Ace Callaway

So I have two questions which is not clear to me if they are related or not. It seems that they are, but I am not 100% sure.

Car: 1987 T-II RX7

First explanation and question:

Two weeks ago, I was driving on the on ramp of a freeway. My car suddenly was bogging out; applying the throttle had no response and the car was jerking, which I am certain was a result of the car trying to stay on and being in gear (It felt like a beginner trying to get out of first gear). I puller over and started the car and it turned on fine. No more than 10 seconds later, the car shuts-off. The accelerator was "unresponsive", even if I applied the accelerator, the car would not stay on. After a few tries of trying to keep the car on and applying the accelerator, my car stayed on and I drove off just fine.

Fast forward to a week ago, I had the exact same problems and symptoms happen to me when I was driving to the gas station. In addition to that, my car would no longer start. I was stuck at my local gas station trying to get the car to stay on. I "successfully" got the car to fire on twice, but to my dismay, the car turned off withing seconds..

My car is now on my drive way. It cranks perfectly fine, nothing sounds unusual, but it does not fire on. The engine is just freely turning when I try to start it.

Does anyone know what is causing this problem and where I can begin to look to diagnose the problem?

*Please be sensitive when explaining electrical issues and procedures because I am not very well educated in electrical problems. I need the "dummies" explanation along with a step by step.


Second explanation and question:

There is a "clicking" noise that is the exact same "clicking" when one is switching from the "ACC" key position to the "ON" position (It only clicks once, when a person does this). The single click that normally occurs, is constantly clicking in my car. It does not click non-stop, but more of "clicking" 5-8 times quickly, as if someone is quickly transition from "ACC" to "ON". There is no real time frame on when it clicks, it just begins to click spontaneously.

The reason I believe these two issues are related is because this "clicking" noise never occurred until my car was not turning on and I was experiencing these issues with my car.

Just as my first question, does anyone know what is causing this problem and where I can begin to look to diagnose the problem?

If anyone has any questions to help you pinpoint the problem, but give me a detailed question on what to check, how to check and its location.

Last thing I will add is that at first, there is an alarm on my car. I don't think it works because the small box that control the alarm (Old school alarm) does not function. Anyways, the wires that are connected to the alarm box are also connected to the "rats nest" under that dash. Someone has spliced into the harness and I am not sure which wires are which and where the wires went to because I was messing with the wires and now the alarm wire are all just hanging. One thing I found interesting is that connected to the alarm box is a wire that runs to the engine bay that is spliced into a wire from the brake cylinder. Possible kill switch? I am completely puzzled.

I will post detailed pictures tomorrow to help get a first hand view.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Disconnect the two wire plug (has a solid Black wire and a Black/White wire) to the Main relay as this is a relay that clicks w/key to on and see if the car continues to click. If it does then disconnect the Circuit Opening relay (disconnect by unplugging the white plug) located under the dash and to the right of the steering wheel. This relay is yellow with a white plug. This relay also clicks w/key to on. There is also a Starter Cut relay (has one plug to it) next to the Main relay which can also click w/key to on.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Chances are your problem(s) is/are related to the Main relay. You can bypass the relay by unplugging the 4 wire plug to the relay and jumper the Black/Green wire to the Black/Yellow wire and jumper the White/Blue wire to the Black/White wire and see if the car starts in addition to not clicking repeatedly. This is just to check the working condition of the Main relay. The jumpering could lead to the battery being drained so disconnect the jumpers after doing this check. If this relay is the problem one of the causes could be the ground wire that serves the relay is intermittent in nature.

Sgtbaker

iTrader: (2)

How would you go about fixing a ground wire that is intermittent in nature? Sorry I'm new to electrical

satch

iTrader: (1)

What particular problem are you having?

Sgtbaker

iTrader: (2)

When I turn my key to start my car all I hear is one "click" about 70% of the time the rest of the time it starts right up. I replaced my starter so It shouldn't be that.

bewst12psi

iTrader: (7)

my car makes a clicking noise if for some reason the factory alarm is somehow set off.... it does it if you lock the doors with key, then reach in the window, unlock it and open the door.... its really stupid, I just disconnect and reconnect the battery and it stops clicking. I dont have starting problems though... might be because of the Haltech... maybe you are having a similar problem.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The wire that connects to the starter solenoid is Black/White. This wire should always have voltage on it when the car is turning over. The B/W wire runs up to the Starter Cut Relay located next to the Main Relay. You could check for voltage there on the B/W wire (when car is turning over). The Starter Cut Relay gets voltage from the Black/Green wire and passes the voltage onto the B/W wire. The B/G wire has voltage when the key is at start and the clutch depressed. Check to see if either of these wires have issues when trying to start the car.