luck and happy hunting.

HAILERS

Then there's always the possibility that the grommets on the fuel injectors are the original ones and are .......leaking air and causing a high idle/rough idle/irregular idle/bad idle.

Or the acv could have a bad diaphram for the anti afterburn valve inside it and is leaking air into the intake when it should not.

Or, or, or, .........and on and on it goes.

Chimera747

dont forget to put your car into diagnostic mode, there is a jumper you have to insert on a connector up by the driverside headlight, if you dont do this while you are adjusting the car it wont work right. dont need any fancy jumper, just cram a short legnth of wire in the connector

BlaCkPlaGUE

I have a timing light btw, its impossible to set the timing accuratley without one.

The injector grommets are a good start. The brake booster banjo bolt/pipe have been thoroughly tested.

Come to think of it, the injector grommets come out very easily, makes you wonder if they are leaking air...


You know what im going to do? Im going to take my shop vac and rig it up with some rubber tubing and straps to the throttle body elbow. Im gonna take a cigar or some **** and find out where theres air leaking, this is getting crazy.

thanks for your help guys, it is much appreciated!

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Don't use your shop vac on vacuume if there is any fuel vapor at all. Kaboom!!!!

BlaCkPlaGUE

I doubt theres enoughe to cause an explosion... Not when the engines been sitting for a couple days.

I have a pump cut off switch, I could use that to shut the engine off, eliminating any fuel in the intake. The injectors are cleaned, so they don't leak..