Anubis06

gotta couple questions for ya:

1st: is there a chime for the doors when they are open or when the lights are left on? cuz if there is...mine does not work! wats the solution to that?

2nd: idiot display, only things that work or give off warning or when i put my car to on is.....welll NOTHING! now when the car is cranked and running, the only lights that do pop up when commanded to are: doors, no gas (thankgod), washer, hatch and emergency brake. is that normal?

3rd: my splir air pipe to my s4 turboII fell off. yea, it just fell off! annnnnnd wondering if that is a problem. saw that it came from the side of the motor next to the egr and wondered where should route that back to? and if i remove the rest of the pipe, who sells block off plates for that if it should in fact be blocked?

4th: my car does not idle. ... JUST KIDDING. im not asking yall that. ive read enough threads to figure out the problem. the only thing is that in the beginning, (cold starts) it revs to 3000 then dies (unless i blip the throttle) and then upon being warmed up, it bounces. there is a vacuum line that is bothering me thats just sitting there. upon alot of other weird electrical wires that SHOULD be connected however, i have yet to know where they go. thankfully, there are some fc owners around here that can help.

5th ( and hopefully last): my water temp gauge does not work. should i just change the sensor and if it is. where it is located? i thought i might as well ask since im asking so many damn questinons. u dont have to answer it. but will mean alot if u do. (meaning i dont have to search throught that whole damn haynes manual to find it. :p)

ok thats it i think. sorry for the long post. i await ur replies. PEACE


oh... as for that chiming/idiot cluster deal. the previous owner DID install a turbo timer. jsut wondering if that had anything to do with **** not working. ok im done now

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

You should know that the last two or three days the forum has been broken again, and it just came up sometime tonight.

You should also know that bumps aren't allowed in the tech section. A good practice if you want more attention is be patient, but also think about your problem after posting, try more things, then come back with more information.

I think I can help a little with your questions.

1) My '87 TII only chimes when the key is in the ignition and a door is open, and it has been sporatic somewhat because of untraced electrical issues. I have bigger fish to fry right now, however, strangely, the minor electrical problems have gotten better in the first couple months of my ownership, which started in June of this year.

2) You said which ones work, but which ones are missing? That would be easier, for me at least, because I don't have the idiot cluster completely memorized yet.

3) If you have any catalytic converters that aren't hollowed out you should keep the split air pipe and air pump. Yes, there are blockoff plates sold for that, as well as for a number of other rather useless emissions parts (unless you use your car where they test for emissions requirements) and the BAC valve and OMP, the first of which I'd recommend keeping and OMP removal has its good and bad points. In my case, the only things keeping me from pulling the OMP is 1 it works ok for now, 2 I have so many other things to do, and 3 premixing would probably not save my previously neglected engine any life time.

4) lol, good one. bouncy idle I believe is often due to misaligned TPS and or vacuum leaks, I forget exactly if it's just one, but my car had both problems when I got it and I fixed them, now it idles better, but not without some help. it still needs a lot of work including grounds and ultimately needs a rebuild due to worn seals (low compression). both are pretty easy to check for and fix unless the vac leak is in a small line under the UIM.

5) these cars have several plugs that shouldn't be connected to anything. some are for options you don't have, some are for diagnostics. other reasons may also exist. of course, maybe you DO have things disconnected that shouldn't be, pictures are often helpful in such situations.

as always, when anyone does anything to a car, pretty much anything is possible, especially when these things are closely related (ie electrical work with electrical problems). telling/showing us how the turbo timer is/was installed may help, as well as telling us what kind of device.

Anubis06

i have a stock cat that for the most part does NOT do its job. it has a big hole where the split air pipe used to be. im removing emissions. but my OMP cuz...i dont feel like premixing all the time. and it works. my friend broke the braccket for my air pump soo...that thing needs to come out. umm..the lights i told that DOES work...are the only ones. basically...everything else...DOES NOT WORK that i know of. idle...(PSHH...this has been a beaten down topic lol) ill come up with pics later this weekend. thanks very much speedoflife. any other input from any member is greatly appreciated. rotary4life!

Icemark

Bumps deleted. Bumps are forbidden here in the 2nd gen tech section. Why do you think that you are any more important than any other member?

Warning beep when door is open and the key on, or door is open and lights are on.

If it is not beeping, replace the main board in the CPU

The warning lights should be off when the car is running unless you have a problem. They all should be ON when the key is in the ON position, but the engine is not running. If it does not work this way, then again you have either a bad main board in the CPU or a bad clock warning panel that needs re-soldering.
What are you really asking? If you don't have the pipe, your emissions system and cat probably are not working correctly and you will burn out your main cat.
bad or mis-adjusted TPS (covered only about 1000 times already- you may wish to search before posting next time).
probably either an unplugged sensor or badly corroded screws on the back of the gauge
has nothing to do with anything.