Compression Test Interpretation Please
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Compression Test Interpretation Please
Hello all,
1988 GXL NA S4 with the airpump removed and the actuator valves welded open (according to the mechanic). Car, after starting, feels fine when running. Always will start cold, but sometimes requires the gas pedal fully depressed. This was with the spark plugs installed incorrectly (Leadings on top and Trailings on bottom)
I've installed them correctly after the test.
I need someone to tell me to either:
1. Immediately stop fixing this RX7 and sell it off because it's hopeless
or
2. Go ahead and spend money on easy fun stuff (springs/struts, wheels, tires, radiator, shifter bushings/boots, etc.) as a hobby car because it is likely to run for the next year.
Test method:
Engine dead cold, last run was 12 hours prior
Removed top two spark wires and then plugs
I screwed into the top front sparkplug hole a "Compression Tester" from sears that had a 14mm adapter. It wasn't too tightly screwed in, but only gently by hand (the hose extension is a bitch to turn along with everything else)
EGI Comp and EGI Inj fuses removed.
Wife depressed clutch and gas pedal fully, and started car.
Gauge read with valve opened:
Very consistent bounces at 60PSI (in triples)
Guage read with guage valve closed (Max PSI):
Exactly 75psi, every time.
Thanks for any input,
steve
1988 GXL NA S4 with the airpump removed and the actuator valves welded open (according to the mechanic). Car, after starting, feels fine when running. Always will start cold, but sometimes requires the gas pedal fully depressed. This was with the spark plugs installed incorrectly (Leadings on top and Trailings on bottom)
I've installed them correctly after the test.
I need someone to tell me to either:
1. Immediately stop fixing this RX7 and sell it off because it's hopeless
or
2. Go ahead and spend money on easy fun stuff (springs/struts, wheels, tires, radiator, shifter bushings/boots, etc.) as a hobby car because it is likely to run for the next year.
Test method:
Engine dead cold, last run was 12 hours prior
Removed top two spark wires and then plugs
I screwed into the top front sparkplug hole a "Compression Tester" from sears that had a 14mm adapter. It wasn't too tightly screwed in, but only gently by hand (the hose extension is a bitch to turn along with everything else)
EGI Comp and EGI Inj fuses removed.
Wife depressed clutch and gas pedal fully, and started car.
Gauge read with valve opened:
Very consistent bounces at 60PSI (in triples)
Guage read with guage valve closed (Max PSI):
Exactly 75psi, every time.
Thanks for any input,
steve
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Engine, Not Motor
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Try using the leading plug holes. The trailings have only a tiny hole exposed to the chamber while the leadings have the full width of the plug.
60 PSI is very low. 75 PSI is low. The exactly 75 PSI reading came from the fact that with the valve closed, the gauge only reads the highest pulse.
If the engine runs fine and stars easily (the flooding is common...) then there's no reason to junk it. It may run fine for the next 5 years, may only run another year. If you are planning on rebuilding, now is the time to do so before you throw a seal and junk a rotor/housing.
60 PSI is very low. 75 PSI is low. The exactly 75 PSI reading came from the fact that with the valve closed, the gauge only reads the highest pulse.
If the engine runs fine and stars easily (the flooding is common...) then there's no reason to junk it. It may run fine for the next 5 years, may only run another year. If you are planning on rebuilding, now is the time to do so before you throw a seal and junk a rotor/housing.
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