OK I have replace every vac hose on the engine,put hose clamps on all the lines running to the bac,new intake gaskets,new fuel injectors and grommets,ACV to lim gasket,new plugs,wires,totaly grounded the entire engine including the ECU,new alt,battery,new FPR,new fuel filter,disconnected the power wire going to the vac solenoid for the egr that was leaking,checked timing 55 times.compression is good.replaced BAC with known good one..The engine still refuses to Idle and dies when you turn the heater on to high?What have I missed?I have soaked the entire engine with carb cleaner and a squirt bottle of water the Idle stays the same? This is so fun!!! I just want my car to run the way it's is suppost to...The only mod the car has is the PD banjo bolt mod..could this be the problem?

 

Have you set the idle according to the FSM yet?

 

Are you sure your gettin good spark? Have you checked the coils? Just some Idea not really sure, I'm sure you've adjusted your TPS right?

 

well its idling right... so you have spark on the leading obviously... check the AFM that was my culprit... thats all i can think of for now... good luck

 

Idle is set with ISC jumpered TPS set a 1.00v with mm I'm gonna check the resistance on my spare set of coils and see if I can't find the pin out for the AFM.Again the car Idles but it's really lumpy!

 

1) AFM (MAF) bad or dead spot in the pot
2) Air pump line disconnected
3) MAP sensor bad or not reading correctly
O2 sensor bad (not really pertinent at idle, only S6 runs stoich after warm
4) clogged cat (will make anything run like crap)
5) low fuel line pressure or stock FPR is messed up

You seem to have spark and timing straight as well as Vacuum lines checked... so

6) ok ... last but not least .. the ECU could have a bad internal MAP sensor ... the reference for Absolute pressure is inside the stock computer, it reads altitude changes (climbing mountains) to adjust the reading of the engines MAP to find the density of the air ... also in the ECU could be bad solder joints or bad transistors for driving the injectors ...

Hope this helps

 

Heh ... almost forgot 1 important thing ...

If your leading coil goes bad (as it has for me once or twice on a few of the rexes I had) ... you will have the problem you are describing but ALOT less power to accelerate since stock difference in trailing timing is 14-20 degrees depending on the year of the car, most of the power would be coming from after TDC and would drastically mess up your idle since its normally 5deg ATDC stock.

Easy way to check leading spark is an inductive timing light ... snap-on makes one for like a bazillion dollars, but most the crap at advance works too ...

 

hey RacerXXXX I have a inductive timing with and advance **** on the back of the gun.I thought that why you checked timing you line up the yellow mark with the pointer clamped to the t1 plug wire.Then if you want to really check you can clamp L1 plug wir to see if the red lines up to the pointer.Please by all means correct me if I am wrong.Do I need to use the advance **** on the back of the gun to check my timing? 5deg 14-20deg?

 

hey RacerXXXX I have a inductive timing with and advance **** on the back of the gun.I thought that you checked timing you line up the yellow mark with the pointer clamped to the t1 plug wire.Then if you want to really check you can clamp L1 plug wir to see if the red lines up to the pointer.Please by all means correct me if I am wrong.Do I need to use the advance **** on the back of the gun to check my timing? 5deg 14-20deg?

 

double post sorry