Mine *always* starts as well.

 

I have "unflooded" it several times to be sure. Good suggestion though.

 

I found this post about it.

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/does-anybody-make-block-heater-rotary-621578/

I was just seeing if that could be it.

 

take some pics of your engine bay. did you install your block off plates correctly and not use any silicone/rtv when you put your manifolds back together? If it only runs for "4 seconds" you have no clue whether or not you have a vacuum leak.

 

So you are below zero in NC right now and that's why your car won't start?

Look man, you have something wrong with your car. When you find the problem and fix it, the car will start and run. I know it is frustrating, but that is where you are.

Seriously, good luck.

 

i beleive this is your issue. i am currently having this issue, kinda. right now your engine is most likely flooded. go unplug your fuel pump and crank the motor over, this will burn off the flood, i installed a fuel cutoff switch partly because of this. second, when you start the car help it idle at about 1500 RPMS for about 45 seconds. if it still wont run on its own after that i cant help you, it is believed that my tII has a cutoff circuit somewhere in the injector wiring that will cut off all power to them when you turn it off and for a short time after initially started to help prevent flooding. this is what i was told by my local rotary mechanic. he's been doin this for 25+ years.

 

Awesome thanks a lot man! I will probably install a fuel cut off switch once i get her running right then. She actually started up and ran for about thirty seconds today so im getting closer! haha

 

Pictures will be up soon. Cant find camera charger. I did do all the plates correctly. I did use rtv on the manifold.

 

That doesn't make sense.... If there is a "cutoff circuit" that cuts power to the injectors for some time after you start... You wouldn't be able to rev the thing. No injectors = no fuel = no go.

If thats what 25 years experience has passed on, i must be close to be getting a doctorate if i've only been doing it for 4 years...

 

Four years and only six posts?
Im just messing. im sure you know what youre doing.

welcome to the forum btw.

 

4 years as a qualified mechanic. Not 4 years pretending to know what im talking about on the internet.

 

I FINALLY FIGURED OUT WHAT WAS WRONG!!!!!

Previously i had tested my afm to see if it was working. I had read the incorrect information (on another site) on how to test it. I did some more searching on here and i found another thread about it. So i tested it according to the new info and it was bad. I triple checked it and searched for several more threads on here to confirm. With all that said i can actually unplug my current bad AFM and start her up. She idles perfectly now and i was able to adjust all the timing issues i was having before as well. I can rev at all but that is obviously because the AFM is not plugged in. So hopefully she will be on the road by the end of the week!!! Thanks for all the help everyone. I will still post some pictures so everyone can see what i did.

 

I thought the car would only crank for a split second without AFM?
Car primes fuel rails at start up and then waits for AFM info to start giving fuel.

How is it running without a AFM?

 

To be completely honest i have no idea why or how it does. but it does. If i could find my freaking camera charger i would take a video.

 

It does sound peculiar but on an S4 the fuel check connector would have to be purposely jumpered or the Brown wire that supplies a necessary ground to the Circuit Opening relay is accidentally grounded or the wire (B/W) which is supposed to supply voltage to the same relay only when the key is put to start is actually sending voltage to the relay when the key is put to on as well.

 

The series FIVE have a ECU circuit that will cutoff the fuel injectors IF.........the ECU sees the START signal from the start circuit wiring........and the TPS is reading full value (your foot held to the floor causes the TPS to go full value). After the engine starts the key is put back to ON from START and the engine keeps running.

Series four do NOT have that feature unless you buy a RTEK 2.0 for your series four that incorporates that feature.

 

Make sure that the WATER THERMO SENSOR on the back of the water pump housing is connected to the harness and you might remove the plug and make sure one of the two contacts inside that electrical plug are not pushed back resulting in no contact with the sensors pins.

A disconnected water thermo sensor will result in very difficult starts in cold weather and even if it finally starts.........it won't run very well til the engine water gets fully hot. It's writtten.

 

Yes thats the standard fuel cut off. But it doesn't cut fuel once the engine starts...

 

it doesn't literally cut all power, it locks the injectors shut unless you apply more power (push the gas) to open them

 

Alright so i was finally able to borrow a camera and get some pictures of what i did.

 

She is still running without the afm so tomorrow i will post a video of it. I ordered a new one and i will post another video when it comes in.
Thanks for all the help!

 

Before any of you make fun of him, I've seen worse! That looks good for having been done in a hurry.

But you should really fix your 6-PI

 

How would you have done it?

 

Unless the fuel circuit wiring has been fudged with the only way for the car to run w/o the AFM is stated in post #40 with the exception that the contact in the Circuit Opening relay is stuck in the closed position and thus powers up the fuel pump w/key to on.

 

• your 6-port actuators need to be hooked back up to the cat so that they can open properly. otherwise you're killing the power potential at high rpms
• since you pulled all the emissions stuff off, you might as well get rid of the sub zero assist reservoir and pump.
• i'd be worried about developing a leak around the ACV block off plate, since the area is so big and you used such thin sheet metal for the making the plates.
• also, and this is if i were you, go down to the hardware store and buy the proper bolts needed to hold your plates down. it looks pretty tacky with all those spacers.
• what have you done as far as a oil catch can?
• have you thought about either a double sheave alt pulley, or running a yoohoo belt, to prevent waterpump issues at high rpms?
• and when you say the "new" AFM, you mean a known working used one right? please tell me you didn't order a brand new afm