Coilovers for street/track
Originally Posted by RyoFC3S
I second this completely. I've been planning on the exact same thing for a long time for the same reasons.
so.. the coils are $400 for all 4? then how much are shocks?
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,598
Likes: 10
From: Temple, Texas (Central)
Heres the GC coilover kit: http://www.ground-control-store.com/...hp/II=41/CA=87 Its 400 for the set.
Originally Posted by Xbladr
and you can get a set of shocks all 4 for like 280 or so... so at that rate your only looking at like 680 compared to 1k plus thats a pretty big jump

what kind/from where/ new?
or is that just an estimation for used ones?
$680 sure sounds better than 1,000
i found these on ebay at a pretty good price.. .about $340 for the set...
http://www.kyb.com/products/detail.php?ID=4
think they would be good?
http://www.kyb.com/products/detail.php?ID=4
think they would be good?
i've heard the kyb and tokico shocks are pretty good if you are going with relatively low spring rates. the Koni's offer very stiff damping that could work out better with higher spring rates. so basically they would work very well on the track.
and like i said, they can also be expanded upon and rebuilt. but the kyb adjustables and tokico 5-position shocks would give you a nice setup for a good price.
and like i said, they can also be expanded upon and rebuilt. but the kyb adjustables and tokico 5-position shocks would give you a nice setup for a good price.
Originally Posted by coldfire
but the kyb adjustables and tokico 5-position shocks would give you a nice setup for a good price.
i'm heavily considering this... but im worried that 1.5" drop isnt enough?
my car is being built for street/drift/and once a month track times...
camber plates would also need to be bought, where can i get them?
Originally Posted by turbo-polak
i'm heavily considering this... but im worried that 1.5" drop isnt enough?
my car is being built for street/drift/and once a month track times...
camber plates would also need to be bought, where can i get them?
my car is being built for street/drift/and once a month track times...
camber plates would also need to be bought, where can i get them?

i can't really answer your question about the 1.5 inch drop...it depends on your application and i haven't looked into it that much. like i said, for most applications going lower than 1.5 inch or so you will need some sort of camber correction in the rear otherwise grip and tire wear will suffer.
as for camber plates, Ground Control sells them also, you can check those out.
Originally Posted by coldfire
i can't really answer your question about the 1.5 inch drop...it depends on your application and i haven't looked into it that much. like i said, for most applications going lower than 1.5 inch or so you will need some sort of camber correction in the rear otherwise grip and tire wear will suffer.
as for camber plates, Ground Control sells them also, you can check those out.
as for camber plates, Ground Control sells them also, you can check those out.
thats why i will have the RB rear camber adjuster
i just put a set of kei office XR series on my 91 n/a, they feel awesome, the car feels like it is glued to the ground, slightly bouncy ride, wouldnt say its rough, i really dont mind the ride but all in all i like them a lot, got them used in japan for about $500
Originally Posted by coldfire
i've heard the kyb and tokico shocks are pretty good if you are going with relatively low spring rates. the Koni's offer very stiff damping that could work out better with higher spring rates. so basically they would work very well on the track.
and like i said, they can also be expanded upon and rebuilt. but the kyb adjustables and tokico 5-position shocks would give you a nice setup for a good price.
and like i said, they can also be expanded upon and rebuilt. but the kyb adjustables and tokico 5-position shocks would give you a nice setup for a good price.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KYB-A...22288697QQrdZ1
im lost in which spring rates and whatever to get... so help me out please
the thing about rear camber adjustment with the FCs is that you can only do so much. those RB adjusters won't give you TOO much room to work with.
as for spring rates, i haven't really looked into that myself. i will be when the time comes...like i said i'm sure the suspension forum might be able to help you.
also, you can even call the GC guys and they should be able to give you some good advice.
those KYBs are fine. like i said they aren't as stiff and don't offer the same options as the Konis, but are cheaper.
as for spring rates, i haven't really looked into that myself. i will be when the time comes...like i said i'm sure the suspension forum might be able to help you.
also, you can even call the GC guys and they should be able to give you some good advice.
those KYBs are fine. like i said they aren't as stiff and don't offer the same options as the Konis, but are cheaper.
Last edited by coldfire; Dec 21, 2005 at 08:46 PM.
I run an FC in SCCA ITS class. Shocks are KYB AGX (385 delivered Ebay) 4 settings front 8 settings rear, single adjustable, GC camber/caster plates, GC coil over kits, Eibach springs 450lb x 6 " x 2.5" front, 325lb x 7" x 2.5" rear. The coil overs will allow you to change ride height for street or track by 2-3 inches. Shocks are usually set at 1 or 2 in front and 3-5 in rear. This is way too stiff for street but as you can see the shocks will take less or more spring.
I would not run anything stiffer than 350/250 for the street and track unless you are using race tires at the track. You can change these springs quite easily and the springs are only $59 each.
It is very important that you change the front sway bar. Go stiffer!!! and try disconnecting the rear at the track to see how much better the car is.
This may seem like a less than optimal set up for a race car, but this car consistenly finishes on the podium in a hotly contested class.
More dollars does not mean better.
The KYB's are cheap and work great.
I recently ran this same setup on another FC I built for the NASA 25hr Enduro at T-Hill. The car finished 1st in class E0 and beat many World Challenge BMW's and Honda's. Not with speed but with reliability and fuel milage.
The rear camber can be adjusted with either a single adjustable center rod ($90)or by replacing the short inner control arm link with adjustable ones from MazdaTrix ($178).
You can also just use the KYB AGX with the stock springs and cut them to the wanted ride height. Shortening the spring will increase the spring rate slightly. But more importantly it will lower the CG. The front sway bar is more important than you think.
Have fun.
I would not run anything stiffer than 350/250 for the street and track unless you are using race tires at the track. You can change these springs quite easily and the springs are only $59 each.
It is very important that you change the front sway bar. Go stiffer!!! and try disconnecting the rear at the track to see how much better the car is.
This may seem like a less than optimal set up for a race car, but this car consistenly finishes on the podium in a hotly contested class.
More dollars does not mean better.
The KYB's are cheap and work great.
I recently ran this same setup on another FC I built for the NASA 25hr Enduro at T-Hill. The car finished 1st in class E0 and beat many World Challenge BMW's and Honda's. Not with speed but with reliability and fuel milage.
The rear camber can be adjusted with either a single adjustable center rod ($90)or by replacing the short inner control arm link with adjustable ones from MazdaTrix ($178).
You can also just use the KYB AGX with the stock springs and cut them to the wanted ride height. Shortening the spring will increase the spring rate slightly. But more importantly it will lower the CG. The front sway bar is more important than you think.
Have fun.
Also very important for track use is to buy the rear steer eliminator bushings from MazdaTrix or anywhere else. This is one of the keys to a great handling FC. All the other bushings are quite good for track use. Many of these cars race on the stock bushings.
Originally Posted by Buzzin
I run an FC in SCCA ITS class. Shocks are KYB AGX (385 delivered Ebay) 4 settings front 8 settings rear, single adjustable, GC camber/caster plates, GC coil over kits, Eibach springs 450lb x 6 " x 2.5" front, 325lb x 7" x 2.5" rear. The coil overs will allow you to change ride height for street or track by 2-3 inches. Shocks are usually set at 1 or 2 in front and 3-5 in rear. This is way too stiff for street but as you can see the shocks will take less or more spring.
I would not run anything stiffer than 350/250 for the street and track unless you are using race tires at the track. You can change these springs quite easily and the springs are only $59 each.
.
I would not run anything stiffer than 350/250 for the street and track unless you are using race tires at the track. You can change these springs quite easily and the springs are only $59 each.
.
but the coilovers come with the springs, dont they? my friend who his dad has raced mazda's for about 10-15 years told me that i can cut off the strut and re-weld it lower or something... thats what they did with all of their racecars... they're lowered about 4 inches
what i dont understand is how GC can quote 0-1.5" of drop... doesnt it depend on where the strut is on the shock and where the spring sits?
how does buying eibach springs help this?
so basically you spent:
1.) $400- GC coilovers
2.) $240- eibach springs
3.) $380- KYB AGX shocks
4.) $200 camber/caster plates
correct?
that isnt cheaper than a full/real set of coilovers...
400,240,380,200=$1,220 roughly?
Originally Posted by coldfire
correct me if i'm wrong but the GC coilovers come with the eibach springs...you choose what you want when you buy them.
i was told that i would need a minimum of about a 2.5-3" drop for drifting to perform well....
Originally Posted by turbo-polak
the only thing i was worried about with the GC coilovers was the height...
i was told that i would need a minimum of about a 2.5-3" drop for drifting to perform well....
i was told that i would need a minimum of about a 2.5-3" drop for drifting to perform well....
i'm sure that was a general statement. the RX-7 is already fairly low. different cars will need different amounts of drop..
and my last post was meant to imply that the springs were included WITH the coilovers in the $400 cost...
Originally Posted by coldfire
i'm sure that was a general statement. the RX-7 is already fairly low. different cars will need different amounts of drop..
and my last post was meant to imply that the springs were included WITH the coilovers in the $400 cost...
and my last post was meant to imply that the springs were included WITH the coilovers in the $400 cost...
i want the car to be pretty damn low... and thats the only concern i have with the GC coilovers.... i really like the idea of piecing the coilover setup together, because it saves a bunch of money, because i'm an 18 y/o college student with a PT job...
basically, i wanted to have little to no wheel gap with the 17's i will be getting
because IMO, that is really ugly when cars have aftermarket wheels and have HUGe wheel gap





