Driving to doctor today, I noticed that going from 1st at about 5500 rpm's, to 2nd, the clutch slipped momentarily, then caught. I'm hearing, what sounds like to me, the pressure plate upon startup, which instantly disappears, when I engage the clutch. I seem to remember that there is an adjustment, but I can't seem to find it, or find out where I read about it. 151, 000 miles, probably time for a new one, but is there an adjustment? Manual transmission. Any information would be appreciated.

PEACE THE DOG

 

The clutch actuation is accomplished by hydraulics (you already know that I'm sure) so there is no "linkage" to adjust other than from the pedal to the clutch master cylinder. So the only adjustment available is the clutch pedal and based on your description, I don' t think that's your problem. If it was cold outside (does it get cold in the NAPA valley?), it could simply have been the cold hydraulic fluid returning to "neutral" pressure more slowly than you're accustomed to after you let up on the pedal.

 

My first guess - your clutch is just about worn out.

Around here a clutch job is $400-450.

 

^^by the sound I would say that your clutch is starting to go too^^

the noise you heard at start up coult be the piolt bearing or the throw out bearing......

when you are engaging the clutch in reverse does the car shudder at all? does it shudder at all during engagement in any gear for that matter?

 

Sorry for taking so long to reply. Yes it does get cold here, about 36 degrees yesterday when I left. And no, it doesn't shudder at all in reverse or any gear. After the car was thoroughly warmed up, by driving 25 freeway miles , I mean, still had a slight slip, but only from first to second. All other shifts, at any RPM, still smooth. And I don't know why I said pressure plate, meant bearings. Also, where I work, we have a full shop, with all the tools necessary to replace clutch, but never doing one, how long for a "rookie" to accomplish? I have done all the work myself on the car so far, and would like to keep it that way. And, I want to for now keep it all stock, so who do you all recommend me getting the clutch parts from?

Thanks for the help guys,

PEACE THE DOG

 

ACT makes good clutches. I plan on getting one relatively soon. And a clutch job isn't too bad. Just follow the procedures in the FSM and you should be alright. Good luck.

James

 

Yeah dog, I think your cclutch is dying. You could milk it by for months like this. Also, are the seals (rear main) and (input shaft) leaking?

 

Ohh your going to have some fun with the pilot bearing...hehe. Don't worry about it, its not that hard at all. I've spent hours trying to get the transmission to line up with the engine on one 7. Others, I've had go in on the first push. GL DOG.

 

Thanks for the comments guys. Inflatablepets neither of the seals are leaking. As far as time-wise, removal and installation? 4 hours, 8 hours, a day? It's my daily right now, and don't want to tie up a bay at the shop for too long. Can I do it on a weekend comfortably?

I'll do some more research, but approx. cost of parts, all new of course?

PEACE THE DOG

 

if you have a vehicle hoist it is about a 4 hour job, without one it can take 8 hours or more.

never really had an issue removing the pilot bearing with a puller, if it tends to slip out then try heating the bearing with a propane torch to warm it up a little and it should pop out.

 

Exedy OEM Clutch - 150 shipped
Mobil 1 Synthetic grease - 15
3 quarts of MT90 Redline Tranny fluid - 30 shipped
Rear main seal - 16 shipped
Thread locker and a few cans of brake clean - 20


I just finished changing my clutch yesterday, it took me about 10 hours, i just had it on four jackstands which takes a bit longer due to climbing around alot and not a whole lot of leverage with the tranny. Its easy, i still have it really fresh in my mind so if you have any questions PM me or i can give you my cell number or something

a few things to remember are:
Keep all bolts in clearly marked bags, i used ziplock bags
Use lots of grease on the pilot and release bearings
TORQUE EVERYTHING TO SPEC
and dont pound on the flywheel with a hammer if you do do the rear main seal, instead take a pry bar and pry a little on the back of the flywheel and turn it a little and pry a little it repeat a bunch of time and the flywheel just pops off, works great and doesnt damage anything. you should probably get the flywheel resurfaced while your at it, it removes all the burning and scoring and extends clutch life.

another big thing is spray the clutch disc, flywheel and pressure plate mating surfaces with a ton of brake clean and make sure there is NO dirt or grease on any of the surfaces, cant stress this enough, its essential to proper clutch life

im not trying ot be an *** or anything, but some of these things are easily over looked when your in the middle of the install

 

sometimes a lot of grease is not a good thing.

 

Consider getting your flywheel resurfaced if you do a clutch job.

James

 

Like I said, it will be first time. Shouldn't I get a new flywheel, instead of resuracing? I did a few searches, and found the whole kit for my car for about 300. Isn't a new flywheel included in that kit?

PEACE THE DOG

 

well, i dont wanna pass bad advise or anything, but you know, enough grease, too little isnt so great either, im not saying pack the grease in each end of the bearing and squeeze them in, lol, just make sure the surfaces of both bearings are decently covered and lubed, i give this dude some credit on how things should be.

Oh and on the new flywheel thing, if you wanna get a new one, great, but it may not be nessesary(sp). it seems as though youve had somevery minor slippage and a minor resurface should resolve any problems or imperfactions, but hey, if you can afford a new one go for it. 300 sounds about right, but if you want to go with a great aftermarket clutch kit i vote for the ACT Street/Strip HD clutch kit, OEM feel with 300+lbs of torque handling, more than enough for stock and it wont turn to butter if you wanna beat on it, i couldnt afford the kit, its about 350-400 depending where you get it, but worth it none the less, pair it up with a 12lb steel flywheel and you're revvn' nice. if i could have gotten it i would have.

 

One more question, if I might-who would I take the flywheel to for resurfacing? Like the same guys that we take our rotors ,on our work trucks, to for this application also? Guess I could ask the boss, but I'm already here. Reading the FSM, sounds like everything else mechanical, more time taking apart and putting back together than anything else.

PEACE THE DOG

 

Most likely...it cost me $40 to get my flywheel resurfaced at a speed shop. Some shops can't do flywheels but some can. Call machine shops.

When the flywheel comes off it means the flywheel nut has to come off. The large 2 1/8" socket is needed for that.

Do you have airtools?

James

 

Lightweight flywheel is a good mod if you've got the loot. Might as well do it while you're down there...

 

You know guys, he has never replaced a clutch on a 7, much less remove the flywheel. If you've ever removed a flywheel, you know where I coming from, when I say get prepared to remove it. Like Wankel7 said, you should have some air tools. I have removed a few without airtools, but its not that fun. Add atleast 3 more hours to your time for removing, resurfacing, and reinstalling the flywheel.

The fastest time I ever had for replacing a clutch, was about 2 and a half hours. Longest time: a weekend.

It kinda depends on the car. Not that a certain model is easier, but some bolts on some cars just don't budge, some a weak and break off.

Also, inspect the main shaft on the transmission, near the splines for the disk. At the very tip, you might have some build up, that makes install a nightmare. If your "noise" is coming from the pilot bearing, then you might have some build up on the tip of the main shaft.

 

Thanks for all the answers folks. I said we have a full shop, I run heavy equipment, mechanic on all machinery and hydraulics, just never done a clutch, unbelievable for working on all the equipment for 10 years. Air tool, no problem. 2 1/8" with a 1/2", 3/4", or 1" impact gun, not a problem. Whats the advantage of a lightweight flyweel-gas economy? hehehehehe Seriously , though. Referring to bolts, all are metric, correct? Our concrete pumps are from Germany so 90% of all bolts we have are metric. Covered there, any other surprises I might encounter?

PEACE THE DOG

 

Well, two guys should be able to do the job in a driveway on a Saturday.

As far as the flywheel, if the surface is in good shape and there is only minimal runout, I would merely take some sandpaper (120 grit or so) and sand off the glazing from the flywheel surface. Every clutch job I've done the flywheel was in good shape.

If the surface is in need of reconditioning, find an automotive machine shop. IIRC Napa will resurface a flywheel for a reasonable price. Last time I had one done cost somthing like $30, That was almost 10 years ago though.

Pilot bearing issue. I have only seen one instince where I couldn't get it out. I have always packed the bearing totally full of grease and used a wooden dowel and a hammer to force the bearing out. Pack it full of grease, then drive the appropriately sized dowel into the piliot bearing with a hammer. It hydraulicly forces the bearing out. The time it didn't work, it looked like someone had driven the pilot bearing in with a hammer. I ended up cleaning and regreasing it and put it back into service. It laste for about 3 years before any problems came up. The problem that later arose. In hot weather my transmission was difficult to engage into gears when taking off from a stop. The transmission was still spinning some. I suspect the bearing was going out, and grabbing the input shaft when the clutch was disengaged.

If you replace the rear main seal, I suggest using a seal puller. They are a hook type device that is driven into the seal via a hammer.

This would also be a good time to evaluate the condition of the U joints, trans mount and the slave cylinder hose. Replace these parts if necessary.

As far as a lighter flywheel, I wouldn't recommend it. If the car is a daily driver, You'll be wishing you had the heavier flywheel when taking off from a lot of stops. It will also make the car a bit tricky to drive due to less rotational mass. I think you would be opening up a new can of worms there.

 

Great info again. We regularly use slide hammers, and seal pullers when working on our hydraulic pump rebuilds. Is SR Motorsports a good , reputable company for getting the kit from, or who do you recommend? Once again, is the FSM pretty accurate on their explanation, or is there a link for "surpises" I might encounter? Like, I need to take the pulley off water pump , FIRST, to get last bolt out in order to change the water pump itself, type of surprise?

PEACE THE DOG

 

so are you going with a better aftermarket or an OEM quality clutch kit. as far as Exedy clutch kits go, i went with Gripforce clutch company, it was 129.00 for the kit with shipping it was about 150.00, they have some shady looking performance clutches but if your just going with oem they're ok and decently priced to go with. Ive heard some bad things about the Exedy Stage One organic clutch kit, mostly not what someone was expecting for 400 bucks, but i still would go for the ACT Street/Strip clutch kit if you want something nice that will last a while.

Had i had the airtools i needed right then and there the job probably would have only taken me one day. I tell you now that this is the easiest effn clutch i have EVER changed, even easier than the 88 Toyota truck we have, but that thing was kind of a bitch, the lift you have access to will save you more time than you know it, LEVERAGE is eveything with taking a tranny off and putting it back on. Dont feel intimidated, get your self some kind of manual be it either FSM or Hanyes, just something to use as a guideline incase you get stuck or something. GOOD LUCK

EDIT: Yes the FSM is execellent when it comes to changing the clutch, but just remember to have the Clutch springs on the disc facing towards the tranny side not the engine side. You can see the springs from both sides in most clutch discs, but if the disc isnt marked what side it should be facing just face the side that protrudes more to the tranny side.

 

Learn something new everyday. Thanks Tournapart. I'm not worried about doing the job, I got all the tools, hoists, transmissions jack , etc, just like to know about surprises, like the springs you just referred to. Don't think Ill get to it this weekend now, got an emergency job to do before the rain really hits, so maybe during the week, or hey , CHRISTMAS DAY. That would be one hell of a gift-new clutch-SWEET.

PEACE THE DOG