convince me
#1
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convince me
I will most likely get the opportunity in a few weeks to obtain a 1989 rx7 non turbo automatic.
i do not plan to race or rice this car. I simply want to drive it to and from work and school about 60-65 miles a day.
the car has 93k miles on it and has not had any major problems or so the current owner says.
what sort of reliability am I looking at with one of these cars if i change the oil regularly and check it regularly (rotaries leak oil naturally right?) and keep up on routine maint. will she run for me theoretically for the next few years?
thank you guys!
-don
'89 conquest TSI turbo
'93 Talon EST turbo conversion project
i do not plan to race or rice this car. I simply want to drive it to and from work and school about 60-65 miles a day.
the car has 93k miles on it and has not had any major problems or so the current owner says.
what sort of reliability am I looking at with one of these cars if i change the oil regularly and check it regularly (rotaries leak oil naturally right?) and keep up on routine maint. will she run for me theoretically for the next few years?
thank you guys!
-don
'89 conquest TSI turbo
'93 Talon EST turbo conversion project
#2
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Rotories don't naturally leak oil. A very small amount of oil is injected into the engine combustion chambers for lubrication.
If there is good compression, (a check is manditory) and the car is in good shape, yes it should run fine for another 80-120K miles, with regular maintenance, and minor part replacement (O2 sensor, Pulsation Dampner, tune up parts- all things that should be changed regularly anyway).
If there is good compression, (a check is manditory) and the car is in good shape, yes it should run fine for another 80-120K miles, with regular maintenance, and minor part replacement (O2 sensor, Pulsation Dampner, tune up parts- all things that should be changed regularly anyway).
#3
knowledge junkie
Is the auto a must for you or did this particular car just have one.
If you just need a fun "around town" car - get the convertible or GXL. Turbo II is for massive HP & torque and the GTU-S or GTU is good for scca racing.
If you just need a fun "around town" car - get the convertible or GXL. Turbo II is for massive HP & torque and the GTU-S or GTU is good for scca racing.
#4
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it's not a MUST, i actually prefer a m/t but i don't have the time nor money to go looking at other rex's around the area (there aren't many) and i just need something reliable & stable.
it has a sunroof i don't need convertible; that'd kill my insurance. :p
so rotaries injecto oil to lubricate the rotors then? and that is the reason that sometimes you might have to replace oil between oil changes right?
it has a sunroof i don't need convertible; that'd kill my insurance. :p
so rotaries injecto oil to lubricate the rotors then? and that is the reason that sometimes you might have to replace oil between oil changes right?
#5
knowledge junkie
If you want stable & reliable, I'd ditch the auto and get the stickshift version. The auto just sucks too much .
Believe me, I'd SERIOULSLY recommend NOT getting the auto as it robs too much of the performance & fun.
Believe me, I'd SERIOULSLY recommend NOT getting the auto as it robs too much of the performance & fun.
#6
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i know i know i used to have a 135hp non turbo eagle talon automatic. it robs a BUTTLOAD of power but ya gotta remember. this car is less about power and more about getting me somewhere reliably.
and trust me, if i like the car and feel potential in it i will definately be looking for a turbo stick model to play around with as a project. consider this my "entry level rx7 to get a feel for the rotary engine" car.
reliability is key here at least for the next year or 2. I'm a college kid with very limited funds.
and trust me, if i like the car and feel potential in it i will definately be looking for a turbo stick model to play around with as a project. consider this my "entry level rx7 to get a feel for the rotary engine" car.
reliability is key here at least for the next year or 2. I'm a college kid with very limited funds.
#7
If you don't know about rotaries and you NEED a reliable car. I would say look for a Nissan, Toyota, Or Honda..
Rotaries are reliable if you know how to take care of them.
Things to check if you do get it:
Cooling system pressure test
Check for exhaust gases in the coolant
Compression check..
Those 3 things will tell you the state of the engine. And will save you from buying a car with a blown engine.
-Zach
Rotaries are reliable if you know how to take care of them.
Things to check if you do get it:
Cooling system pressure test
Check for exhaust gases in the coolant
Compression check..
Those 3 things will tell you the state of the engine. And will save you from buying a car with a blown engine.
-Zach
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#9
Well most are pretty simple..
to pressure test the cooling system, you need to get a pump or take the car to a shop. pump it with pressure and see if it looses pressure.
To check for exhaust gasses in the coolant, they have paper strips that turn color if exhaust gases are in the coolant. go buy some from an auto supply store..
To check the compression, get a compression gauge..
There is a valve you have to take out of the gauge to use it on a rotary. so that it does not keep the pressure. you should see blips consistantly spaced on each rotor. and i think about 90Psi is good.(cant remember off hand)
So you will pull the egi fuese and remove the top spark plug on the 1st rotor. hook up the gauge and have someone turn the car over.. now watch the gauge, you should see jumps.. all the peaks should be close to each other.. if one or two are alot lower something is wrong.. THen check the other rotor..
If there is a difference between the 2 rotor more then a couple psi, something is wrong..
Hope that gets you started..
-Zach
to pressure test the cooling system, you need to get a pump or take the car to a shop. pump it with pressure and see if it looses pressure.
To check for exhaust gasses in the coolant, they have paper strips that turn color if exhaust gases are in the coolant. go buy some from an auto supply store..
To check the compression, get a compression gauge..
There is a valve you have to take out of the gauge to use it on a rotary. so that it does not keep the pressure. you should see blips consistantly spaced on each rotor. and i think about 90Psi is good.(cant remember off hand)
So you will pull the egi fuese and remove the top spark plug on the 1st rotor. hook up the gauge and have someone turn the car over.. now watch the gauge, you should see jumps.. all the peaks should be close to each other.. if one or two are alot lower something is wrong.. THen check the other rotor..
If there is a difference between the 2 rotor more then a couple psi, something is wrong..
Hope that gets you started..
-Zach
#11
fairly common.. but it can mean a couple different things.. 1 being the engine is toast..
A big one is the exhaust gas in the coolant..
Of course check all the normal things too. like how long it takes to start cold. and hot.. and if it smokes at WOT.
-Zach
A big one is the exhaust gas in the coolant..
Of course check all the normal things too. like how long it takes to start cold. and hot.. and if it smokes at WOT.
-Zach
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