arttu

Reading this forum has been helpful source with our non-turbo rx-7, but I think we need more help with this. My dad bought an RX-7 possibly from it's 1st owner, car was originally bought and registered 1988. But local Mazda reseller told it's 1985 model and made in 1986. The car has been out of use for maybe 2½ years because it has had some problems (long starts, wet spark plugs at least what I heard). So it wasn't in perfect condition, and time and nature has probably done some more damage to it (somebody had reversed his/her trailer hitch into bumper of this rx-7).

Of course the battery was really dead, and it didn't start up even with extra current, but by towing it did start up. Now it has better battery, and if it's going to start, it'll sometimes start even with no gas pedal pressed in couple seconds. Hmm, I've got so many little things I would want to clarify. For example, what should I say about what model this car is? I think this is a GXL, but it doesn't have Cruise Control nor A/C. Hopefully I'm at least on the right section. ?/S4/S5? FC I think?

Some electrical stuff has been fixed. Oil pressure meter wasn't working, I'm not sure was it even a wrong kind of connector or what, but now it's in place and working. We've also inspected most visible connectors in the engine bay for corrosion and cleaned them. Turn signals we're behaving oddly. Emergency signal would not light those sight turn signal lights, but If u would turn to left or right, both side turn signals blinked, weird? Now those are working normally, not sure if re-soldering ground in front-left turn signal was the solution, but now it works.
Btw, does RX-7 normally have extra switch for rectractable lights? I mean it has the up-down switch on the left, but it won't work if the on-off switch in the center console is on and it's orange light is on.

It possibly has some bad seals, because it makes lot of pressure and fills the overflow bottle, and it's a time for rebuild. But of course please tell, if u know other, maybe easier solutions if it is not bad seals. And if even worse, maybe the rotor housings or something is broken and leaking pressure. It starts little after the engine is started and it's getting hotter, and eventually it makes a lot of pressure and it has to be shut down because it leaks so much water from the overflow bottle. Earlier it was possible to take off the rad cap while "idling", but now it's pouring lots of water out, so it can't be done very long. And of course the "Add Coolant" light and buzzer go on after a while.

But other problems, that we would like to get fixed, before removing the engine. So sometimes it starts very nicely, sometimes it needs gas to start. Some problems have been probably due to some connections, position of different things, lack of fuel because it doesn't have full tank all the time, etc. But still sometimes after it has nicely started, it won't start well when it is warm. Sometimes it also needs some gas at first, so it won't stop. Earlier it also stopped sometimes after that 17 second fast idle(?) sequence, if u don't give some gas to it. Now it run's quite stable maybe 1800 rpm idle until u have to stop it. It's not all the time exactly 1800, it goes sometimes down or up, but usually goes up a little when engine gets warmer. If I remember right, the only way this far to get idle lower, is to force those levers where gas pedal wire comes, to opposite position as when giving it more gas.

We have three Mazda books, which local reseller sold to us. But unluckily the Workshop Manual supplement is for turbocharger version with ABS, so it's a little different. Body Shop Manual is not very good with engine problems and the wiring diagram too is for turbocharger with ABS. I ordered the Haynes repair manual and one other rx-7 book, but we are still waiting those.

I still don't know where is the "Initial set Coupler". Near headlights, battery and coilpacket is one green 6 pin connector, but only three of them have wires. Have some of these cars really 2 coilpacks, like 4 coils? Because FSM i have in my computer has second coil pack in the driver side corner of engine bay. Only free 2 pin connector I see is next to engine, where are several coloured connectors.

Hope this leads to somewhere...

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

1st off, I'm glad you've searched and read up on stuff. That's more than most new people.

I'm not sure if European cars are the same... This will tell you the information about your car. Also, this thread https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/specifications-what-did-2nd-generation-rx-7-come-w-options-standard-features-249616/ , stickied at the top of the 2nd gen section will help.

From the FAQ. I know my RX7 has an information sticker in the driver's side (I think, might be passengers, I'd have to look to be 100%) door jam.

My philosophy: if it works, don't try to fix (or worry about) it.

Sounds like rebuild time to me. You could try this, from www.rotaryresurrection.com

Coolant Seal Fix (Temporary)

DISCLAIMER: "I am not the author of the writeup or developer or the procedure. I believe the original post may have been made by Paul Yaw of Yawpower, but I am not sure. I am only posting the information to be of help to other people, and take no credit for it. I have not personally tried it, and do not know if it will work for your individual application, but I know of people who have had some success with it."

If you're interested in what is to be considered a temporary fix, read on.

The recipe: two cans of Block Weld and some Purple Power degreaser from Pep Boys. The Block Weld is a clear liquid with copper granules blended in.
The process takes *hours* but can be very worthwhile!

Step 1: Clean the heck out of the cooling system - drain the radiator, fill with water and degreaser, run the motor until warm.

Step 2: Repeat 5 or 6 more times.

Step 3: Drain the radiator, fill with water only and run the motor until warm.

Step 4: Repeat 2 or 3 times. You must rinse the system with water until no degreaser is left inside, this is *very* important.

Step 5: When you are sure that the cooling system is very clean inside, refill with water plus two cans of Block Weld (no anti-freeze). Run the motor until warm (about 30 minutes). This hardens the Block Weld where the water is leaking into the motor. Do not rev the motor into high RPM during this process!

Step 6: Leave the motor off for a minimum of three hours

Step 7: Drive for 20-30 minutes in the local area to make sure that the repair has worked. Keep the RPM down! If successful, drain a small amount of water from the radiator and add some anti-freeze. If it's still leaking water into the engine, add another bottle of Block Weld and run the engine for 20-30 minutes. Let stand for three hours again. Test drive again.

Step 8: Drive the car around like you used to... assuming that the process worked!
This process can be a real pain to perform because you have to start the motor to accomplish the warm ups during the steps. Don't forget to pull the fuse when you turn the motor over to push out the water prior to each start up. Cups and cups of water came out of my motor throughout the process! I have been driving the car pretty hard since the temporary fix and it has held up well. It now starts easily, has plenty of power, and hasn't needed any water to be added to the system since I added the Block Weld (about two months ago). It was a lot easier to do this temporary fix than to go out and buy another motor/car, especially since my other one is almost done.
If your motor is shot (like mine was) you've got nothing to lose. If it works for you thank Paul Yaw at YawPower. His crappy little shop truck has been driven pretty hard for two years after this same kind of temporary fix. He claims that his truck's motor was blowing even more water out of it than mine was.


If you follow the directions on the can of Block Weld, it will not work for this type of repair! Follow the steps listed above. Be very aggressive in your efforts to clean the inside of the cooling system.

The FAQ stickied at the top of the 2nd Gen Section has links to the FSM (Factory Service Manual) which will get you what you need.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...al+set+coupler

Got that from a search. You say you've used it, but just be sure the Search button is your best friend. I've had 823490384 problems with my RX7, but I've only had to post about 5 original threads because I ***** the Search button.

There's a great write-up (information thread) about idle problems in the Archive section.

arttu

I've seen that sticky, from scans of that post I thought it is GLX, but it lacks some stuff. But it has that AAS, that other versions don't have according to those lists. Thanks for the vin info, but this car seems to have different (european?) code in it.
JHZFC132200###### Serial part seems to fit that it's made in 1986 in Hiroshima. Maybe first 1 means non-turbo and 32 coupe something?

But it had some electrical problems and now those things are fixed. Yeah, I've seen some threads about those blockers. Don't know where to get those things nearby. And it's maybe better to do the rebuild than a temporary fix. Btw, this car has 260k kilometers.
It seems u didn't belive me i've used the search and read many threads. In past two weeks I've really read many posts from this forum, I have even used those search terms, have that FSM in my computer, like I said. I even noticed, that Archive has a collection of summaries and threads that contain valuable information, but not all old threads.

Of course it's possible that I've skipped some fix or haven't understand something that is wrong. But there is this problem that there are so many different models, and we don't have one working samekind car with right adjustments and installations. Not to mention a mechanic that would say for sure this plug is for that and so on. That's why I'm wondering for example where the "Initial Set Coupler" is in this car.

Thanks for your quick reply.

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

Yeah, I wasn't sure if it was close enough to match up. The A/C could of been taken out by a previous owner.

Well after that many kilometers, I wouldn't doubt it needs a rebuild.

Eh, I believe you, but I like reiterating it. Search button = sex.

No problem.
Did the info on the Initial Set Coupler help? Can you find it now?
Page 4A-3 (86-88) has a picture of the Initial Set Coupler.
Page 4A-78 (86-88) of the FSM seems to have another picture.

arttu

If it's wires should be tied together with that diagnose? 6-pin connector wires and coil wires, then it is not there. But if it is that 2-pin connector near motor, where are maybe 5 or 6 connectors, green, blue, yellow, orange, white, I've found it. While I turn key into On-position, some noise starts coming from the engine bay, maybe the BAC valve, and this sound seems to change a little, when I jumper that 2-pin green connector.

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

Are you talking about when you jumper it? I just used a paper clip.

arttu

I mean should the connector be there where the coil wires and that 6-pin connector wires are?

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

Yes. The 6-pin connector is for the self-diagnosis checker (4A-21). 50-29 of the FSM has the color codes for the 6 pin check connector (I think).

arttu

Does someone else have that "Initial Set Coupler" connector near those different color connectors?

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

It should have Orange and Black wires coming out of it. On page 50-29, I believe it's F-41.

It may be undernearth something. I suppose it could be by your rats nest if somebody moved it. But it's supposed to be up by the headlight, coil, etc.

arttu

There is no 2-pin connector here: http://tols17.oulu.fi/~arkorhon/rx7/...near_coils.jpg

But I think it's the smaller green connector in this picture, it has black and red/orange wires: http://tols17.oulu.fi/~arkorhon/rx7/...upler_here.jpg
What is that Denso thing in pic above?

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

Well that looks like it to me. Maybe it's in a different location on European cars or something.

http://tols17.oulu.fi/~arkorhon/rx7/...near_coils.jpg
Is that blue connector supposed to be hooked up...?

arttu

They are. All 4 blue connectors in that pic. (not sure which one u meant)

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

From that angle the blue connector on the right doesn't look hooked up. I guess it's just plugged into something directly behind it that's blocked by the connector itself.

There just looks like a terminal on the right side above the bright blue connector that has nothing on it.

arttu

I've also noticed, that both coils have two terminals (behind 6-pin green connector is the empty terminal of the other coil), and only one in both of them is in use.

Another thing in that picture, that I think is odd and different than for example american rx-7's, is that relay between battery and coils. I think it is controlled by a switch in center console (which I mentioned earlier) and is controlling the power line of retractable motors of front lights. I quess it is something that import company has done so it will be accepted into finnish roads?

But for that high idle problem. Where could I see good photos of that mechanical linkage system of throttle and it's stopper screw etc. So I would see are those okay in this car?

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...e+cable+pic%2A
That will probably help.

http://www.fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/TBM/tbm.html
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...hmentid=112425

Those might help. Other than that, all I can suggest is trying some different search keywords or the FSM.

arttu

Thx for showing me that fc3spro page, I have visited that site, but didn't thought about that some pages have more pics than other only text pages. Even it is for turbo, it shows something more than just text. Some update about the current situation. Car still starts easy and idle is lower. Sometimes it doesn't even make bubbles into coolant for a short period of time and it's possible to open filling cap, but then it reminds for it's problem. It also backfires, but I don't think that's a big problem, at least not until the inspection... About electrical problems, that are broke in my mind and should be fixed some day: Passenger's side door switch doesn't make the lights go on, but driver's side switch does. Co-driver's PW is not working, not even from driver's side. Idiot panel clock is usually off, shows 1:00 sometimes. Of course some bulbs have to be changed.

The Cam Adjusting seemed to be way higher than it should be, and the temperature was below 20 ºC, now I think it's more like it should be. The other part I didn't like, but dad wanted to adjust the high idle screw when the throttle was out of the car, because the second throttle plates were closed more that way, now it sometimes starts idling about 900-1000 rpm. That screw is in so difficult place, so it still is adjusted that how. Second throttle plates were quite dirty, and aren't still shining, lot's of cleaning when motor is off the car. Before taking off TB the idle somehow lowered to 1100-1400, and was bouncing between those figures. Now I think it doesn't bounce at least not so much. But we have not found vacuum leaks, at least spraying something flammable cleaner over different places hasn't changed the idle and neither did some leak detector spray show any marks of leaking.

I adjusted the TPS so the resistance is now ~1k, before it was over 2k, otherwise it seemed to be working right, max. reading was maybe 6,2k. Now even the air adjust screw does something, but still the lowest rpm is little over thousand. Dashpot seems to be working too, now when I have realised what it is supposed to do, adjusting is not maybe the correct, but it slows down releasing of gas.

Btw. In archived faq for the idle problems it says "- BAC: Resistance: 10.7-12.3 kOhm. Operation: Apply 12V to check" It is 12,6 OHMS, which I think is more correct In not sure about the rest, but AWS also has maybe too high value? And besides this car has only one coil pack, "Initial Set Coupler" in different place, do most other cars have overflow bottle near light relays?

Tips for adjusting the mixture? Because the idle is not yet where FSM thinks it should be, so what could be the optimal value for any situation?

arttu

Long time no talk, but now the car has some problems so I think it's time for somekind of update.

Dad rebuilt the motor, and there isn't such coolant problems anymore. Water pump probably is leaking some coolant, amount changes a lot, sometimes coolant level can be seen from the filler cork for long time, sometimes u have to fill it often. Anyways new water pump seals are hopefully coming soon.

It even has been running for tens of minutes, don't have measured exactly. And we were planning to take it to the yearly inspection the next day, but then it wouldn't even start. It cranks always, and with charged battery or with jump-start of course better. Then after many attempts it started again after long jump-start.

Today (or more exactly yesterday, because it's so late here) it hasn't run very long. In the evening it seemed eventually that without air filter plug (airflow air-temp meter and fuel pump switch) it would try to start like every three attempts. Sometimes like no spark, no kicking, sometimes it's running with start, but rpms won't go up and it stops when u release the key. And if it "starts", it rarely goes near 1500 rpm and dies, usually it doesn't even reach 1000 rpm before it dies.

Is it so, that when crankin, both injector pairs are working? I'm just thinking that, if so, maybe primary injectors are not now somehow working, and when u release the start, the fuel flow stops too and it just raises the rpm a little with that fuel left from secondary injectors. And with airflow meter etc. connected it won't usually kick at all now, even some days ago it worked quite well.

Here's other question, what kind of potentiometer is in the airflow meter? I tried to measure it, but it seemed to be some hundreds of ohms (or kilos, don't remember now) then rise a little, drop again and then rise. Could it be so weared, that readings are not ok? Fuel pump switch seemed to work, but I don't know about the temp resistor. But something there is preventing it to start, and ecu's default values work better.

Some not engine related electrical stuff is now fixed also. For examlple horn was not working and maybe some other functions that cpu does. There were many broken solder joints in the cpu's connector so I resoldered most of them and now horn and other stuff works. The power mirrors, it was quite easy to fix, the controls base was dropped and everything worked when it was put back in place. Even right door switch started working, maybe it just needed some use But right power window isn't still working, well that's not really important at all at the moment, if just the engine would run nicely.

Btw, couple days ago when the engine was running, when u put a gear on and revved to about 2k rpm, the rpm would not come down until u put the gearbox to neutral or release the clutch so it can't hold that rpm. Is that normal? One family friend sayd that maybe it just doesn't torque on low rpms and that why it raises the rpm. If it is not normal, is that some neutral switch malfunction or even overdrive switch problem? I could imagine that on 5th gear it would try to keep rolling longer by keeping rpm at least on 2k.