CV boot replacement
CV boot replacement
Looks like a pain in the ***.. just dropped my subframe and changed the diff mount and put it back together.. Both left and right inner cv boots are torn. So Ill have to replace them soon.
How involved is the process? Any specialty tools needed? Wasn't really looking forward to spending $40 on boots with a unemployed budget.
How involved is the process? Any specialty tools needed? Wasn't really looking forward to spending $40 on boots with a unemployed budget.
I got a whole picture thread in my build (see signature). These CV axles are a breeze compared to other axles I have rebuilt in the past (toyota 4x4's with floating axles). You just need a snap ring tool, brake parts cleaner and lots of gloves. Depending on the type of boot clamp you end up getting (I bought two different pairs of boots, since the first ones were universal, non-oem style) it will also require that you get a CV boot clamp tool. As far as I know, there are really only two style of boot clamps. The best and most painless are going to be the clamps that have "ears" on them that you just crimp down to tighten (which by the way are what I have seen O.E.M use). The most pain in the *** are the band style where you have to pull the band by hand and try to tighten down the clamp at the same time.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...u=00918445000P
Hope that helps.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...u=00918445000P
Hope that helps.
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,881
Likes: 3
From: Jacksonville, Tampa & Tallahassee
I actually had the cup in the bottom of the cv assembly (the silver part that faces the diff) blow out on mine, throwing grease everywhere. apparently they are non-rebuildable as no one sells that plate or just the cup. I tried another cup (which ended up being n/a
then I decided to rtv the sucker! ...that lasted about a month, so now I need to replace that axel.
I guess I could swap the cup, especially since I re-packed both axels when I tried to fix the one. Point is, its not tough@ all if u only wasn't to change the boot, just unbolt the axel from the diff, remove the retaining ring (might be hard to see w/all the grease) and the cup slides right off. Then just slide the bout off and put the new one on. Id mark where the old bout was on the axel too.
I u want to be thorough, clean off the axels and repack them, but that might not be too appealing while lasting under the car...
then I decided to rtv the sucker! ...that lasted about a month, so now I need to replace that axel.I guess I could swap the cup, especially since I re-packed both axels when I tried to fix the one. Point is, its not tough@ all if u only wasn't to change the boot, just unbolt the axel from the diff, remove the retaining ring (might be hard to see w/all the grease) and the cup slides right off. Then just slide the bout off and put the new one on. Id mark where the old bout was on the axel too.
I u want to be thorough, clean off the axels and repack them, but that might not be too appealing while lasting under the car...
How does that silver end cap blow out on you??? It must of been damaged in the first place to not be re-useable. I reuse mine with no issues. I guess a tip would be to not pry the end cap off the cv boot, use the axle itself to pop it out. Also, when reinstalling the cap, make sure the surfaces are not greasy, but dry. Same applies for the boot. Clean and make sure the area where you are putting the clamps is dry and not greasy.
No need to mark where the old boot was. There are "dimples" (for lack of a better term), that indicated where the clamps should go. But it wouldn't help to take note.
By the way, doing the whole thing while under the car would be a nightmare. On top of that, if the old axle boot is torn, you MUST clean off the axle's ball bearings and old grease. You don't know if dirt got in there or not, and if it did, it will damage your ball bearings thereafter.
No need to mark where the old boot was. There are "dimples" (for lack of a better term), that indicated where the clamps should go. But it wouldn't help to take note.
By the way, doing the whole thing while under the car would be a nightmare. On top of that, if the old axle boot is torn, you MUST clean off the axle's ball bearings and old grease. You don't know if dirt got in there or not, and if it did, it will damage your ball bearings thereafter.
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,881
Likes: 3
From: Jacksonville, Tampa & Tallahassee
I figured that would come up... Lol
I dumb bitch running you off the road @ 75mph in a ford explorer and sliding sideways/backwards into a concrete drainage ditch'....that's how
Those caps should NOT come out at all, judging by how difficult it was to try to remove the one on my good axel. Honestly there is no reason to ever remove them barring a situation similar to the aforementioned.
Got point about cleaning and re-greasing, but we both know there are many "have to do" proceedures that get list in the shuffle of the backyard mechanic
That being said, unless he plans to remove the whole axel I'm not sure how he could get around cleaning/packing under the car. And I can't think of anything more stubborn than axel nuts...
I dumb bitch running you off the road @ 75mph in a ford explorer and sliding sideways/backwards into a concrete drainage ditch'....that's how

Those caps should NOT come out at all, judging by how difficult it was to try to remove the one on my good axel. Honestly there is no reason to ever remove them barring a situation similar to the aforementioned.
Got point about cleaning and re-greasing, but we both know there are many "have to do" proceedures that get list in the shuffle of the backyard mechanic
That being said, unless he plans to remove the whole axel I'm not sure how he could get around cleaning/packing under the car. And I can't think of anything more stubborn than axel nuts...
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Circlip pliers, and fencing pliers (Thats what I use to compress the clamps)..they're fencing pliers that have jaws with what looks to be blades, they're for removing nails or something for fences but they work great for boot clamps. Oh, and I believe the RX7 has fixed rzeppa joints for inners, mark the joint to shaft upon removal it may not be important but just incase.
I got some universal ones from Checker/O'Reilly and then cut them to fit the shafts. Then used pipe clamps to hold them.
It was much easier than I thought. A simple snap ring and some big bearings. Get some quality grease for the cup if you can and wear gloves! That **** sticks to everything.
It was much easier than I thought. A simple snap ring and some big bearings. Get some quality grease for the cup if you can and wear gloves! That **** sticks to everything.
1 - Remove mufflers or Y pipe, depending on your exhaust brand/type (some have been able to do it without removing them)
2 - Remove wheel
3 - Remove half shaft nut on the wheel side
4 - Remove the 4 bolts holding the half shaft flange to the diff
5 - Remove strut from lower mount
6 - Pull half shaft off
Replace boots and reinstall
**NOTE: Going by memory here, might have missed something here and there, but the steps above are basically it ***
It has been a few years since I removed my half shafts. I have a RB catback. I just removed the muffler hangers and let the exhaust drop a couple inches. I don't think you'll be able to get the half shafts out with the exhaust intact.
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