Clutch Pedal Position Sensor?
#1
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Clutch Pedal Position Sensor?
So after about 2 months of trying everything i could think of, I've finally found what seems to have been causing my terrible idling problems This little bugger right here.
After removing the wire from it, the idle stayed at about 400 RPM or less, and then would die. However, bridging the plug with a paper clip and some electrical tape has kept the idle nice and smooth, even with lights, radio, and AC going full blast. So my question is, would any damage come from just leaving it bridged like that, and maybe bridging it with actual wire later down the line? Or would it be worth it to get a new switch. From what I've read, all this does is tell the Cruise Control that the clutch is pressed down, and nothing else, correct me if I'm wrong there.
And of the clutch switches, ever since I did the tranny swap, my car doesn't go through the accelerated start up anymore either. Would that be related to this somehow? I know a lot of people delete that system anyways, but the fact I didn't and it stopped working has me a tad confused, as well as when I first start the car, I have to rev it up once when the idle falls down, or it will stall. After that however, it settles in its normal spot of 750-800 RPM.
After removing the wire from it, the idle stayed at about 400 RPM or less, and then would die. However, bridging the plug with a paper clip and some electrical tape has kept the idle nice and smooth, even with lights, radio, and AC going full blast. So my question is, would any damage come from just leaving it bridged like that, and maybe bridging it with actual wire later down the line? Or would it be worth it to get a new switch. From what I've read, all this does is tell the Cruise Control that the clutch is pressed down, and nothing else, correct me if I'm wrong there.
And of the clutch switches, ever since I did the tranny swap, my car doesn't go through the accelerated start up anymore either. Would that be related to this somehow? I know a lot of people delete that system anyways, but the fact I didn't and it stopped working has me a tad confused, as well as when I first start the car, I have to rev it up once when the idle falls down, or it will stall. After that however, it settles in its normal spot of 750-800 RPM.
#3
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1991, Non-turbo.
Only thing I noticed is that my cruise control no longer works, I assume because with the bridge it thinks the clutch is always depressed?
Last edited by Saminya; 09-28-17 at 07:24 AM.
#5
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If it's just Cruise Control, then I'm not really too concerned as the only time I've actually used it was on a trip to LA I took. But what could be damaged from just leaving it bridged? I'll get a new switch in a few weeks when I have the money, but I'd like to know if it's safe to drive it till then.
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#8
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I don't think it would cause any issues but as in NCross said don't rig it, fix it right. If it is not your daily driver I would just park it for a couple weeks until you can put a switch in it that way you don't accidentally burn something else up because it is jumped
#9
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the ECU uses that switch to determine that the engine is idling, also the cruise control.
take it apart, the spring is just a ball point pen spring, so its an easy fix
take it apart, the spring is just a ball point pen spring, so its an easy fix
#10
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I don't think it would cause any issues but as in NCross said don't rig it, fix it right. If it is not your daily driver I would just park it for a couple weeks until you can put a switch in it that way you don't accidentally burn something else up because it is jumped
How can I test individual switches? Kinda curious now, as I've never really worked with the CELs before. I'll get a new switch over the weekend if I can then.
#13
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Nonono, that's the other switch that's further up and against the firewall. I still can't start it if the clutch isn't pushed down.
#14
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Alright, so it wasn't the switch, but it is for sure related to it. New switch came in today, I go and hooked it up along with a new rubber bump on the pedal. And well, now all the old symptoms came back, as you can see in the vid. Anyone got any ideas on where I should look at next?
I got a bit mixed up on in and out due to very little sleep. But in is foot off the pedal, out is pedal all the way down.
I got a bit mixed up on in and out due to very little sleep. But in is foot off the pedal, out is pedal all the way down.
#15
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Alright, so it wasn't the switch, but it is for sure related to it. New switch came in today, I go and hooked it up along with a new rubber bump on the pedal. And well, now all the old symptoms came back, as you can see in the vid. Anyone got any ideas on where I should look at next?
I got a bit mixed up on in and out due to very little sleep. But in is foot off the pedal, out is pedal all the way down.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_18SX-AyHQ
I got a bit mixed up on in and out due to very little sleep. But in is foot off the pedal, out is pedal all the way down.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_18SX-AyHQ
#16
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Yes, yes, and...kinda. Turning the AC on with the headlights steadies the idle, but the voltages drop to about 12.7 volts from the autozone test. I was really hoping it wasn't the BAC valve since I already took one from a parts car I had bought, with helped stop the car from stalling when I turned the AC on, so I thought it had been fixed. If you're saying that's probably it, then I'ma be one sad and broke camper.
#17
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So, one last round of opinions before I sacrifice my wallet to the Dorito gods. After taking off the BAC Valve and cleaning it with some carb cleaner, then putting it back on, this was the result.
At first, it's unplugged, then I plug it in, then unplug it again. Is this BAC Valve absolutely shot?
At first, it's unplugged, then I plug it in, then unplug it again. Is this BAC Valve absolutely shot?