Compression Test
11-20-01, 05:43 PM
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Compression Test
I would like to do a compression test on my 88 SE. I have access to a compression tester and all the other tools needed to do it, I just dont know the precedure for doing a rotary engine. Could some one please help. also I heard that you had to modify the compression tester in some way. Is this true or will a tester for a regular piston engine work? thanks for the input
11-20-01, 07:37 PM
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www.fc3s.org Check under "How To's" on the left. Go to "Manuals", and look at the "1988 Factory Sevice Manual". You need Adobe 5.0 to look at it b/c, it is in PDF format. Go to the section called "Engine", and look under tune up. There it will give you all the info on how to do a compression test!! Good Luck!
11-20-01, 08:10 PM
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Does anyone know how to do a compression test with a gauge type compression tester, in the manual Rico05 said to go to they say to use an electric one, but the one I have is not electric. I know it wont be as accurate as the electric one but at least It will give me an idea. Thanks for the help
11-20-01, 11:18 PM
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Banned. I got OWNED!!!
I have a regular autozone tester that I use to get a general idea of an engines state.
Remove both lower plugs, and disable spark and fuel by removing the 2 innermost large fuses in the engine bay(towards engine, eng inj and eng comp).
Have a friend floor the gas, block open the throttle somehow, or rest a brick on the accelerator.
IF using a friend, just thread in teh hose and connect to the gage, and have him crank while you watch. IF you know your engine has all its seals intact(not blown) then skip teh next step. step. Leave the check valve closed on the gage(the small pin on teh side) adn watch what it builds up to. 90 psi is pretty low, give that engine less than a year. 100psi is decent. 110psi or higher is healthy, 125psi is new. Move tot he other rotor and repeat. If the battery is low you will get low readings.
IF youre testing an engine youre not sure is good(ie blown seals) youll need to hold the check valve open while cranking. Watch for 3 even bounces per rotor. IF you see only 1, or none, that rotor has at least one blown seal, if not 2-3. You can easily hear a loud whoosh from each seal, adn if you put your hadn next to the open plug hole you can feel each seal pass by the hole. If you dont feel air each time, then you have a bad seal.
Remove both lower plugs, and disable spark and fuel by removing the 2 innermost large fuses in the engine bay(towards engine, eng inj and eng comp).
Have a friend floor the gas, block open the throttle somehow, or rest a brick on the accelerator.
IF using a friend, just thread in teh hose and connect to the gage, and have him crank while you watch. IF you know your engine has all its seals intact(not blown) then skip teh next step. step. Leave the check valve closed on the gage(the small pin on teh side) adn watch what it builds up to. 90 psi is pretty low, give that engine less than a year. 100psi is decent. 110psi or higher is healthy, 125psi is new. Move tot he other rotor and repeat. If the battery is low you will get low readings.
IF youre testing an engine youre not sure is good(ie blown seals) youll need to hold the check valve open while cranking. Watch for 3 even bounces per rotor. IF you see only 1, or none, that rotor has at least one blown seal, if not 2-3. You can easily hear a loud whoosh from each seal, adn if you put your hadn next to the open plug hole you can feel each seal pass by the hole. If you dont feel air each time, then you have a bad seal.
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