Yo,

1989 GTUs, 72K on the clock.

Engine & Exhaust:

- Ported upper/middle/lower intake manifolds, powdercoated gloss black.
- Throttle body mod, secondary throttle plates removed, coolant lines removed, ported and knife-edged.
- K & N Cone filter (I have Checkpoint Engineering's CAI getting powdercoated)
- 10mm Magnecore wires
- Pineapple Racing 6 port inserts
- Hose techniques silicone vacuum lines
- Mazdatrix True Dual exhaust, with new style Racing Beat canisters. Each rotor get it's own exhaust path the whole way back.
- Apexi SAFC-II (Black - not installed)

Drivetrain:

- SR Motorsports 9.5lb aluminum flywheel
- ACT Street/Strip clutch with HD pressure plate

Exterior:

- Rare GTUs/Turbo II factory front lip
- Hella H4 European headlights
- PIAA Superwhite 55W/65W bulbs

Rolling Stock and Suspension:

- 16 x 7 factory wheels powdercoated white
- Yokohama AVS Intermediates 205/55 - 16
- Tokico Illumina 5 way adjustable shocks
- Tokico matched springs
- Racing Beat Upper Stress bar (powdercoated black)
- Mazdaspeed Lower arm bar
- Bonez Stainless brake lines
- Bonez Stage I street/strip pads
- Energy Suspension urethane front A arm bushings
- Racing Beat sway bars
- Mazdatrix adjustable end links
- Racing Beat DTSS (Rear steer) Eliminators

Interior:

- Sparco 383 Suede steering wheel (330mm)
- Sled Driver custom FC aluminum pedals
- Leather shift/ebrake boots
- OMP Sirio suede shift ****

For all you smartasses, don't say "GT38 BB turbo w/Haltech!" *wink* And don't say "Fatty streetport!"

Anything that needs to be addressed my current mod list is lacking?

Lemme know!

Kevin
1989 GTUs "This should be interesting..."

 

dude i dunno, maybe a seat?

mike

 

Damn Rarest, I didnt know your mod list was so extensive. The only thing I think you are missing are a set of pulleys. They could help out, especially on the track.

 

Sounds like you're almost done..

rear strut bar? roll cage? =p

 

Yo,

Mike - About the seat...I was thinking of that, probably a Recaro SRD with some Schroth Rallye 4 harnessbelts. The mousebelts are junk at Thunderhill.

Bdoty - C'mon now, you think I'm all about the nice waxed exterior?! *grin* Actually, my car was pretty mild until Dana (Rotary Racer) went crazy on my car. My wallet is still recovering. Heh. About the pulleys, I hear they really aren't all that...not really worth the cost/trouble of them. But it is reaching that point where I can't do anything more. I'm waiting for Scarthcart to come in with, "75 wet shot!!!" *grin*

Neo - Yeah, I need to look at Rotorific's Mazdaspeed rear strut bar, I hear you don't have to chop holes in the strut towers. The rollcage might have to wait, I get enough attention from the police without have a huge cross bar visible through the rear hatch.

Now if I could just find some nice Mazdaspeed seats...

Kevin
1989 GTUs "Joking!"

 

Ya thats all I could think of, maybe while youre at it you could get an E-fan. All you really need is a "phatty streetport" and youre in n/a heaven.

"RarestRx, always with the coolest quotes."

 

Yo,


Yeah, if I go with a streetport I might check the viability of using RX-8 high compression rotors. Mmmm, higher compression....

Kevin
1989 GTUs "Turbophobe."

 

You are needing a MSD or the like (CDI) still

 

Yo,


I've heard good/bad things about ignition boxes, kind of more trouble than they're worth. Is the Crane Hi-6 still the one to get? The only real benefit I've heard for NA is better gas mileage, not so much HP.

Keep up the suggestions, my credit card is quivering in fear!

*grin*

Kevin
1989 GTUs "Do you take Mastercard?"

 

Gas mileage is only up 1 or 2 MPG, but the big advantage is that the spark stays consistent up until around 8500 (more than you will need).

The stock system starts showing spark break up around 6000-6500.

And you'll get longer life from the plugs (I know I only got about 10K miles on mine before they were shot when I didn't use a decent CDI system).

To get really more serious HP (10 HP on average) though, you'll need to find a plug with a bigger gap (like 3.5-4.0) to use with a ignition system, but I don't know of any larger gaped ring electrode plugs in the standard NGK line.

The crane is digital which makes more sense, but I can't say if it worth any more than the good ol standby the 6a.

 

Icemark, what do you mean by bigger gap? I've always thought could go deeper into the housing would make more power, because theres about a 1/4-1/2 cm gap between the spark plugs current position, and where it could safely be.

Dont know how long the plugs would last though...

 

YOU NEED A TURBO!!!!

 

when i called mazdacomp usa, they said the renises rotors were nearly half an inch thinner than 13b rotors. so rotors/apex seals and such cant be mixed and matched beteen them anymore...

D

 

Are you going to try and break my 151rwhp mark or what ?

 

Yo,



Man, I'm gunning for Wozzoom's 180!! But I think he was on crack at the time...*grin*

I dyno'ed before all these wacky mods at 140...so hopefully I can get it up into the 160's. We'll see.

Kevin
1989 GTUs "C'mon Supah AFC! Lean 'em out!"

 

short shifter

 

Street port!
*edit* whoops, that's not an option.

Lighter wheels.
I didn't see any form of front camber adjustment either; tweaking the front camber makes a noticeable difference in cornering ability. While you are at it, you could get a rear camber adjustment link, too. Street port!

 

i put a pole position in my 1st gen, its a huge improvement, i actually fit with a helmet now, and not as much sliding around

mike

 

Are you sure that they said the rotors couldn't be used? Because both Mazdatrix, and someone else have built older 13B engines with renesis rotors.

 

Why not port? That is your next best option to gain more power without squeezing or FI. How about a CF driveshaft? You don't have that!

 

I got it: BOOST. Best mod ever !

 

Yo,


Man, you got BACARDI!! It's the booze talkin'!!

*snicker*

Kevin
1989 GTUs "Say "No!" to cheater power."

 

Gap is the amount of space between the center conductor and outer ring or electrode. The stock gap is 2.0 mm (.08 in). With a CDI system you could go up to about 4mm (.15 in) for an increase in HP.

You could not just gap bigger, without a CDI or Jacobs system to augment the stock system.

The CDI will increase spark plug life.

 

im selling my RE-Amemiya short throw shifter in really good condition...with the shifter boot and upper bushing $325.00. email me for pictures since im selling my car.

badboy@kuentos.guam.net

Fred

 

Hey Kevin,
What all have you done in regards to weight reduction? Maybe we can think of a few things you don't really need?

Steve
"Just say no to A/C."