rotor_veux

iTrader: (3)

Hello, After installing my clutch pack would be a "USED" ORC 409 with cf friction disk.

One problems exist: Hot spots prior to the setup and still reasonably unchanged after few travels.

The only time I get chatter; and when I do it hits hard. Is when I'm off the gas at most times not always.
It chugs severely; but If I was to slightly open the throttle it would go away...

As for example: I go into first let off with sounds of slippage due to carbon fiber friction disk being cold, feels good can't complain, get up though all gears fine above 50-60kmh. Once coasting into forth or any other gear I will notice chatter more so into lower speeds.

If you engage when chatter is happening it goes away to an extent. I'm getting confused as every-time I come to a stop I start I experience this otherwise It shows no issues. Maybe it's just me not having fly wheel machined to spec or the fact of minor hot spots, but I have used similar packs with similar problems with no such troubles.

I can only see myself replacing pressure plate and getting a new friction disk and go ahead, Unless this sounds like I just need flywheel machined? *brand new bearing btw*

jjwalker

Motor and transmission mounts good?

Before I rebuilt my engine, one of my engine mounts was torn (not totally gone, just torn) and when the clutch was nice and warm, the clutch would chatter like a crazed mother. I replaced them with the mazda comp mounts and it totally went away.

To give an example of how bad it was with that one slightly torn mount, it would start resonating and cause a metal banging sound.

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

^ I'm with him. Mounts are #1, and don't ignore the tranny mounts.

I replaced my engine mounts, still had chatter. Lived with it for a few years. Then got a stock replacement set last year, had the flywheel machined (previously skipped that step), and the chatter is much less. Still have to replace my tranny mounts. Quite sure that's the last bit of the problem.

But having said all that, you're describing something else...not chatter per say. Chatter is when you're engaging the clutch (releasing pedal), just when the disk is beginning to be grabbed between the pressure plate and flywheel. Mine was bad when nice and warm (after driving in traffic) and worse when engaging the clutch to back up. Whereas you're describing coasting with clutch engaged (pedal released completely) and getting the shakes.

jjwalker

If you slam down on the clutch pedal, the clutch disc will resonate, so I think he may be just slamming the pedal down. My whole drive train at this point is brand new (12k miles or so) and if I slam down the clutch pedal, the clutch disc will slap back and forth between the pressure plate and flywheel.

It will make a "clud clud clud" sound. I have never driven a manual trans vehicle that would not do that when you go hulk smash on the clutch pedal.

rotor_veux

iTrader: (3)

Ok, So lets update this.

Motor mounts (POLY NEW)
Transmission mounts their good. BUT!@#!@#@!@#

When, I reinstalled the transmission and bled the clutch it was sooooooo stiff. It isn't stiff as before but I do get lots of travel with my tranny mount. *When you depress you get lots of engine movement*

But I can't see that being the problem as I only get chatter when off the gas/ decelerating. (WHILE ONLY IN GEAR to add notes)

I do not get any chatter when accelerating or when the clutch is engaging, just if the chatter/shutter is commencing while slowing down.

I find It strange as I take off to go I don't get any chatter but when I come to a stop I will get shuttering, So naturally I hold down the petal while downshifting and braking to ease the heavy quakes it produces. Thud thud thud thud thud... if you will.


I've had poorly installed setups but never only in staged chatter, eather I get feedback from the flywheel and or in neutral but, in this case it's just decelerating prone.

rotor_veux

iTrader: (3)

I was scouring the interweb when I thought of check with several manufactures. This was a very useful one for me.

Why? When I'm not in gear their is no problems. At low speeds you'll notice such as RACEKAR!

Carbon fiber disc. Being the reason, using this topic because, i don't seem to find locals with similar setups, 99% of users use north American brands.

I can only imagine upgrading to solid transmission mounts, but I imagine this would cause a fair bit of stress.

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like your disk, being race intended, may have little or no springs. Street disks usually have a spring around the center, and 4-6 on the plate. If yours doesn't have this, it would explain a lot of the bucking when clutch engaged (pedal released), coasting down.

Also, is your engine smooth when the RPM's come down?

rotor_veux

iTrader: (3)

Yeah it's smooth just the clutch like you said NO SPRINGS.

I was told to ride the clutch while I come to a stop, and not exert it to much otherwise the bucking will do quite a bit of damage to the rubber mounts.

Guess this solves my issues

It's only related to the disc, no affect on my rpm. ( Thanks for reminding me and educating me on this "Spring", portion as I didn't think of this.

rotor_veux

iTrader: (3)

Would like to add, extreme bucking does affect my rpm to the level of 50-100 in very small affect, as it's more on the instrument readings due to the nature nothing that would stall the car. Would like to add it only incurs under 2,000rpm.

I don't see many write ups on carbon fiber disc's due to price and nature of the product, so if anyone else uses a single plate with a similar setup I guess this is a common theme to the nature of the product. I don't think this is recommened for lighter driving as for my use, but It's reviewed positively for drift use.

jjwalker

You dont need to ride the clutch so much as dont just dump the gas pedal. It works both ways, If you are engaging the clutch too hard and the rear end is resisting, your clutch will want to twist the drive train and chatter. The same goes for dumping the gas pedal and the engine resists decelerating and the drive train tries to twist the drive train and chatter clutch.

The latter is way more likely, and your fix would be to get a sprung clutch (the springs work both ways).