I just finished swapping my s5 motor into an s4 shell. I did the s4 wiring harness with s4 pressure sensor, afm, and tps, I rewired my injector clips to fit the s5 injectors everything is good and ready to go. I try to start it and it cranks but does not turn over any suggestions, Does it matter that Im using the s5 leading and trailing coils? also the bac is not connected because it still the n350 from the s5. Im in over my head already and Im ready to just trade my s5 motor for an s4 motor but i cant find any, please help me get this car running...

 

Please Help Need the car out of my drive way

 

i guess no one,,,

 

Some of us work all day long. Some don't.

You NEED to find out if you have spark and fuel.

A common problem about fuel, is that some versions of RX have their fuel lines rounted differently than other versions. Just saying that IF you have spark, then swap the fuel lines AT the engine and see if the car starts now or not. Or even better, buy a can of STARTER FLUID and spray for no more than three seconds into the airfilter. Then try to start the car. IF it momentarily starts, that indicates the fuel lines need to be swapped around. Then try again.

 

Did the starter fluid and it didnt turn on im guessing i have no spark, how do i check for spark?

 

Remove the sparkplug wire from one of the LEAD sparkplugs (lower plugs) and lay it so it is just opposite one of the studs on top of the shock tower. Spin the engine with the starter and look for spark from the sparkplug wire at the shock tower stud.

You turn the key to ON. When you do this, does your tach needle make a small movement??? Turn the key from off to on several times while watching the tach needle. The needle should make a small bump upwards or move. If no movement, probably no spark is occuring.

Do all or some of your Warning lights come on when key is put to ON? Volt gauge work? Key to ON do the turn signals work???? Key to ON.....do the wipers work??? Need answers to figure out if and where you do have power. I care not if headlights or side lights work. Those two matter not.

IF you jumper the yellow, two socket fuel pump check connector with a piece of wire..........does the fuel pump run continuously? or not? Should. Need answers.

 

So went out this morning and yes when I turn the key on and off the tach needle jumps up and down. Some of my warning lights work, My volt gauge work, turn signals work, wipers don't work. Fuel pump has direct 12v feed with an on/off switch. Lines by engine are getting fuel, I did the lower spark plug to shock tower and I got no Spark. So Im guessing the culprit is no spark, WHats the next step I can take? Does it matter that Im using S5 Coil Igniters? Thanks for your help.

 

Tach needle bouncing means the trail coil assy IS firing. Lead should be also.

Got a spare CAS from the old engine? Connect it to the harness in the car and put the key ON. Then spin the bottom gear on the spare CAS and see if you have spark on that sparkplug wire or not. You should be able to HEAR the spark and hear the injectors clicking.

The coil assy's are the same. Series four or five.

List of things that work mean your getting pwr from the ignition key to the IG1 buss in the interior. That's good.

Look at the two fuel lines going to the engine on the left side of the engine. Find the one that comes off the fuel filter. Now you know which is the pressure line. So go to the OTHER fuel line which has to be the return line. Pull it off the hardline on the engine. Put a hose on that hard line and the open end of that new line into a container. Now go to Start with the key. When you do that on a normal engine the fuel pump should run as long as the key is HELD to Start. Your car is different. But get the pump running whatever way you can and when it runs the return line should pour fuel into the container. If it does not,,,,,,,,,,,the fuel lines might be crossed. Swap 'em around if so.

Again, tach needle bumping indicates the trail coils are working and most likely also the lead plugs. Do the CAS thing I mentioned if possible to double check. No spinning of the starter......just key On and spin the bottom gear on the CAS. Does not have to be real fast. Just two or three hz a second or so. will do it easily.

 

Ok i dont have a spare CAS so Idk what i should do about that. A local Rotary shop told me that if the AFM is bad it wont have spark. So Im going to see if I can find a spare afm from a buddy. If that doesnt work Im just oging to bite the bullet and shed the $150 to have him do my wiring. The only bad thing about that is Ill have to wait till next week.

 

While not probable, it is possible the leading coil is not receiving battery voltage so if you want to remove another issue from the list of things to check you could take a multimeter, set to voltage dc, and check for battery voltage on the black/yellow wire at the leading coil with the key to "ON.". Also, is the leading coil fastened snuggly to its mounting bracket and the mounting bracket bolted to the fender? This is how the unit is grounded.