Cluster/Gauge lights out, highbeams dont work, no fuses blown.
Cluster/Gauge lights out, highbeams dont work, no fuses blown.
My gauge lights decided to go out one night and I can't find any reason why. The signal and the blue light which indicates that the headlights are on works on my dashboard but the lights behind the gauges don't (speedometer/rpms/gas/temp) and my highbeams wont work. It all happened at once, not one by one. What could be the problem?
saaaaaarrrrrrccccccchhhhhhhhhhh....
[Your headlight switch is burnt out, along with its wiring harness, your front turn signal sockets are the cause, they have corrosion. Clean them out, apply dielectric grease to the sockets, replace switch AND harness!!!!!!!]
[Your headlight switch is burnt out, along with its wiring harness, your front turn signal sockets are the cause, they have corrosion. Clean them out, apply dielectric grease to the sockets, replace switch AND harness!!!!!!!]
Where is the wiring harness and turn signal sockets and how do I get to them?
The wiring harness is connected to the headlight switch and turn signal switch, remove the speaker above your left leg to get at it easier [you probably want to remove the gauge surround - black thing with the switches in it]
The front turn signal sockets.. As in, the sockets holding the front turn signal bulbs. [moisture sneaks past the lenses and corrodes the socket, this increases resistance in the circuit which heats up the connection to the headlight switch which burns it out]
Once you clean the corrosion out, make sure to dielectric grease the bulb sockets. You should also search for icemark's writeup on installing a relay in the headlight switch harness so that you're doubly insured against this happening again.
The front turn signal sockets.. As in, the sockets holding the front turn signal bulbs. [moisture sneaks past the lenses and corrodes the socket, this increases resistance in the circuit which heats up the connection to the headlight switch which burns it out]
Once you clean the corrosion out, make sure to dielectric grease the bulb sockets. You should also search for icemark's writeup on installing a relay in the headlight switch harness so that you're doubly insured against this happening again.
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My gauge lights decided to go out one night and I can't find any reason why. The signal and the blue light which indicates that the headlights are on works on my dashboard but the lights behind the gauges don't (speedometer/rpms/gas/temp) and my highbeams wont work. It all happened at once, not one by one. What could be the problem?
If the above is true, then you have the exact same problem I had recently. If that's the case, then what you heard above is true - your headlight switch has burned up. However, mine was still repairable! When I took my switch out to access the damage, I got my multimeter and checked over all the connections to check for continuity to see which part of the circuit board had burnt up.
I came across this one solder joint, seen in the picture attached. It didn't look like a real solid soldered connection in the first place. Anyways, I resoldered and tested to make sure there was continuity. I put the switch back in and all those lights worked again.
That note about the dielectric grease is a good idea. I applied some to the bulb sockets in hopes to prevent a similar occurrence in the future.
Note: I did not take this picture. I found it on another thread when I was searching for solutions to my exterior lights + gauge lights problem.
When the dash lights go out, the running lights normally go out with them. trace the wire harness from the headlight switch underneath the dash, see if it's been cut up.
Report back.
A good start is just what the other guys said, find a good used headlight siwtch, or a rebuilt one. Clean all your exterior lamp sockets thoroughly, then put some dielectric grease on the lamp bases and re-install them. When they get corroded it drives up the resistance, and burns up the contact in your switch and/or the pins on the back. It can be as bad as burning up the short patch harness between the main harness and the switch.
Yeah, and Kenshin better straighten that out before going any further.
The driving light circuit pulls power from the headlight switch (which is why the fogs don't activate unless the LOW beam is on) but doesn't interface/control any other lighting on the car...normally it would be impossible for the fog light switch to turn the HIGH beams on.
Someone's dun sumthing...
The driving light circuit pulls power from the headlight switch (which is why the fogs don't activate unless the LOW beam is on) but doesn't interface/control any other lighting on the car...normally it would be impossible for the fog light switch to turn the HIGH beams on.
Someone's dun sumthing...
This should be an easy diagnosis. When the **** of the headlight switch is turned to the first position, the Red/Black wire along with the Red/Green wire in the headlight harness should have voltage. R/B powers the tail lights (you remember this) and the R/G powers the dash lights.
I might be wrong, I think the brown taped wires go past the blue harness.
Ok after owning my car for 2 years I've just found out my highbeams have been on this entire time but I got confused since when I flipped the foglight switch because everything got brighter. I just turned off my highbeams.
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