VANHALEN

iTrader: (3)

I don't know if this is your first car but, all cars have pressure on upper radiator hose.
As liquid boils it builds pressure.
The pressure depends on the rdaiator cap. That's it. Nothing else relieves or pressurizes than your simple radiator cap. Nothing else. Nothing fancy. The setting in the spring determines the pressure in your cooling system. The radiator cap acts as a release valve set to open at the maximum pressure point. When the fluid pressure inside the radiator exceeds the spring psii, it forces the valve open, allowing heat to escape and excess coolant fluid to overflow into the tanks on either side of the radiator. Once the radiator cools down, the coolant fluid in the overflow tanks gets sucked back into the pump.

If your car is operating at normal temp, don't worry about it.
I have had a Stant thermostat get stuck on me, that was the last time I bought a Stant. Now I buy only OEM thermostat. It's only a few dollars more but if you look at it side by side, it a BIG difference.
Every couple years, I change out the thermostat and radiator cap the same time I change coolant.I know it's an overkill changing thermostat every 2 years but, a Mazda OEM thermostat is only $25.

yammo7013

It isn't my first car but my first rotary owned this car for almost 2 years and boy its been a learning experience.. but I know its to much pressure cause of. The OEM clamp on the top hose leaks coolant I know those are crap but it hasn't done that since I got this engine..which is weird to me will I'm gonna go through every part in the cooling system to figure this out..

VANHALEN

iTrader: (3)

You need top throw away those OEM clamps unless you replaced them with new OEM clamps. They're 25 yrs old. Imagine how many times it's been removed. You need to get a good quality worm gear clamp.

yammo7013

Ok well one more question I guess... isn't to much pressure bad for the coolant seals?

VANHALEN

iTrader: (3)

Coolant seals are in between grooves in the housings...sandwiched together. Impossible.
Your hoses would burst if there was THAT much pressure. It's just heated liquid.

You have heater hoses , BAC hose still attached correct? Those are all pressured liquid. IF there was SO much pressure, all your pressured lines would be leaking, NOT just top radiator hose.
If you still have the OEM clamps on there, I'd get good quality clamps and change them all.

yammo7013

Ok sounds good I'll do that then thanks

yammo7013

I think I finally found what was wrong the thermostat was installed the right way but the jingle pin wasn't at the 2 o clock position and I knew when the thermostat opened cause alot of bubbles came out so I'm letting it kool down then gonna start back up and burp it again if need

NCross

iTrader: (18)

Have you driven it with the heater on full blast? Lots of air pockets are in that area. Also check your water pump weep hole for evidence of seal failure.

yammo7013

Yess I have and seems fine now actually since I moved the thermostat. Hoses felt a little tight I let the radiator cap off a little bit and I heard air until coolant came up. So I think that was my problem thermostat jingle clip has to be at the 2 o clock position. When I took it out it was like at 6 or 7...lol

VANHALEN

iTrader: (3)

The thermostat has nothing to do with your thinking of excessive pressure. Thermostat opens as coolant gets hot and closes when cold.
That jiggle pin is for air to escape. If your car was overheating, I would point towards a bad thermostat among others. Some thermostats don't have that jiggle pin.

yammo7013

Well the pin has to be at highest point cause that's where air goes right? Well when I installed it the thermostat was at 6 o clock. I didn't know the pin had to be at somewhere at the highest point. I read in the FSM that it has to be at the 1 or 2 o clock position so that's what I did. I already burped the system now pressure is good. Obviously there was air trapped inside in the thermostat housing that couldn't get out.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Air in the system would lead to overheating, which has been unmentioned to this point, but would have nothing to do with pressurizing the hoses.

NCross

iTrader: (18)

Most people drill holes if it doesn't have a jiggle pin. Air in the system will raise pressure. Air expands more than coolant so if the air collects at the thermostat it will probably keep the stat from opening all the way.

Nick_d_TII

iTrader: (6)

Pitchurs for thred.

Models may vary slightly.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

So the clutch fans are different on Turbo models? I never knew that, I thought they were all interchangeable.

Should I be getting the blades from a Turbo fan and swapping them onto mine? I assume the clutch engages at the same temp for both.

I bought my clutch fan off an na at the bone yard.

I honestly didn't think it mattered or was a big deal, everyone selling them lists them for useable on NA or Turbo.

NCross

iTrader: (18)

All s4-s5 fans and clutches should be interchangeable. Other series have a different water pump bolt pattern.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

No, they aren't.
The series have different "snout" diameters, I believe the S5 is bigger and will fit the S4 but not the reverse.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

What's the difference in the angle of the fan blades supposed to do? I'm going to be using an NA clutch-fan on my Turbo.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

The angle of the blades- properly called "pitch"- determines the direction of airflow ("pusher" or "puller") and the volume of air the fan will move.

VANHALEN

iTrader: (3)

Look at a room cooling fan and see.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

Well the question is do I have to worry since mine is NA, andmy car is turbo, or is it not a big deal, we're talking a 6 degree difference which isnt much IMHO.

Edit - I must of read wrong, its saying newer model and old model, which I assume old is s4 and new s5 , if that's correct then all s4 fans are the same and all s5s are the same, no difference between NA/Turbo but I am still not sure since it shows different cooling capacities, between the two so maybe it is NA/turbo , the thermo types are different as well.

Can anyone clear up my confusion?

RXSpeed16

iTrader: (41)

Dead giveaway is the "previous radiator" is copper tank/copper core. That's an FB rad. FC's all came with plastic end-tanks. As everyone has told you before, all FC thermoclutches/fans are the same.

And if you're going to make an assumption that "6 degrees isn't much". Do you have a background in fan design that allows you to interpret that measurement? You have no idea what you are talking about, so please try to stop posting wrong information.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

That's not what I said because they aren't.
S4 and S5 have different thermoclutches to fit the different waterpump snouts.

RXSpeed16

iTrader: (41)

I know the snout is a different diameter, but is there actually a recessed area on the thermoclutch?
I remember it being flat. Is that not the case?

clokker

iTrader: (2)

No it isn't, there is a recess.