Clutch started sticking to the floor about a week ago...Rebuilt clutch master cyl.....worked fine until this morning....Rebuilt slave cyl...Bled and bled and bled till I could bleed no more...It stopped sticking to the floor until....I started it up....wtf?....Now it only lets me engage the clutch after it sticks to the floor a couple of times and i pull it up.If I hold the pedal I can feel it bleed off...Yet there are no leaks from the master to the slave...and one more quirk....when I push in the clutch a little,the rpms raise to about 1100....and I repeat..there are no leaks.any Ideas,comments,critisizms.or Bulls**t(I shouldnt have said that) will be greatly appreciated.

 

there are no leaks in the line? Is the bleeder screw thing completely closed? It may be better to get a new master, slave and new lines.

 

i have a new master cylinder if you want it. i thought mine went bad but turned out to be a pilot bearing problem. maybe we can work something out.

 

Did you physically play with the fork arm when you had the slave out? Ya know, make sure the arm is still pivoting on the tranny front cover "ball", make sure it actually made contact with the pressure plate & then became hard to move, that kinda thing....Did you see any rust or rough spots inside the cylinder bores when you rebuilt them? Did you put the return springs in correctly when you rebuilt 'em?

 

uh....fork moves fine,cylider bores fine,rebuilt right.when the clutch sticks,unable to get in or out of gear.Really cant see it being fork or throw out bearing

 

If hydraulics are good, time to pull the tranny & take a good look inside, especially the fork pivot point & the pressure plate...Your symptoms actually sound like a bleeding problem, though...

 

just got off the phone with my brother(I got the car from him) He said he had the same problem withit about 6 months ago...He replaced the slave and it didnt help,then he rebuilt the master and it was fine until now....I replaced the cluth,pressure plate and bearing for him about a year ago.

 

All right, do this- instead of that tube-in-a-bottle BS while bleeding, just put your finger on the bleeder, keep it there, crack it open, perform 10 to 20 clutch cycles keeping the reservoir full, then tighten the bleeder back down, remove your finger, clean up the mess you just made all over your tranny, then see if she works...If it still doesn't work, you've got a rebuild problem, or an internal tranny/clutch component problem...

 

Thats how I bled it...never did believe in that other way...I think I may have found A hair line crack in the steel line coming off the master cyl....Its pretty nicked up and I can see the seam of the tube on the flare on up the tube for about an inch..Could be sucking air..I take it this will be a junk yard item,cant find the steel line on the net.I'm going to go ahead and replace the master and the slave this weekend...Just have to suffer driving the Bronco(9 mpg...uuuuggghhh!) the rest of the week.....Thanks for the info...

 

sounds like bypassing cup seals...

 

Dude, if it's a defect bad enough to suck in air, it should be spewing pressurized fluid when the pedal is pushed...

 

Thats just it....no fluid leak....see what happens after this weekend....

 

have a look at the clutch disk.

my car was doing exactly this a year ago, the (brand new!) clutch disk had ripped itself apart and the pieces were holding the pressure plate apart.