2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

clicking solenoid

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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 09:34 PM
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nopistons2o9's Avatar
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From: modesto ca
clicking solenoid

so i got this clicking solenoid valve its the 6PI. its a brown one. wanting to no how to test it n make it stop. does it have to be a brown one cuz i have put other ones in but were not brown n it still clicks
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 11:43 PM
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when does said solenoid click?
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Old Feb 18, 2011 | 01:23 AM
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Should have two wires running to the brown solenoid. One wire is B/W which should have battery voltage w/key to on and the second wire should be Blue/White and it should have battery voltage when the engine is running below 3850 rpm and then have 0 voltage above 3850 rpm when the engine is under load. To simulate load disconnect the vacuum hose to the Boost/Pressure sensor, cap the hose and then disconnect the plug to the TPS. Engine also needs to be warmed up. The clicking should occur briefly only when the rpm rises above the 3850 rpm threshold or drops below the 3850 rpm threshold.
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Old Feb 18, 2011 | 09:31 AM
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From: FORT WORTH TEXAS
A poorly set/rigged TPS could be your problem. The Relief and Switching solenoids are both triggered by the ECU via the TPS.
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Old Feb 22, 2011 | 03:52 AM
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From: modesto ca
clicks wen i turn the key without car running. n alright my car not running yet so ill have to see wats uo wen its done
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Old Feb 22, 2011 | 05:47 AM
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What I wrote in post number 4 above is nonsense. Somehow I read your problem as being a relief or switching solenoid click problem. So forget what I wrote in post number 4.
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Old Feb 22, 2011 | 09:47 AM
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With key to on check for voltage on the Blue/White wire at the Brown solenoid and see what reading you get and then share with us the findings. If you happen to have an LED light then place one of the wires onto the positive battery terminal and the other wire on the negative terminal in an attempt to get the light to turn on. If it does then you know which wire is the positive wire and which is the negative. Then take the LED light and place the positive wire into the back of the plug where the Blue/White wire is and the negative wire to a suitable ground and w/key to on does the light stay on constantly or flash. Of the two possibilities it should light up in a constant fashion and not flash. If it stays on constantly then remove both wires and place the positive LED wire into the back of the plug where the Black/White wire is and the negative wire to a ground and w/key to on see if the light stays on constantly or flashes as it should light up constantly. And also place your hand on the Brown solenoid when you hear the clicking to make sure the clicking is indeed coming from the Brown solenoid.
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Old Feb 22, 2011 | 10:43 AM
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From: cold
are you sure you aren't just hearing the BAC valve?
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 11:31 PM
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From: modesto ca
alright jus got done putting in diff. ecu n the clicking stopped n everything wrks
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Old Feb 25, 2011 | 12:18 AM
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Originally Posted by nopistons2o9
alright jus got done putting in diff. ecu n the clicking stopped n everything wrks
The wire (Blue/White) that provided the ground to the ECU which would activate the problematic solenoid comes from the ECU so in replacing the ECU you were able to rectify the specific cause of your problem which was the Blue/White wire was constantly sending a ground then voltage then ground signal in repetitive fashion to the solenoid. Good to hear.
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