Oil pan baffle. Camber plates?

What is the "Mazdaspeed Lower arm bar"?

 

How would you gap a stock ngk, it doesn't look like they can be gapped like a conventional plug. Or are you just using a different plug all together.


and can you run the spark plugs with no crush washer?

sorry for whoring your thread.

 

Yep you would have to use a different plug.

I hear that the Denso Iridium plug for the FC/FD has a 4mm gap (Leading=IRE01-27 trailing:IRE01-31), but I haven't used them so I don't know for sure. If that is the case, that might also be why people get 10+ HP just by using Iridium plugs. (which is something else that RarestRX can add to his list- see we are not post whoreing)

I use the crush washer. I couldn't say if it clears without it. I like knowing my plugs won't back themselves out (something that I have had problems with when using no crush washer on 22Rs).

 

Yo,


Lookit me, I'm at work! Heh.

Anyways, I want to keep the A/C. I don't want to gut the interior and make it a track only car. I wanna keep it streetable.

About the short shifter, I don't want to drop that much coin on one. I was looking at a Mazdaspeed used one on Ebay, but the price done blowed up.

The MS Lower Arm Bar is like the Cusco under A-Arm bar, but it goes around the A-Arm bushings. It's pretty nifty.

I definitely need to get the rear Camber adjuster bar and get an alignment. Hello K2RD!

I've kicked the notion around about the Mazdaspeed front engine mounts/tranny mounts/dif mounts...but am holding off for now.

Keep the suggestions coming!

Kevin
1989 GTUs "Getting new tires and rims soon too!"

 

How about Coilovers then?!

Steve

 

Yo,

Too expensive! It doesn't make sense to me have all the ride height adjustment, preload, damping, blah blah blah...when in reality I'll just set it once and forget about it.

Seems like a waste of $1400 or whatever.

The only cool thing is the TEIN little electronic control box dohickey where you can have different settings. I think that would be schweet.

Kevin
1989 GTUs "But again, that's $1700!"

 

Hmmm, really not much left to do. If money were no object, I'd say get a stand alone to fine tune (and eliminate the restrictive MAF in the process), and maybe start looking at some better flowing aftermarket intake manifolds. Can't think of anything else that hasn't already been said.

 

haltech F10, HKS ignition, 55mm Dual ida style throttle body with lower intake manifold, and porting. any brake upgrades? TII tranny, and diff. 3 row aluminum radiator, ss brake liines, upgraded fuel pump and lines. wideband O2. new radio and speakers (no subs) :-) new paint job, light wheels. solid tranny mounts. it never ends.......oh and if you do decide to port and open that engine.....might as well re open your wallet for the new internals, lol.

 

First I would get that rear strut bar. Then I would invest in a Torsen LSD to replace that viscous. Then I would try to replace every bushing that I can.

Main thing though, INSTALL AND TUNE THAT SAFC!!!! AND SHOW US THE DYNO NUMBERS!! okay i'm done.

 

that's actually my suggestion. . TUNE TUNE TUNE! with all of those mods I'm SURE you could gain power and drivability by tuning the SAFC
Lighter wheels sound like a good idea too.. reducing unsprung rotating weight works WONDERS... Find some nice 15's with low profile rubber on them and you'll have even nicer gearing, too...

 

There's also a company that makes carbon fiber driveshafts. Since you got the lightened flywheel, might as well get a lightened driveshaft.

 

http://acpt.com/applications.html

They made a CF driveshaft for FCs before that I saw on ebay I believe.

 

I didnt see a electric fan in your modlist. If your running light flywheel why not lighten the load on the front of the motor also?

 

My vote goes to:

Mazda Racing Short Shifter(you will need an S4 shifter *** tho)
FD alternator(Just to be excessive )
CP's Cage(Under 400 SHIPPED!!!!!! )
A CAI maybe like the one that is linked in my sig (Working on getting my sig back up it will take ~15 more minutes BTW the intake is less than the competition! and the DYNO sheet is on the way next week )
Light weight Seats(make sure they are SAFE!)
Weight Redux most deff(A/c PS ?? what the heck are those things? lol)
Icemark's advice(Plug gaps and CDI system )
Some Street Pullies from Marda Racing(drop some weight off of the stock ones )

Ok thats all I got for now. I will come back and post. I would have said True Duals But you already did the right thing IMHO

Santiago

PS- I am BACK biotchs

 

Yo,


Looks like some kind of short shifter is topping the list, I think an MS would be nice.

Unless my fan clutch dies, I'm sticking with stock on that bad boy.

When we put the clutch in I got to play with the stock driveshaft. I'm pretty sure it's made out of aluminum and pretty darn light. The only benefit from a CF driveshaft would be a safety one, but there is no way in hell I'd be putting out enough HP to worry about snapping a stock aluminum one.

Oh, and now I really must have an aluminum undertray peice now. I must have it!!

*grin*

Thanks for all the suggestions! I'll post dyno results when we get everything in and dialed.

Kevin
1989 GTUs "Gonna crack 160rwhp!"

 

Kevin- I would highly recommend the Mazdaracing Short Shifter. It is the one with the "shortest" throw on the market. A redix of ~60% of the throw from stock. Mazdaspeed's is only 25 IIRC. It comes with a bushing kit too. Man like a brand new church girl this one is.

Santiago

PS- Keep us posted bro I love the way you fight for the N/a's and GTUs'

 

Yo,


Santiago, do you have a link to their website? I saw them at Sevenstock but can't seem to find their site.

I think their pricing is pretty good too.

I would buy one of your CAI's, but I already picked up a Checkpoint Engineering one. Don't worry, I got it used for cheap. *grin*

I love fightin' for the NA's! 1/4 numbers are useless. Case in point, I just saw a Dodge Ram 4 x 4 turbodiesel pull a 12.7. Does that make it a "better" car than the Subaru STI that can only manage a 13.5?

Kevin
1989 GTUs "In a word...no."

 

hahaha! No prob about the CAI the Check point one is top notch too. I based ours on their design but tried to make it more affordable.

Anyway the link should be www.mazdaracing.com

Santiago


And no a Turbodiesel isn't COOL because it pulled a 12.7 but it will come in handy to pull the car to the track.

 

I would say porting, but unless you keep it very mild, your exhaust will need to be replaced.

I say e fan all the way. That is so much drag on the engine. Then short shifter. CDI box is good, and I would recommend NGK B8EGV leading an B9EGV trailing plugs to go with it. Im running those, and it made a big difference in my car.

Pulleys were noticable on my car, BUT, I had both the main and alt UD pulleys, and I had serious charging problems. If my car was idling with the lights and e fan on, it would drain the battery.....in about 15 min it wouldht have enough juice to start the car. I wouldnt recommend you buy them, but Im also not recommending you dont. Its more a matter of what sacrifices you will make, and if you have a bigger alt. an FD alt would probably be fine, but alas, I didnt have one.

Tuning will be key, but youre already set there with the hardware. Just spend some time in the dyno.

 

What pulleys did you get Adam? I got both of mine at the junkyard, both are noticably different than stock on diameter, and charging is fine. I guess I got lucky, but I also noticed a slight difference with the pulleys.

 

BDoty311- Got any pics?

 

No, if I ever get bored enough to go through the effort to take them off, Ill be sure to get them to you.

The alt pulley is off an old Subaru wagon, forgot where I got the crank pulley at.

 

oh I thought you got UD pullies from a Junker 7 lol

that is a good idea though.

 

I had the RB set, main and alt. Now I have the atkins serpentine set, but the pulleys are stock diameter. No more charging problems at all. I love it. They made my car idle better, but I could notice that it made the car rev a little slower. It just didnt seem to have the same sense of urgency.

Btw, I calculated the total underdrive over the stock pulleys. 35% at the alternator.