Just got my car running good with the motor i put in. Idle is being a pain in the *** though. Jumps from 1100 to 1500, except sometimes it will hold 1100 solid, but after you hit the gas, it will go back to the varying rpm. My TPS is adjusted damn near perfect at the idle positiion and at WOT. I suspected by BAC b/c when i disconnect the connector, the idle doesnt drop like its supposed to (thought the wierd idle might not make that a valid test though) and still is messed up. My question is, the little bolt on the top part of the throttle body, the one that has the JB weld on it and the nut you take off, i had adjusted that so my idle would be at like 1500 when i first got the motor put in, is that screw supposed to touch the little lever for the secondary plates at all? I cant turn it to back it off anymroe b/c whoever designed that screw was a ******* retard and needs to have his kneecaps broken...its impossible to turn and I finally found the right size screw driver and its been getting more ate up and ate up, so now you cant even turn it. Im either just gonna break it off or drill into and back it off..any other ideas?? I've checked for vacc. leaks everywhere with carb cleaner...no sudden idle raise....main question is though...is that screw supposed to touch the lever at all??

 

kind of made it confusing b/c i didnt finish what i was saying about the bac...i swapped it with my other one and still no change....

 

Are you sure it's not a vacuum leak? If you can guarantee it isn't, then it sounds like you have a TPS problem. Try adjusting it with the car FULLY warm. Once you have the TPS set, start looking at other causes such a stuck open air bypass solenoid, and the infamous stuck thermowax/cold start system. Lots of info can be found by searching "TPS adjustment", "stuck cold start", etc.

 

not SURE its not a vacc leak...always the chance. But now I removed that bolt all the way for the secondary throttle plates...and I can set my idle now...have it at like 750..its still kinda bounce..goes like 750 400....but not as bad...pretty steady at 600 really...when im driving in gear and push clutch in the idle will first go to liek almost 300 but then come back up. Vacc leak still you think or???

thanks aaron.

 

bump bump bump

 

Exactly my problem.

Up and down, up and down. And no matter how many times I ask, I never get an answer. Oh well.

Im replacing all the lines with silicon lines (which will be here tomorrow) and eliminating as much as possible at first. Hopefully that will fix it. If not I will go on from there. Im doing this all on my own though cause no1 seems to know much about it.

BTW, same thing happens with my BACv. I unplug it and nada. I adjust the screw, nothing. I replaced it with another and still nothing. I dunno whats up with it.

 

i feel you brotha...hehe...yeah..im pretty damn sure i have no vacc leaks...but maybe im wrong...carb cleaner tells me no...hehe. i think its something electrical we'll see..right now its mostly steady at 700ish but will drop to 300 once in awhile...car doesnt die or anything..and having my lights on doesnt seem to hurt it..ill just live w/it till im ready to go troubleshoot again..

 

i feel you brotha...hehe...yeah..im pretty damn sure i have no vacc leaks...but maybe im wrong...carb cleaner tells me no...hehe. i think its something electrical we'll see..right now its mostly steady at 700ish but will drop to 300 once in awhile...car doesnt die or anything..and having my lights on doesnt seem to hurt it..ill just live w/it till im ready to go troubleshoot again..

 

Ah, I don't have any vacuum leaks either. My main idea is that I have some line hooked up to the wrong spot, which is causing something to get vacuum when it shouldn't, giving it this problem. I figured I am going to tear everything apart to find it anyway, so I may as well replace the lines incase they are the problem.