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Cold start equipment

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Old Feb 22, 2009 | 09:19 AM
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Cold start equipment

It appears that my car still has the cold start equipment that the factory was supposed to remove.

Has anyone else come across this? Our local rx7 guru said it would be best to remove it, as the factory was supposed to.

Any info would be great, thanks
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Old Feb 22, 2009 | 10:56 AM
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Are you referring to the cold start reservoir? If so, nothing is hurt by it being in place. It's easy to remove, however. Just disconnect the tube and electrical connector, yank the reservoir off the bracket, and then place a vacuum cap over the nipple on the manifold.
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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
Are you referring to the cold start reservoir? If so, nothing is hurt by it being in place. It's easy to remove, however. Just disconnect the tube and electrical connector, yank the reservoir off the bracket, and then place a vacuum cap over the nipple on the manifold.
reviving dead thread instead of making one but...
will removing it change how the system starts or anything like that?
debating removing myne but not sure if i want to.
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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Zanity
reviving dead thread instead of making one but...
will removing it change how the system starts or anything like that?
debating removing myne but not sure if i want to.
If you're asking about the system that injects coolant into the engine to assist in starting when the temps are cold it does not affect the start up of the car in any negative manner.
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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 11:53 PM
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From: Springtuckey
if you are leaving the original injector on the UIM (ie not using a block plate) just make sure there are no vacuum leaks around it. otherwise you can pull the reservoir and wiring/plumbing out.
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 12:28 AM
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hm, well is there anyway to not have it jump to high idle at first start?
winters in Colorado are cold so it stays up there for a while; thats all fine and stuff but i have a really loud exhaust and would rather wait for it to warm up at normal idle.
i think my neighbors are gonna shoot my car/me otherwise this winter.
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 12:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Zanity
hm, well is there anyway to not have it jump to high idle at first start?
winters in Colorado are cold so it stays up there for a while; thats all fine and stuff but i have a really loud exhaust and would rather wait for it to warm up at normal idle.
i think my neighbors are gonna shoot my car/me otherwise this winter.
You're confusing the different systems on the car. The manufacturer advised the cars equipped with the coolant injection system to be disabled but that is not the same as the system which causes the car to rev to 3000 rpm for seventeen seconds upon start up. That particular system is overridden if the temp of the coolant drops below 60 degrees so by the time winter rolls around it shouldn't activate upon start up. Starting the car in gear works to defeat the system for some, while for others just tapping on the throttle works to defeat it as well.
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Zanity
hm, well is there anyway to not have it jump to high idle at first start?
winters in Colorado are cold so it stays up there for a while; thats all fine and stuff but i have a really loud exhaust and would rather wait for it to warm up at normal idle.
i think my neighbors are gonna shoot my car/me otherwise this winter.
Yeah, I'm from CO also and I understand. The only way to get rid of the AWS (accelerated warmup system) easily is to get RTek. http://pocketlogger.com/index.php?pid=rtek7

Don't know if that's something you have thought of. I believe it is worth the money.
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by RX7Racer46
Yeah, I'm from CO also and I understand. The only way to get rid of the AWS (accelerated warmup system) easily is to get RTek. http://pocketlogger.com/index.php?pid=rtek7

Don't know if that's something you have thought of. I believe it is worth the money.
wouldn't an rtek mean i have to premix on a s5 n/a?
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Old Oct 15, 2010 | 08:44 AM
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From: Bremerton, WA
Originally Posted by Zanity
wouldn't an rtek mean i have to premix on a s5 n/a?
No, you can get it without the MOP removal.
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Old Oct 15, 2010 | 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by RX7Racer46
Yeah, I'm from CO also and I understand. The only way to get rid of the AWS (accelerated warmup system) easily is to get RTek. http://pocketlogger.com/index.php?pid=rtek7

Don't know if that's something you have thought of. I believe it is worth the money.
You sir are incorrect. JDM engines are not equipped with AWS. The easiest way to remove it, is to simply remove it. It does NOT require any ecu mods to remove it and cap off the vac nipples.

To remove the 17 sec. startup/rev sequence you may need an ecu to remove, but it's to get the oil flowing through your motor on start-up so I would not recommend deleting that option.
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Old Oct 15, 2010 | 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by LunchboxCritter
To remove the 17 sec. startup/rev sequence you may need an ecu to remove, but it's to get the oil flowing through your motor on start-up so I would not recommend deleting that option.
I think the main purpose of the AWS is to fire off the cats and reduce emissions, not to "prime" the oil system.
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Old Oct 15, 2010 | 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by clokker
I think the main purpose of the AWS is to fire off the cats and reduce emissions, not to "prime" the oil system.
I think thats the job of the secondary air injection not the AWS. The AWS is hooked up directly to the oil injectors. It causes a pressure change at the top of the oil injectors to open them more probably. I never really checked. What does it matter if the engine starts up and holds an idle when you first start it? I never understood this question. All engines do that.

On mine you can cancel it but just tapping the gas pedal. It starts then trys to climb up a quick jab on the pedal and it drops the idle down to normal. BTW if you take all that stuff off you will have to hold the throttle to warm the car up in the mornings when its cold.

Alot of guys say to get rid of the AWS because the engine might not be oiling fully yet and the RPM is sometimes kinda high. I personally don't think it matters much.
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Old Oct 15, 2010 | 06:44 PM
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tapping the gas doesn't reduce the rpms much for me on really cold days.
but putting the car in gear when starting seems to help more though.
i dont mind a slightly higher rpm but last winter it stayed up at like 3.5 rpms for a long time no matter what.
at now with a loud exhaust i can foresee my neighbors slashing my tires or something for waking them up at 430-530am everyday.
im gonna get a new exhaust but highly doubt i will get it before the cold cold days come considering they were already here by this time last winter.
thus is my dilemma.
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Old Oct 16, 2010 | 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Skidtron
I think thats the job of the secondary air injection not the AWS. The AWS is hooked up directly to the oil injectors. It causes a pressure change at the top of the oil injectors to open them more probably. I never really checked. What does it matter if the engine starts up and holds an idle when you first start it? I never understood this question. All engines do that.
The AWS has NOTHING to do with the metering oil system. Nothing.
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