hey guys.. i just rebuilded my engine. but the car is been asking me for coolant every three days.. i have tried to bleed the air bubles... and nothing.. i have a 13 pressure coolant cap on top ( where the thermostat housing is ) and a pressure cap from mazda on the radiator neck. As we all know mazda is ghey and chooses to have two outlets for some gay reason.. so my question is.. should i block the outlet on the raditor? and run the thin hose that goes to the overflow tank from the top outlet down to teh overflow tank? i been looking under teh car for any leaks and nothing. So i need help i would really aprreciated if you guys have any ideas.

 

 

should i block off the red circle? and run the hose like the pic where those 4 dots are ?...? also im changing the coolant this weekend so can anyone help me with a link for a good way to bleed the coolant system with out getting any air bubbles?

 

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Looks like an automatic there...before the air-bleeder recall. Anyway,

You have to be absolutely sure that there are no leaks. If it's taking 2-3 days for the add-coolant buzzer to go off, then the leak is so small that that coolant is evaporating before it hits the ground. CHECK the radiator hoses, thermo wax hoses, and around the water pump for a white-crusty water stain. Also check the end tanks on the radiator, the hoses to and from the heater core, and the hoses connected to the BAC valve.

If you don't find any signs of evaporated coolant, then you may have to consider the possibility that the leak could be a bad engine water seal.

As for your hose routing, you should only have 1 pressure cap. It looks like you have the pressure cap on top of the engine with the overflow hose going to the overflow tank. This is correct. What connection are you referring to on the top of the radiator? (The red circle)

 

That small hose goes to the overflow tank.
Hot coolant expansion is stored there to recover as the engine cools down.
I don't see the tank in the pic.

It looks like your coolant is not recovering.

BTW- nice clean engine.

 

i cannot consider a blown seal since the engine was just rebuild, and i havent taken it past 3500 rpms... also i dont have any white smoke at start up. now the picture on top is not the picture of my car it was just to give you guys an example... i will look this weekend to make sure i dont see any leaks in any of the hoses. you said im only suppose to have one pressure cap? what about the radiator cap?is that mean that one should be not pressured?

 

by the way on the pic where the 4 little circles are, you can see the hose going down to the overflow tank.. but on mine i never put the hose there i always connected it to the outlet that comes of the radiator.. should i just switch the hose and put it like it is on that picture? and just leave the outlet on the radiator unblocked?

GUYS THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS HELP!

 

Yes I believe there should only be one pressure cap, the one on the thermostat filler neck, where the tube is that goes to the overflow bottle. If you have a pressure cap somewhere esle, where is the coolant going to go once the cap opens?

 

You NEED the overflow tank at the end of that hose.

 

Im not exactly sure what you mean by the outlet from the rad, but you need the hose going to the overflow tank. This is used as a resavoir for coolant, when the cap opens under too much pressure, coolant goes into the bottle. When the system needs more coolant, it sucks some back in.

 

Ahh, You should have mentioned that the picture of the engine bay was not your car!

If your 88 has the radiator cap on the top of the radiator, run the hose from this location to the overflow bottle. Do NOT use the fill cap located on the engine. The one on the engine should be blocked off. Do not use a pressure cap on the engine.

 

This is a picture of my engine bay. NOTE im talking about right under this cap. ( which i bought in discount auto and its a pressure cap) should this one be a pressure cap? and you mean i have to get the hose that is connected to the radiator outlet here! instead of where it is right now?

 

You see the little nipple underneath that cap? There needs to be a hose running from there to the overflow bottle. Yes, that should be a pressure cap. Another thing, do yourself a favor and go buy an OEM Mazda cap, and throw away that one from the auto store. They do not work in 90% of the cases.. Use only Mazda cooling system components in your car.

 

This is where i have always connected the hose.. since when i bought the car the hose was connected here i thought thats where it went ( the cap on the radiator is from mazdaspeedperformance ) this line goes to the overflow tank... so what i have to do is take it out from it and put it where the nipple on the picture above is? also do i have to block this nipple or just let it there? also should i keep this mazda pressure cap here? or shoudl i switch them and buy a non pressure cap?






P.S. im still alil lost about the differences of pressure caps and where do they go? and if i need 2 of them? if i only need one where does the other non pressure one go and where could i buy it? does a non pressure cap have that spring and seals on the bottom liek these 2 caps have?

 

so i can just switch them right? since the one on the radiator is from mazda oem. or should i buy 2 mazda oem caps? one for the radiator and one for the filler neck? does mazda sell a pressure and a non pressure caps? also the radiator is not a stock one ... i bought it from discountradiators.com and tehy freaking gave me an automatic radiator with two nipples sticking out on the bottom.. some mechanics told me not to worry about that but im just making sure..

THANX AGAIN GUYS!@!!

 

No. Stop right there. You have it hooked up correctly. The hose to the overflow bottle should attach to the top of the radiator.

The problem is the cap in the first picture. That cap is a pressure cap and once it opens, coolant will spill out onto the engine. BLOCK THIS HOSE and replace the pressure cap with a NON pressure cap.

 

Ah..I see you have the dual cap configuration. Disreguard what I said before.... Listen to wozoom. SHould there even be that nipple there on the thermo housing?

 

You mean block the metal nipple from the filler neck with like a vaccum cap? and put a non-pressure cap in there?

ALSO csan someone please send me a link or something cuz i thought that was the problem but i dont know where to buy these NON-PRESSURE caps.. i dont mean to be an *** but does evryone else agree with WOZZOOM? thanx man

 

Also i drove the car for about 10 minutes checked under the car for any leaks or any kind of coolant spills and nothing.. should i try again? this weekend im draining all of it but before i do this i wanna make sure evrything is fine.

 

That's exactly what I mean. When that pressure cap opens, you have a leak...

Where to get one?
http://www.mazdatrix.com/b8.htm

You need the flat cap...part number 15-2050-KF01

 

Scroll down to the center of the page and read what mazdatrix has to say about the cooling system over the years, and try and decide on which one you have. There you can order any and all things you will need..

http://www.mazdatrix.com/b8.htm

*edit* - Beat me to it

When a pressure cap opens, it is letting coolant escape, to the overflow bottle. If you have a pressure cap on the top of the thermo housing filler neck, and nowhere for that coolant to go, its just going to leak. Thats why at 1st I was confused by seeing no hose on the nipple of that housing. There isnt even supposed to be a nipple there on that year FC (right?..anyone?) But yes, you need a non-pressure cap where there is no tube to the overflow bottle, and a pressure cap where there is a tube to the filler bottle. Easy enough? You should probably block off that nipple, or get the right piece, unless I am wrong on that.

 

That nipple is the 1986/early 87 design. Before they started putting the pressure cap on the top of the radiator. The recall for the "Air bleeder system" replaced that piece with a non-nipple version.

Since Peruvianrx7 has a rebuilt engine, I'll assume that the engine block came from an 86-87.

 

actually no... umm i thought the engine was an 88? when i did the rebuild teh rotors had the E letter on them... i wonder what the previous ownerd did to it

 

that was the configuration i had when i first got the car. also the car said it was manufactured in 88.