2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

coolant coming from exhaust

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Old Nov 13, 2009 | 04:24 PM
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coolant coming from exhaust

Hey guys,

I have been swapping a S4 NA motor into my 85 gsl...after several obstacles I have it in, and wired, and it starts but dies.

Long story short, due to the swap my exhaust manifold does not meet up to my cat converter. I have coolant coming from the manifold after it runs and dies.

Pulled plugs and my plugs have water on them, pulled my oil dipstick and it is greyish because i have water in it somehow.

Have NOT done a leak down test, dont have the tool.

How can I Troubleshoot to see what is causing it, any way to fix it short term with a bottle of crap that fixes leaking seals.

REALLY dont want to pull motor and start over with a rebuild
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Old Nov 13, 2009 | 05:21 PM
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So you swapped in a motor with blown coolant seals?
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Old Nov 13, 2009 | 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Brodie121
So you swapped in a motor with blown coolant seals?
???? WTF....

No i didn't know the seals were blown...
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Old Nov 13, 2009 | 05:54 PM
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Yep, sounds like you swapped in a blown motor.
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Old Nov 13, 2009 | 06:16 PM
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was the motor fine before you swapped it in? if it's a coolant pumper then it's really toast. was probably overheated.
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Old Nov 13, 2009 | 07:15 PM
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do you guys think the metal block, iron additive, method would work? even for just a while
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Old Nov 13, 2009 | 07:23 PM
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Where did you get the motor from.
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Old Nov 13, 2009 | 07:23 PM
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It would work if your objective was to clog your radiator. Do it right the first time, quick fixes take longer.
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Old Nov 14, 2009 | 04:30 AM
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Originally Posted by irishpilot
do you guys think the metal block, iron additive, method would work? even for just a while
Definitely not. Sounds like you've got a toasted motor.
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Old Nov 14, 2009 | 12:05 PM
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It sounds like the coolant seals are gone, if its leaking that much coolant that rebuild it. That block weld doesnt usually work and just makes a rebuild more difficult.
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Old Nov 14, 2009 | 03:22 PM
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After reading your post I'd say that you couldn't even attemp to do the blockweld fix because you have to keep starting it and warming it up. (Run for 30 minutes is one of the steps). From my recent experience with trying blockweld in my very ragged s5 13b it would probably not work. I ended up severly flooding my ride.
You might want to try and inject a bit of oil in the spark plug holes and try to see if it will start up and run a bit. Sometimes running it will make it a bit easier for subsequent starts/drives. I'm def. not a rotary engine expert so you might want to disregard what I'm suggesting; probably won't help in your case.
Good luck.
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