2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.
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Choke Removal

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Old 08-04-07, 08:34 AM
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Choke Removal

Hey,

When I had my engine built, I wanted the choke left on.. don't ask why, I don't know anymore. I would like to remove my choke set up now, so that as soon as you start it up, it revs right to 800 RPM.
Is it a matter of simply removing a few pieces? Or is it more complicated.
Any help would be great, thanks.

Dan

...yes, I searched first.
Old 08-04-07, 08:54 AM
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Cake or Death?

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Your engine is carbed?
Old 08-04-07, 09:29 AM
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ah, the anarchy of language. Multiple things control the idle in a 2nd gen, none of which are referred to as a choke.

do a search on the Accelerated Warmup System. Or perhaps you are talking about the thermowax? Are you referring to the 3000 rpm startup that then drops to 1500ish, and then finally down to 750?
Old 08-04-07, 10:13 AM
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Engine, Not Motor

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Which part are you referring to when you say "choke"?
Old 08-06-07, 11:16 PM
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I suppose I am referring to the "Accelerated Warmup System". My car starts up, and revs to about 3000 (ish) RPM, then until the temp gauge goes up a bit, it drops down to 800 RPM.
I do remember something about the thermowax though, are those two different things?
Old 08-07-07, 05:46 AM
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Yes, the AWS and the thermowax are two different things. Both raise the idle speed, but by different amounts for different reasons using different hardware.

The 3000rpm start is the AWS. You really don't want that...
Old 08-07-07, 08:09 AM
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Alright, glad we determined that. Now, how do I go about removing it?
Old 08-07-07, 08:19 AM
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To bypass the 3000RPM start-up without touching any tools, just start the car in gear. After about half a minute, you can shift to neutral and do whatever you like.

The thermowax expands because of coolant going throught the throttle body (coolant goes through the throttle body to prevent icing). When it expands, it moves a cam which turns and releases pressure on the throttle plates and lets them shut to idle once warmed up.

The BAC system is also another independent system that lets in air according to accessory load on engine to prevent stalling and raise idle.

The air bypass valve is another valve that bumps up idle under other conditions.

See FSM, chapter 4. FSM in my sig. The AWS is the only one I bypass (see above). The other ones you should keep because they work well when they work.
Old 08-07-07, 08:20 AM
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Is it a TII, NA, s4, s5?.....makes a difference. And I agree with pfsantos, I also remove the AWS but leave the thermowax unit alone.
Old 08-07-07, 08:43 AM
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Its an S5 TII. Is there a way to remove the AWS so that I don't have to start the car in gear?
Old 08-07-07, 08:06 PM
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It's very simple. The AWS valve is on top of the upper intake manifold. It has 2 hoses, one that goes to a nipple on the passenger side of the intercooler and the other goes to the UIM. Disconnect the hoses from the intercooler and manifold and plug the nipples with rubber or silicone caps from a parts store. Use clamps on both caps. They have been known to come off under boost. Disconnect the AWS wiring connector, remove the 2 AWS bolts and you're done.
Old 08-08-07, 11:31 AM
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Excellent. Thanks for all the help, I will try that as soon as I get back to my car (out of town right now).
Old 08-08-07, 12:44 PM
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When my former origonal TII motor was getting tired, I wired the AWS to open when the AC was on the keep from stalling in hot weather.
Then, after the swap I removed it.
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