V8kilr

The kit was upgraded actually to 1/2" thick steel since the 1/4" did warp a little when nitrious was introduced to the system.

1/2" never budged, also the brackets are welded on an industrial machine at a fabrication shop, so the welds will never break, seriously the metal will break first

V8kilr

No problems at all over an extended length of time and testing with unquotable horsepower but well above stock.

noseated

i have a problem im getting an exhaust leak because the pipe that connects to the precat is not able to connect fully

ramtookrazy

what are the list of extra parts i will need besides the manual transmission itself to do this conversion? i am hoping to do this pretty soon!!!

banzaitoyota

Pedal Box Assembly, Clutch MC and Clutch Line, Appropriate Fywheel, Pilot Bearing, Manual Driveshaft

RexRyder

iTrader: (10)

can it be done in reverse? I want an AT tii (not for me)

noseated

the rear diff is different. im not sure if u have to get a custom driveshaft or not but everything else is the same as doing the auto to manual conversion. remember that the auto doesnt have a pilot bearing and the mounts arnt gunna be that same. i would suggest that you weld in the proper mounts. other than that i think u can reverse all the steps.

Tofuball

V8kilr: You should (if you dont already) sell a kit w/ the brackets and bolts I'd certinaly grab a set

gonzz

I did the swap 2 weeks ago on my S5 vert.. Great write-up!!! Didn't have any problems.. I did it in a day

lagcisco

how much does this swap cost?

gonzz

You can get a tranny for around 100-150, clutch master/slave and line for 50-75, pedal assy from a parts car 35 or so and manual driveshaft for aroubd 50 or so. Then it's all labor..

I got lucky and they had a 89 N/A that just hit the local junk yard.. got eveything cheaper.. If you need some more info PM me...

DigitalSynthesis

Ok, there seems to be a bit of mis-information about this regarding convertibles. Speaking to Kevin Landers his '89 auto convertible came with both sets of mounts already. However all owners of '90 convertibles I've spoken to who have done this swap have NOT had both mounts and have needed to fabricate something.

In addition, the 'verts have additional bracing for the floorpan near the forward mount, as can be seen in these two contrasting photos:

1. A 1989 Manual transmission convertible:



And a 1990 Auto convertible:



Note both the missing tranny mount AND the missing underbrace in the second picture. Also note that there appear to be holes drilled in the frame rail for the underbrace but there do not appear to be holes or places for holes in the floorpan for it.

The reason I'm pointing this out is because I am planning to do Banzaitoyota's extreme swap including the removal of the manual transmission mount and welding it back in place. I have a full turbo drivetrain I am swapping in and I do NOT want the transmission mounts to be the weak point in here, because if they break under load they'll take out a whole lot more with them. Also I think there is a reason Mazda designed those underbraces to go along with the load-bearing components on the floorpan. I'm going to try and swap them as well.

I wish I had more options than buying an auto car but I can't find a rust free black 5-speed convertible for a rational price.

V8kilr

I used to for $50 on sre.com , came with all the bolts, washers, and mounts.

I sold the little business, all my stock, plans, blueprints, etc.... and have went back to programming for a while.

Sorry fellas

Adam

Step 2: Instrument Cluster Swap Out
Ok there are a couple reasons to switch your instrument cluster, 1 being your current tach max is 7k, The current max tach on a manual is 8k,




I have an automatic and my max tach is 8... Um

Adam

I will have to agree with Banz on those mounts!! you get Flex Flex over a long time will wear and distort them brackets.. Just not a solid feel im sure of that..I dare you to POP the Clutch REALLY HARD..ya just might get them brackets to pop off

Adam

V8kilr: now you will need to strip the whole interior including the dash to be able to remove the whole main carpet set.

why you ask? because it will catch on fire, I caught a 1st gen on fire before from not doing this and welding something in the wheel wells...


Thats why they make fire retarted Drop clothes.. Lazy *** welders

Adam

[QUOTE=V8kilr]
you will need to remove the correct mounts from the manual driveline car, and clean all the welds but keep the mounting section in tact and virtually undamaged so you can weld them to the auto driveline car, good luck.

are you joking? i have seen many people do it. agian Lazy

wozzoom

I agree that making a tranny adapter is "Half Assed".

When I swapped my auto, I welded in the proper mounts, because the adapter I originally used was not as stable as the stock mounts.

Now, you're probably wondering whats the best way to get the correct mounts. There are 2 ways:
#1 ORDER THEM! Yes, the mounting blocks are available for purchase from your local friendly Mazda dealer. I believe they cost about $30-40 bucks each.
#2 Remove them. The easiest way? A hammer and chissel in the junk yard will remove the center section of the tranny in about 10-15 minutes. To clean them, take the tunnel home and remove the excess tranny tunnel from the mounts with a grinder. Then grind the spot welds from the back. Done in about 45 min.

As for installation? Use some common sense... Take the seats out and lift the carpet. You don't have to remove the entire dash to lift the carpet a couple of inches. When welding, I used 1" inch beads spread about 1-1.5" inches apart. If you take your time, you'll barely heat the undercoating on the inside of the car.

For the finishing touches just spray with primmer, paint, and finally some undercoating. This method takes a little more time, but the end result is a must more secure transmission that won't bounce around.

noseated

ur saying take a hammer and hammer at the transmission tunnel all the way around until it comes off. there is no way. what about the spot welds and the normal weld... wait so your not talking about that. clarify please

banzaitoyota

Take a hammer and a cold chisel to cut the sheetmrtal around the tranny mount, then the attachment welds can be dealt with back at the shop

wozzoom

you've got it. I wasn't sure how effective a hammer and chisel was going to be in the yard, but believe me it will cut the trans tunnel like butter. Just go big and grab a big chunk of the tunnel, then do the delicate spot weld grinding at home where you have the propper tools.

JDuncan

iTrader: (3)

I had the luxury of my donor car being at home. I used a steel wire wheel on my drill to reveal the spot welds, then I drilled each one of them. Off popped the mounts. Yea.

mikevr007

In reference to https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ht=tranny+swap
specifically Step 5.

Have:
'86 with 13B, Manual trans.
Removed:
13B, from '86
Installed:
'91 13B previously mated to an automatic.
Swapped:
Wiring harnesses (complete with fuse blocks), cpu's, and ecu's from doaner '91.
Other:
Spliced "new" harness to body harness coming from rear of car on driver's side. (Still have to decipher passenger's side).

Obviously I don't have the inhibitor switch or any of the other A/T paraphenalia, so I need to know what function is being bypassed or created by connecting the two wires together, AND can I connect the neutral safety switch to the same green/black from the ECU that would normally go the the inhibitor switch?

Also, what color are the wires that are to be connected together?

Have I confused anyone besides myself?
Thanks!

mikevr007

I am thinking that the clutch switch could be wired in place of the inhibitor switch which would be equivalent to have the A/T in Park. But the neutral safety switch I'm not too sure of yet..

I guess what I should be asking is....Are the ECU's in an A/T and M/T equipped cars the same?
Beyond that, I can probably figured everything else out. Though, I am running out of hair to pull out....

Marv

Convertibles do not need a new tranny bracket?