would a messed up twin scroll cause this?

hondahater did you say you have an intermitent hesitation around 4k?

Maybe ours problem isnt closely related, mine is a constant hesitation and popping anywhere after 5k.
It does seem like its a voltage/grounding issue to me..

 

I haven't seen this mentioned.
A crack in the TID can be a possible cause.
It can be hard to spot if the crack is pressed closed when idleing, but when under load the torque flex in the engine mounts allows it to open.

 

bad2ndgen are you saying that the coils where bad??? Also sure shot that sounds good I'll check it out but I've done it before however I've never seen any cut but I'll check again closer. I have my twin scroll deactivated right now ( flaper disconected )..........wait a minuted, I also took the vac line off the twin scroll actuator would this cause a vac leak??? hum..........didn't think about that, all the other places on this forum say people disconnected the line but never said if they caped it off??? I'm going to cap it off today.

 

nevermind I just checked and the vac hose is not off of it. Damn!

 

Continental?

 

LOL, how much research did you put into that one, Hermit? Actually Continental Express Jet, the 50-seat regional jets. In fact we have a fairly large base in Knoxville, too, for heavy maintenance.

Honda Dude, if it turns out to be something simple like a vac leak or cracked TID, I'm gonna personally come over to La. and kick your.......

 

please do!! I'll let you kick my *** if you get my 7 working oh one thing though, there are two wires that run into the ecu for afm one is input the other on is output, witch one should I check?

 

I wasn't gonna say ***, lol...

Wha? The "output" to the AFM is actually the 5v reference voltage output to several sensors, TPS among them...That 5v you can check at the ECU, no problem, while just sitting there with the key on (it's gonna be the same with key on, or with the alternator running)...The other AFM wires take care of your intake ait temp circuit, and your door switch (keeps the fuel pump running after start). If your 5v ref wasn't working, you'd never get the car to start, so that can't be the problem...

So your TID's not cracked, right?

 

lol yeah tid is not cracked however I just took it for a test drive and this was the results

1. with the boost sensor hooked up I got hesitation well before 4000rpm prolly like 3.5k
2. with the boost sensor unplugged I could get to about 4 or 4.2k before I would get hesitation. What would cause this??? Man this is some strange stuff.

 

Uugghh- what were the boost sensor voltages during the drive? You're looking for "lumpy" needle jumps between 1 and 4.8 volts or so. If everything's fine, the needle movements will be smooth & linear, following the engine transients...