s5 na with S5 turbo swap, small street port.

couple of diagnostics questions:
after setting tps and ignition car seams to idle at about 2k at cold start and then drops to a erratic 1k idle that bounces. all emissions have bin removed. all vacuum hoses are new. also seam as tho at times it will idle fine and others it wont, especially when i have it in first gear with clutch in. any ideas?
ill have to post a video.

i have a n374 so check engine does not work. i plugged in a s5 na ecu and it gave me engine codes:

25:Solenoid Valve (Pressure Regulator Control)
30:Solenoid Valve (Split Air Bypass)
33:Solenoid Valve (Port Air Bypass)
34:Solenoid Valve (Idle Speed Control, BAC)
38:Solenoid Valve (Accelerated Warm-Up System)
40:Solenoid Valve (Purge Control)
41Solenoid Valve (Variable Dynamic Effect Intake (VDI) Control)

i plugged in the bac valve but didn't check codes after, it seamed to have helped a little (the bac valve)

once its reved it has power and runs well. just lower rpms are rough, would i maybe need to chip with rtek or knight sport?

would these codes make it so that the engine doesn't run right?

1 more, i kinda hear a whining noise coming from the engine when i rev it, could it be my turbo? seams as tho its getting louder and louder. how do you know when the turbo is blown?

any help would be great thanks
shocker

 

Wouldn't these codes show up after removing the emissions anyway? Plenty of people's cars idle just fine without emissions. The BAC valve should never be removed. (It helps a lot with your idle.)

When you say "lower RPM's"... How low are you talking?

The whining noise could be a number of things. Check for a vacuum/boost leak, or the bypass valve (Stock BOV or whatever it's called)... Also, check your turbo for excessive shaft play. (Side to side / in and out.)

 

Are you setting the TPS w/the engine running or off?

 

thanks for the response's guys

and yes im guessing they will since the sensor aren't detected but will they make the check engine come on?

there is some codes that wont throw a check engine light right?

as for the idle your saying the rough idle is not because of the emissions removal huh? i see

and as for the noise i was hearing i checked the turbo like you said it it does have side to side play but nun forward and back. i guess it is my turbo it is getting oil btw must be just worn.

 

i set it with the car off after warming up the engine with the ignition on. i use the light method. set the screw in between where both the lights are on or off.
thanks

 

its got a rb down pipe and resonator 3 inch all the way back to a muffler, also like i said with my own street port. would running rtek make it run better in general?
is the rtek have a different map then the stock ecu?

 

The rough idle may have something to do with the emissions removal... Did you remove the thermowax and dashpot? You probably want to keep those, along with the BAC valve. It may have a bit to do with the street port, too... Depending on how "rough" the idle is. I'd say a combination of these things. Be sure the timing, TPS, and idle are all set properly.

I don't have a lot of experience with RTek. Here is their site, though: http://digitaltuning.com/index.php?pid=rtek7

 

yo, i have not touched the TB so im guessing both of those are still there. same with the bac valve, its still there as well. ill have to set my idle, that i have not did. thanks for the pointer.

another thing like i was saying. idles at about 1k and about 2k with clutch peddle pushed in. i remember reading about a clutch switch, could that have anything to do with it? cuz its a na s5 with a trubo ii s5 trans. anyone know what the wiring should look like?
thanks

 

hello there,
today i took the turbo off and i think i might of found out what was making the noise i was talking about. looks like there is shaft play, and i think it might be a bit too much.
also the wheels have damage. ill post up some pics so you guys can check them out if you like. i ordered a rebuild kit from rotaryaviation.com hoping to just be able to replace the new parts but looks like im going to have a lot more work then that. also kinda looks like the new parts are a little different then the old such as bearings and the thrust bearing.

from what i read if i were to get a new wheel i would have to balance the turbo, is that true?

bearing doesn't have the grove, would that lubricate the same?

and same with the thrust bearing, looks like grove isn't as wide.
would that effect oil flow?

does anyone have some compressor wheels they would like to sell?

thanks

 

couple more pics

 

more..

 

more.. :P

 

anyone? any input?
thanks