Competition Motor/Tranny Mounts
#1
Nothin But a G Thang
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Competition Motor/Tranny Mounts
Hello, well my motor and tranny mounts need replacement and I found a few options I could go with stock ones, upgrade to stiffer mazda competition mounts or go with polyurethane mounts. I wouldnt mind a little vibration but this is a daily driven car that does see highway miles regularly. What do you guys recomend? I've been in some cars with upgraded mounts and i didnt know the difference but never been in a 7 with stiffer bushings. thanks
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lpeeff (03-27-20)
#3
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http://mazdatrix.com/mounts.htm
http://mazdatrix.com/g3.htm
And yes, you should definately get the comp mounts. They are very stiff, but not solid, perfect for anything, basically.
http://mazdatrix.com/g3.htm
And yes, you should definately get the comp mounts. They are very stiff, but not solid, perfect for anything, basically.
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thank you yani.
I am going to list some more part numbers below if thats ok.
Diff mount (Front): FCY1-28-680
Diff mount (Rear): FBY1-28-890
Front bushing set (Urethane bushings to replace stock front control arm bushings. Both sides.) : 0000-04-7401-KT
Rear bushing set (Delrin rear control arm bushings. Includes front outer, rear upper at triaxial hub, and toe steer eliminator bushings. Both sides.) :
0000-04-7402-KT
Bushing (NO CLUE WHAT BUSHING HAHA, if you know, please let us know) : FBY1-34-470
Bushing kit, rear subframe (Delrin bushings replace the stock rubber in the rear subframe.) : 0000-04-7403-KT
Bushing kit, toe steer elim (Delrin bushings replace stock bushings, eliminating rear suspension's toe-steer characteristics. Both sides.) : 0000-04-7404-KT
Bushing Lower arm : FBY1-34-460
Bushing kit front lower arm (Urethane bushings to replace stock front control arm bushings. Both sides.) : 0000-04-7401
Bushing kit rear lower arm (Urethane front outer, rear control arm bushings. Both sides) : 0000-04-7402
So, I already have DTSS, if I was to do a full bushing upgrade, would I just get the bushing kit (front and rear) lower arm, the rear subframe kit, front and rear bushing set, and the diff mounts (front and rear)? Or are there some other bushing that will needing to be changed out also?
Does someone have a list of all the bushing in an FC that can be changed out / upgraded?
Thanks.
I am going to list some more part numbers below if thats ok.
Diff mount (Front): FCY1-28-680
Diff mount (Rear): FBY1-28-890
Front bushing set (Urethane bushings to replace stock front control arm bushings. Both sides.) : 0000-04-7401-KT
Rear bushing set (Delrin rear control arm bushings. Includes front outer, rear upper at triaxial hub, and toe steer eliminator bushings. Both sides.) :
0000-04-7402-KT
Bushing (NO CLUE WHAT BUSHING HAHA, if you know, please let us know) : FBY1-34-470
Bushing kit, rear subframe (Delrin bushings replace the stock rubber in the rear subframe.) : 0000-04-7403-KT
Bushing kit, toe steer elim (Delrin bushings replace stock bushings, eliminating rear suspension's toe-steer characteristics. Both sides.) : 0000-04-7404-KT
Bushing Lower arm : FBY1-34-460
Bushing kit front lower arm (Urethane bushings to replace stock front control arm bushings. Both sides.) : 0000-04-7401
Bushing kit rear lower arm (Urethane front outer, rear control arm bushings. Both sides) : 0000-04-7402
So, I already have DTSS, if I was to do a full bushing upgrade, would I just get the bushing kit (front and rear) lower arm, the rear subframe kit, front and rear bushing set, and the diff mounts (front and rear)? Or are there some other bushing that will needing to be changed out also?
Does someone have a list of all the bushing in an FC that can be changed out / upgraded?
Thanks.
#14
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Be aware that if you plan on using individual rear camber adjusters then it's not advisable to get stiffer bushings in the rear control arms, because the adjusters twist that bushing, which can lead to binding. If you want something other than stock, then AWR has some spherical bearings for there that'll allow you to use the individual adjusters without problems.
#15
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these are going to go on my s5 vert automatic. it definitly needs new mounts so i think im gonna get the mazdaspeed ones like yall suggest. im also getting a rebuidable driveshaft from mazdatrix since my car eats crappy stock driveshafts(ive gone through 3 in the past 4 years). thanks for the info guys. i am doing this to tighten up things underneath, ive already got a nice suspension setup. Im just doing minor upgrades like sport brake pads/rotors, stiffer street shocks, etc. im not doing any engine mods on this car to keep it as reliable as it has been. ive only got a high flow cat on the vert.
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Let me tell you the formula for converting mazdatrix parts numbers for mazda part numbers. It is a HUGE help with the mazda racing account since its easier to find stuff on mazdatrix usually.
First, a sample (the comp motor mount):
Mazda - FBY1-39-040
Mazdatrix - 39-0400-FBY1
The last 4 of the mazdatrix # is the 1st 4 of the mazda number, the rest is the same. If, after you translate the number, there is a 0 at the end (like in this number) then you just leave it off. Here is why: Some mazda mart numbers have a letter at the end, like the stock motor mounts - FB01-39-040A (or 39-040A-FB01 for mazdatrix). In order to have the same number of characters in the part number, mazdatrix puts in a 0 as a placeholder when there is not letter.
First, a sample (the comp motor mount):
Mazda - FBY1-39-040
Mazdatrix - 39-0400-FBY1
The last 4 of the mazdatrix # is the 1st 4 of the mazda number, the rest is the same. If, after you translate the number, there is a 0 at the end (like in this number) then you just leave it off. Here is why: Some mazda mart numbers have a letter at the end, like the stock motor mounts - FB01-39-040A (or 39-040A-FB01 for mazdatrix). In order to have the same number of characters in the part number, mazdatrix puts in a 0 as a placeholder when there is not letter.
#18
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Well that doesn't sound right. Were they used, or new? If used, then maybe just bad luck, if new then maybe something else is broken and is causing more than normal stress on the driveshaft, I'd get it checked out if I were you.
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Good thread guys
I've got a MS account and they got some good pricing on there.
But has anyone used Banzai's mounts?
http://www.banzai-racing.com/polyfc_motor_mounts.htm
I was going to use them but their price is alot higher
I've got a MS account and they got some good pricing on there.
But has anyone used Banzai's mounts?
http://www.banzai-racing.com/polyfc_motor_mounts.htm
I was going to use them but their price is alot higher
#20
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they were used. This car has been through a few of them. I dont know what it could be besides excessive wear from stop and go traffic...this car has spent most of its life idling in traffic. it usually takes me fifteen minutes to get to work and i live less than 2 miles from my job...seriously. ive actually been walking recently lol.
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Damn the MS pricing kicks ***!!!!!
Here are the total part numbers and such I've got for anyones future reference.
FCY1-28-680 @ MOUNT, DIFF. (FRT)
FBY1-28-890 @ MOUNT, DIFF (REAR) (2)
FBY1-39-040 @ RUBBER, MTG (2) (Motor mounts)
FBY1-39-340 @ RUBBER, T/MISSION (2)
F044-39-370D MEMBER,T/MISSION MT
Here are the total part numbers and such I've got for anyones future reference.
FCY1-28-680 @ MOUNT, DIFF. (FRT)
FBY1-28-890 @ MOUNT, DIFF (REAR) (2)
FBY1-39-040 @ RUBBER, MTG (2) (Motor mounts)
FBY1-39-340 @ RUBBER, T/MISSION (2)
F044-39-370D MEMBER,T/MISSION MT
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