There is no bubbles comming up but my coolant is going some where,I put a bottle on the end of the overflow hose and drove around for 30 min with nothing ending up in the bottle,and no bubbles.IDK Please rotorgods Ill do a dance iff you make that god awfull buzzer quitThis was after I put a hose clamp on each end of the overflow tank hose(thought it might not be sealed verry well) . I know no one wants to hear this but im thinking about putting bars headgasket repair in it to see if it helps seeing as I dont have the money for a rebuild.

 

Update:

So I bought a new cap and 50/50 mix also put a new alt belt on it since my old one was shaky and the water pump probably didnt spin right.

I drove my car for 30 min or so then parked it, popped the hood, checked for over flow...nothing. Listened for peculation...nothing. Looked at top rad hose, it had air in it. Let the air out (very small amount). Drove about 4 miles on the street few hours later, buzzer came on. Parked, more air in the hose and found that rad (stock S5 junk) has water along the top where the fiberglass meets the metal fins

NOTE: I let the car idle while hot and no bubbles, ran it for 5 minutes or so.

My NA ran fine with a blown coolant seal, never even knew it was blown since it never smoked or leaked but it WAS eating coolant inside. It would foul the plugs and creat huge pressures and hot air pockets in the cooling system. Even exploded a stock rad once.

Is my motor suffering the same thing?
How can I flush and rid of all air in my coolant system?

 

Do a normal flush and run the car without the cap until it heats up. That's all do to get air bubbles out. If you keep getting open pockets of air in the hoses that's no good.

Are you sure there are no leaks anywhere?

 

I am suprised as hell no one has mentioned a thermostat. I had the same thing happen and it was my thermostat. It wasnt allowing the coolant to flow properly and for the longest while the temps stayed pretty much normal but there was way too much damn coolant in the overflow tank. Change thermostat and maybe watermpump and then see what happens.

 

lol ya. But then again, the thermostat should of been the 1st thing to replace.

 

Had the same problem. was leak in hose from filler neck to catch tank. water could go one way but not back.

 

Well considering the motor only has about 5K on it (fresh rebuild) everything is new. This is of course assuming my builder DID indeed put only new stuff on the block.

The first time I checked the coolant I also checked the thermostat. (let me know if I did it right)

Started the car one morning (cold, after having lost coolant the night before, obviously still low the next day) let it idle with cap off, topped it off. Once the car warmed I turned heater on and after about a minute (i think thermostat opened) the coolant went back into the motor and started blowing warm air from vents in the car. Is this a sign the thermostat is doing its job?

I hope my alum rad comes in soon so I can flush the entire system. The filler neck is also brand new.

 

^^ Yes, that's the sign of thermostat doing it's job.

 

could a faulty (busted) radiator cause hot air in the coolant system?

 

Dude, change your thermostat. It costs 5 bucks and will take you ten minutes max. Dont assume he used a new one. The thermostat will still flow if it is bad, just not well depending on how bad it is. I drove 2700 miles on my thermostat doing this from Idaho to NC. I thought nothing was wrong with it and pulled the buzzer out from the dash. It overheated the next day. Heat worked and all.

 

Derek i'm here at your house and you don't have kool-aid.. Wtf!?

 

I will def invest a few more bucks before I come to the conclusion that I might have a bad coolant seal. Will change thermostat, radiator, flush it, maybe water pump...

I cant say for sure what I'll do if it's got a bad seal... anyone wanna buy it? LOL

 

BS. Adding coolant to water raises the boiling point of the resulting solution to above that of water.

The opposite - elevation lowers the boiling point of water. Higher pressure increases it, which is the reason we have pressure caps on the cooling system.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system3.htm

-b

 

So I now did a search for blown coolant seal and found some good info.

I'm gonna try to burp the system the right way:

Jack up the front, use funnel on filler neck to keep coolant in, let car run til T stat opens, add coolant to funnel as needed, rev a bit, let it sit, rev some more and PRAY TO GOD IT WORKS!

 

dude change your thermostat before you waste your time with anything esle. Anything else is bullshit. Follow step one and then see where that gets you. You are scared of having a bad motor and you want that fear to go away so your adoing everything backwards. Five dollars, ten minutes. Then do the test.

 

Well I just wanted to check the very minor first, hoses, clamps, burping the system etc before I started removing things and buying stuff I know is new.... and




FOUND THE PROBLEM... I THINK...


I drove the car for 15 min after topping it off then let it idle for about 25 min, the level of coolant satyed pretty much the same, let it idle some more with the cap on this time and turned the car off. Waited for something weird to happen (dont know what LOL) that's when I heard a very faint hissing sound. Put my ear to it and it sounds like hot air was seeping from the part of the rad where the fibergalss top meets the metal fins. this would prob explain the water along the trim of it.


Now with this being said, will this small pinhole leak create hot air pockets of pressure in the cooling system. Dumb question I know but I asked it

 

Seems to me you would have seen water coming out of a cracked radiator top. I've seen a bad radiator tank (my fault, leaned on the top of the radiator one too many times and ruined it). If it's cracked water will flow out of the crack if there's a full radiator and the engine is hot. If it's cracked, buy a aftermarket radiator. Mazdatrix sells 'em for much cheaper than the stock one or buy a KOYO aluminium one IF your sure that is the problem. Bit more costly. Work wonders though in Tx.

You could just remove the thermostat and go drive it like that at no cost to you. If the problem goes south, get another stock thermostat.

Not supposed to say this, but if you pull the wire off the low water level sender, and put a ground on the wire that attaches to the sender, the alarm/buzzer will not sound off no 'mo.

Not a good overall fix, but will keep you sane if you can't stand that infernal buzzer. Just to keep you sane. Not a FIX.

 

Yeah I'm awaiting my AM radiator with fans...

As far as the buzzer, I could ground the wire but I like that its annoying, gives me initiative to pay attention to it LOL

 

I just had the same problem come out of nowhere and the car was going slowly the the H position. I changed the thermostat, changed the cap, and nothing. Then after searching and reving the engine fron the engine bay, I noticed when I was reving it hard, a small leak was coming out of the heater hose that went connected to the motor. I replaced the hose, and now, no more coolant of creeping temp issues.
Check your hose, Thats how I was loseing my coolant. my 2 cents n-e-ways

 

I had this problem after i changed some hoses on my coolant overflow bottle cap. Try swapping the hoses on the lid around, it looked like it didnt matter what way it went in, but it did. I swapped em and the coolant was fine after that.

 

Indeed I will check all of those things after new rad is in.

For now it rests in my garage

 

What you have is most likely the coolent seals are shot in sense that the compression of the engine is escaping into the coolent system, I'm guessing.

Does your coolent smell odd?, try running her rich as hell.

When I had thin oil it'd smoke, low pressure and the coolant wouldnt travel back into the system and eventually would overflow after a few weeks.

 

change the thermostat . . .

 

Does the hose going into the bottle go down all the way? if not then your just gonna pump coolant in the bottle and never be able to get any out.

edit:

http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1/page_2420_36

This thing works keeps coolant level above the top of the motor so it purges out all the air. I have been thinkin about buy one.

 

I did the bubble test several times now and I'm 90% sure the seals are fine.

The coolant doesent smell like anything. Actually, even when I drive the car for a while, I dont smell anything...

LOL I owuld but no need, I have verified that a new thermostat was indeed put in at the time of rebuild. I would hope so since I paid nealy $3K for everything...


The hose is factory and yes it goes to the bottom of the bottle. I actually will pick this tool up since we can use it at the shop. I think it's a wise investment...