marshall13B

iTrader: (5)

So I installed my new e-fan. 8 bucks from the junk yard for the taurus one, sweet.

I wired it to the ignition (black wire w/ white line) and it comes on in the "ON" position. Cool cool right? Well...

Something is loose, not sure what. The powerstearing, stereo, dome light, guage cluster lights, ect all loose power. I get the power back every now and then so I think its something loose. I was tugging on the wires trying to get more slack, but I dont think I messed anything up. I took a look at the wires going into the ignition and they all look okay (not broken, still soldered).

Oh yeah... something is constantly running, dead battery. No idea what. The remote wire to my amp (aftermarket) is in correctly still.

Any Ideas?

Icemark

Yeah, your electrical system (read alternator) can't keep up with the 40 amp draw of a Taurus E fan.

Furthermore you should be wiring it in with a relay. The factory ignition switch can't handle the load you are running through it. There are links on correctly wiring a Efan in the FAQ for FC sticky thread.

So, you need a bigger alternator, and you need a relay (and probably a thermostat) for the fan.

My88Se

iTrader: (10)

Only 40 amp draw? I could swear the taurus e-fan draws 60 amps?

Either way thats the problem.

Icemark

Actually up to 70 amps on startup of the fan

marshall13B

iTrader: (5)

Lol I thought it was a 12 amp system. So could I wire it to one of the empty spots in my main fuse box (located under the hood) with a X amp relay? And just to be sure, those come on with the car? Because I touched the fan's power wire to the MAIN relay, (while grounded into the batt.) and it turned on. I want to make sure it does what its supposed to.

And what are you talking about thermostat? I thought that was all mechanical???

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

the Taurus fan is Two speed..the lower Speed is Plenty to Cool the car.,and it doesn't suck as much Amperage..Look up Aaron Cake's E-fan Installation Page..it's a good one..

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Low speed will keep a N/A cool in the low 80's. It is also enough to run the A/C effectively.

High speed will *instantly* pop a 30 amp fuse.

You need minimum of 10 gauge wire, fused coming directly from the battery for the power.

I have mine wired with two relays, interconnected so that the low comes on with thermostatic control. High comes on with the A/C compressor. It is an either or configuration with low speed locked out when high is running.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

BTW, Icemark, what fuse would you recommend for the high speed on the taurus fan? I have the high and low speeds fused separately; low is working fine with the 30; I have the high speed circuit disabled until I determine what amperage fuse to use. Can you help with this? Also, is the 30 amp too high for the low speed? My clamp-on meter only reads ac amperage, not dc amps.

Thanks

Jack

Icemark

I would probably play hit and miss until I figured it out. Maxi blade fuses are available at most audio shops, as well as the socket fuseible links like our underhood fuse boxes use. I am partial to the Maxi's simply because they are easy to change.

I would try a 40 amp initially, and then more up in 10 amp increments until the fuse no longer blows (Probably 40-50 amps).

as far as the 30 amp for the low speed, I would think that is just fine.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Thanks Mark.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

I checked with the guys at Orielly's Auto today. The Taurus fan requires a 30 amp fuse for the low side and a 40 amp maxi-fuse on the high speed side, per the factory.


My question is why do they have two fuses?

marshall13B

iTrader: (5)

okay... so what do i do?

Killert2

ok so when using the Taurus fan do u use the low amp on a t2??

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

For the fan you need to minimum hook up the low speed with a relay and a temperature controller (thermostat). Here is a kit that has everything you need to make it work in one place.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku


They provide wiring diagrams or you can hook it up per this diagram taken from Aaroncake:

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Icemark-

What do you think about placing a diode across the fan terminals to suppress arcing on the relay contacts when the contacts break the circuit?

Icemark

always a good idea

marshall13B

iTrader: (5)

dang, those wiring diagrams aren't making too much sence. I dont really know how to read them to well. Uh... but is it pretty simple to figure out once I get the kit from Summit and look at the parts and diagram side by side?

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Here is the deal. It looks confusing if you are new to wiring. Wiring can be intimidating because lots of things are going on at once. Break it down as follows:

Once you get the parts into your hands, mount the switch and the relays. I will post a picture of where mine are mounted later today.

Hook each wire up, one at a time.
Do the fan wires first.
Solder each connection and use heat shrink tubing is best. If you can't solder, then use high quality crimped connections. Get a crimper and connector set at Autozone or Orielly's or other parts store.
Save the direct to battery till next to last.
Use #8 wire for the fan to relay and relay to battery.
Do the switched battery connection last.
You can use a wire-tap to connect to the switched wire on the green 6 hole plug located between the battery and the ignition coil.

You need a 40 amp fuse if you are using the high speed you need a 30 amp fuse if you are using the low speed. The fuse should be absolutely as close the battery terminal as possible. It is there to protect the wiring and keep your car from burning up. Here is a link to the exact fuse holder that I am using.
http://cgi.ebay.com/8-Gauge-ATC-Fuse...742.m153.l1262
It is important to get this right. You can buy a fuse holder locally that will hold a 40 amp fuse, but the main wire in the holder will not carry 40 amps and will overheat maybe even melting the insulation (bad).

Gather all your materials, start the project when you have plenty of time. Don't rush! Try to keep all your wires similar lengths so you can loom them up at the end.


You can do this if you are careful, do one step at a time and take plenty of time.

Let us know how it goes.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Depends on what speed you want the fan to run. 30 amp fuse if you are using low speed. 40 amp if you are using high speed.

marshall13B

iTrader: (5)

Okay so I'm not going to buy that crap from summit. Im just going to get a thermo-switch and 40a fuse from autozone. I also, cannot put this off any longer and wait for shipping. So is there anything else I need other than the relay and fuse? If I remember correctly someone said get an s5 alternator? Im trying NOT to spend too much money right now because I wanna buy a new car.

ramses666

iTrader: (1)

Your stock alternator is not going to support the load. you need a bigger one. S6 is 100 amps or better but needs a different pulley. Could you tell us why you need an electric fan to start with? Seems like your cheap electric fan is gonna cost you some $$$. The stock setup should be fine. What's the problem you are trying to solve with an electric fan anyway?

Ramses666

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

If the system is in good condition, his S5 alt will support the efan easily at low speed. Any faults or deficiencies will certainly be exposed. BTW, I can't imagine that the low wouldn't be enough in Everett WA.

It will need to be correctly wired.

I can tell you one good reason to have this particular efan setup: Ice cold air in traffic and at idle. Rapid cool down from heat soaked interior. I live in Dallas-it was 91* today with 60% humidity. The thing just works so well that if I end up having to upgrade the alternator to handle it, I will. So far, 14 + volts with high efan and the interior fan on max with headlights, stereo.

SFSG

ramses666

iTrader: (1)

If the car in his signature is his then he has an S4. He also has an aftermarket stereo amp. So I would say that NO! his stock alternator is gonna take an immediate dump with the extra load he is trying to put on his stock S4 alternator no matter how he wires it up. So now we see that his other electrical systems start to not work correctly. This ones a no-brainer - not enough amps from alternator. We need a voltage reading while all systems are on. I would bet its in the 11 volt range which will lead to multiple problems & failures. again...why put the e-fan in when you live in Washington? what are you trying to fix? I can understand the coolness required for more southern exposures - I live in Florida myself - He's just making it hard on himself by overloading the electrical system.

Ramses666

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Uhhh, profile shows 90 vert. That is an S5, so all the other stuff you are predicting is based on your mis-guess of an S4. I agree with your no brainer if an S4. If an S5, not so certain. If using the low speed and S5, pretty easy, but any weaknesses will be exposed.

BTW Ramsess666, did you ever pursue that RMT setup? That was a long time ago.

ramses666

iTrader: (1)

RMT? would that be the remote Turbo? No, I sure didn't. I did a motor swap and an S5 manifold upgrade and a custom port activation setup which all came out fabulous I might add. there are some recent threads on these. I just thought a remote turbo would eliminate some of the hassles with a turbo'ed NA swap, but everyone shut me down on that one... another hair-brained scheme in the circular storage bin!!

On a related note... the S5 alternator ain't all that either... its maybe 80 amps? on a good day? My big question is why the original poster child is going to all this trouble for an e-fan?

Ramses666