cold start assist takes tooooooo long!
i got a new thermostat and i was hoping it would change the warm up procedure a bit but i guess i was wrong. is there anything i could do so i dont have to wait 10 mins for my car to warm up?
i dunno it just takes too damm long for the idle to get down, i just wish i knew a way to disable the cold start assist. stupid ecu, it thinks we live in freakin alaska and i dont want to drive around til my rpms drop, that sounds a bit risky.
there are 3 different things....
the cold start assist is a fluid bottle which is useless and never used. it's not what you mean.
acclerated warm up is when the car revs to 3000 at start up and stays there for a few secs to maybe 30. this is really bad. always start the car in gear to prevent this from happening. it's controled by the ECU.
3rd is the fast idle. this idles the car at 1500 untill it's fully warm. this is a mech. thing and has nothing to do with the ECU.
if you want it to warm up faster. drive the dam thing. leting it idle is the worst thing you can do. 1/4 throttle and 3000rpm max till the idle drops. yes it takes 5-10 mins.
the cold start assist is a fluid bottle which is useless and never used. it's not what you mean.
acclerated warm up is when the car revs to 3000 at start up and stays there for a few secs to maybe 30. this is really bad. always start the car in gear to prevent this from happening. it's controled by the ECU.
3rd is the fast idle. this idles the car at 1500 untill it's fully warm. this is a mech. thing and has nothing to do with the ECU.
if you want it to warm up faster. drive the dam thing. leting it idle is the worst thing you can do. 1/4 throttle and 3000rpm max till the idle drops. yes it takes 5-10 mins.
There are several ways to disable the 3K warm-up:
1) disconnect at least one connector from the radiator water temp switch, in the lower left hand corner.
2) disconnect the plug from the bottom of the air bypass solenoid relay, forward of the intake, behind the right headlight area
3) remove the air bypass solenoid valve, and plug the openings (or, just pull the connector off)
4) everything else that's already been said, lol
Note # 2 & 3 is not a good idea if you still have power steering on the car
1) disconnect at least one connector from the radiator water temp switch, in the lower left hand corner.
2) disconnect the plug from the bottom of the air bypass solenoid relay, forward of the intake, behind the right headlight area
3) remove the air bypass solenoid valve, and plug the openings (or, just pull the connector off)
4) everything else that's already been said, lol
Note # 2 & 3 is not a good idea if you still have power steering on the car
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Originally Posted by DerangedHermit
Unless I've been misinformed (quite possible) Mazda sent out a bulletin saying that the AWS is bad and should be removed.
AWS gets the engine warm enough to drive so you're not driving harshly on a cold engine. Its a good thing, not a bad thing.
EDIT:
Service Bulletin Number: C5-018/88
Bulletin Sequence Number: 081
Date of Bulletin: 8810
NHTSA Item Number: SB004773
Make: MAZDA
Model: RX7
Year: 1988
Component: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:IGNITION:OTHER PART
Summary: HARD START WITH COLD ENGINE CORRECTIVE ACTION IF COMPLAINS
OF HARD STARTING IN COLD
WEATHER: RESTARTING AFTER
SHORT DISTANCE DRIVING AND AFTER MOVING FROM GARAGE, STOPPING ENGINE
THEN RESTARTING-CHANGE
SPARK PLUG TO NEW AIR GAP
TYPE-DISCONNECT SUB ZERO STARING ASSIST DEVICE (IF EQUIPPED)-ALL 1986
TO 1988 MAZDA RX7 MODELS TLH
ALSO TSB: # F00590 JUN 90 Sub Zero Starting Assist Device - Discontinued
Second...as far as that stupid cold start assist sub zero BS there are TSB's that recommend removing it and plugging the line. I have never seen one work, and they stopped installing them in about 1990 for the most part, and some cars never got them at all before that. I always take them off, and sometimes I test the motors...the dc motor is usually no good anway, so it couldnt pump anytihing if it wanted.
Kevin Landers Morristown, TN
Rotary Resurrection, FC repair and parts
Kevin Landers Morristown, TN
Rotary Resurrection, FC repair and parts
Last edited by Kenteth; Oct 4, 2004 at 12:52 AM.
Originally Posted by Kenteth
No. They did however send out a bulletin saying the Cold-Start-Assist(Sub-Zero injector) should be removed. That is *completely* different.
AWS gets the engine warm enough to drive so you're not driving harshly on a cold engine. Its a good thing, not a bad thing.
EDIT:
Service Bulletin Number: C5-018/88
Bulletin Sequence Number: 081
Date of Bulletin: 8810
NHTSA Item Number: SB004773
Make: MAZDA
Model: RX7
Year: 1988
Component: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:IGNITION:OTHER PART
Summary: HARD START WITH COLD ENGINE CORRECTIVE ACTION IF COMPLAINS
OF HARD STARTING IN COLD
WEATHER: RESTARTING AFTER
SHORT DISTANCE DRIVING AND AFTER MOVING FROM GARAGE, STOPPING ENGINE
THEN RESTARTING-CHANGE
SPARK PLUG TO NEW AIR GAP
TYPE-DISCONNECT SUB ZERO STARING ASSIST DEVICE (IF EQUIPPED)-ALL 1986
TO 1988 MAZDA RX7 MODELS TLH
ALSO TSB: # F00590 JUN 90 Sub Zero Starting Assist Device - Discontinued
AWS gets the engine warm enough to drive so you're not driving harshly on a cold engine. Its a good thing, not a bad thing.
EDIT:
Service Bulletin Number: C5-018/88
Bulletin Sequence Number: 081
Date of Bulletin: 8810
NHTSA Item Number: SB004773
Make: MAZDA
Model: RX7
Year: 1988
Component: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:IGNITION:OTHER PART
Summary: HARD START WITH COLD ENGINE CORRECTIVE ACTION IF COMPLAINS
OF HARD STARTING IN COLD
WEATHER: RESTARTING AFTER
SHORT DISTANCE DRIVING AND AFTER MOVING FROM GARAGE, STOPPING ENGINE
THEN RESTARTING-CHANGE
SPARK PLUG TO NEW AIR GAP
TYPE-DISCONNECT SUB ZERO STARING ASSIST DEVICE (IF EQUIPPED)-ALL 1986
TO 1988 MAZDA RX7 MODELS TLH
ALSO TSB: # F00590 JUN 90 Sub Zero Starting Assist Device - Discontinued
thanks to all for the helpful info. i started my car in gear earlier and it idles at 2k, then after 2 mins or so i just drove off and it went down eventually in about 5 mins or so.is that normal?
Originally Posted by Kenteth
AWS gets the engine warm enough to drive so you're not driving harshly on a cold engine. Its a good thing, not a bad thing.
something wierd happened today, as most of u know i changed my thermostat a couple days ago, my temp guage always goes to the 1/4th mark, but today it barely went up .just barely before 1/4 mark, and i was driving her pretty hard it didnt go up any further like it use to, is this normal for a new thermostat??
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