So after about 2 months of trying everything i could think of, I've finally found what seems to have been causing my terrible idling problems This little bugger right here.





After removing the wire from it, the idle stayed at about 400 RPM or less, and then would die. However, bridging the plug with a paper clip and some electrical tape has kept the idle nice and smooth, even with lights, radio, and AC going full blast. So my question is, would any damage come from just leaving it bridged like that, and maybe bridging it with actual wire later down the line? Or would it be worth it to get a new switch. From what I've read, all this does is tell the Cruise Control that the clutch is pressed down, and nothing else, correct me if I'm wrong there.

And of the clutch switches, ever since I did the tranny swap, my car doesn't go through the accelerated start up anymore either. Would that be related to this somehow? I know a lot of people delete that system anyways, but the fact I didn't and it stopped working has me a tad confused, as well as when I first start the car, I have to rev it up once when the idle falls down, or it will stall. After that however, it settles in its normal spot of 750-800 RPM.

 

Which switch is this? The one that is depressed when you push the clutch pedal all the way in, or the one that is depressed when you have your foot off the clutch?

Also, what year is your car? Turbo or non turbo?

 

The one that's depressed when my foot is off the clutch.

1991, Non-turbo.

Only thing I noticed is that my cruise control no longer works, I assume because with the bridge it thinks the clutch is always depressed?

 

YES, YES. AND YES TO ALL OF YOUR OWN ANSWERS. If im not mistaken this can that switch can effect all of your concerns.

 

If it's just Cruise Control, then I'm not really too concerned as the only time I've actually used it was on a trip to LA I took. But what could be damaged from just leaving it bridged? I'll get a new switch in a few weeks when I have the money, but I'd like to know if it's safe to drive it till then.

 

The ONLY cruise control I use is the "hey..notice that cop behind you"..(easy now STYX..eaaassssyyyy!)

 

Seems like you've figured it out, but you can do a switch operations test using the CEL in the future. I would recommend buying a new switch. Don't band-aid the problem, repair it properly.

 

I don't think it would cause any issues but as in NCross said don't rig it, fix it right. If it is not your daily driver I would just park it for a couple weeks until you can put a switch in it that way you don't accidentally burn something else up because it is jumped

 

the ECU uses that switch to determine that the engine is idling, also the cruise control.

take it apart, the spring is just a ball point pen spring, so its an easy fix

 

It can be taken apart? Well I'll probably try that tomorrow, and if I can't then I'll just grab a new one.

Unfortunately, it is my daily at the moment. The Supra I bought to replace it as a daily is having a bit more trouble than I bargained for, and isn't passing smog properly. I'll try and see what I can do about it over the weekend.

How can I test individual switches? Kinda curious now, as I've never really worked with the CELs before. I'll get a new switch over the weekend if I can then.

 

It's been many years since I've done it..., but I think you jumper the test connector near the trailing coil, and... I forget the rest...

 

Remember that your car will now start in gear without the clutch depressed. So if someone doesn't have the habit of putting it in neutral and/or stepping on the clutch before starting, you could have a problem.

 

I'll look it up, thanks though!

Nonono, that's the other switch that's further up and against the firewall. I still can't start it if the clutch isn't pushed down.

 

Alright, so it wasn't the switch, but it is for sure related to it. New switch came in today, I go and hooked it up along with a new rubber bump on the pedal. And well, now all the old symptoms came back, as you can see in the vid. Anyone got any ideas on where I should look at next?
I got a bit mixed up on in and out due to very little sleep. But in is foot off the pedal, out is pedal all the way down.

 

Does it do this when turning the steering wheel, coming to a stop, or cutting on the A/C too? If so... your car needs a new BAC.

 

Yes, yes, and...kinda. Turning the AC on with the headlights steadies the idle, but the voltages drop to about 12.7 volts from the autozone test. I was really hoping it wasn't the BAC valve since I already took one from a parts car I had bought, with helped stop the car from stalling when I turned the AC on, so I thought it had been fixed. If you're saying that's probably it, then I'ma be one sad and broke camper.

 

So, one last round of opinions before I sacrifice my wallet to the Dorito gods. After taking off the BAC Valve and cleaning it with some carb cleaner, then putting it back on, this was the result.
At first, it's unplugged, then I plug it in, then unplug it again. Is this BAC Valve absolutely shot?