George84

I went for a drive today and after about 20mins on the road the check engine light came on, I gave it a little gas and it started to sputter(like real bad). If I was light on the throtle it would still go just fine. So I stoped turned the car off looked for problems, did not see anything wrong, started it back up and the light was off and it was running fine. Drove about 10mins and it did it again, so I turned it off and started it back up and it ran fine. I got to where I was going and let the car cool down for about 2 hours. When I was on the way home it was fine for the first half hour, then it did it again, the light comes on and if I am giving it light throtle it is like nothing is wrong, but if I start to give it some gas it sputters and seams like it is wants to die. When the light was on it would still idle. Did any one else have ever have this problem?

AcidShock

iTrader: (49)

What codes are being thrown? You can check by grounding the single green connector next to the leading coil. When you ground it, the check engine light will flash a code. A long flash = 10 and a short flash = 1. I think that the codes are in the FSM, but do not quote me on that.

Gene

iTrader: (1)

It's going into limp mode to preserve the engine because something is wrong. I had the same thing, it turned out it was my MOP. Check your engine codes.

YearsOfDecay

oooooooo you got an S5.... I'll bet you dollars to donuts that your oil injection pump took a crap..

While you're at it, you'd better take your ECU out, open it up and eyeball the circuit board and look for burnt spots... When the MOP goes, it sometimes takes out the control circuitry on the board as well.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

The OMP is the ONLY thing that will cause limp mode.

George84

well guys I checked the code and it a #27 (metering oil pump). So what is the next step I need to do? Can I just remove the MOP and start to pre-mix? Do I need to replace it? I will check out the ECU for burnt spots. Help me get it going again, please.

Kenteth

S5's need the OMP to keep the ECU from going into limp mode. If you just remove it, it will still trigger limp mode. ghey. S4 rockzers. Anyhow, Theres been little mention of wht resistor will keep the ECU in check when it comes to the OMP. I'd like to know personaly.. I'd use it and be able to sell you my omp. I've been premixing since march.

BTW: Do obvious checks (makre sure the wires are connected compeltely to the omp, what not). My wire loom for the omp was freehanging less than a half inch from the alt belts when i bougth the car. I secured them right away, but i would imagine it would have eaten right through the loom...

George84

So if it is still wired up I guess I just need to make sure I did not fry any part of the computer and replace the OMP with a new one? How much do they cost from Mazda or MazdaTrix?

ibmiked

Hi Geoman,

I had the exact same problem. You're going to need an OMP. Your best bet is to get the ECU also, because sometimes when the OMP goes bad, the ECU shorts out and even changing the OMP won't make the code go away anymore. Kevin at Rotary Ressurection can sell you both (tested to ensure they both are fine) for $250 shipped. Having gone through 2 used OMPs that were bad when I got them, I highly recommend doing it that way.

Hope this helps.

BTW, Mazda will give you a price of $1600.00+ for a new one.

AcidShock

iTrader: (49)

Also, it may or may not be possible to actually see the burnt out circuits on the ECU board. I spent over two hours eyeballing mine with and without a magnifying glass looking for burnt circuits and shorts. Never did find any, but it turned out the ECU was still bad. Just a heads up in case you think your ECU looks fine.

EvilMonkey

I had the same problem about a year after I bought my car... It just so happened though that I knew a guy personally that dealt with 7's to some extent and I got one for free ((as this seems to be a common problem and he happened to have a few laying around his shop)). Rather than going through all of the aftermarket bs and whatnot the stock MOP works great ((until it goes out again of course)) and for the money your best bet would probably to just find someone who has one as they will probably sell it to your for a lot cheaper. As for the ECU, mine was fine as I had no more problems out of it after I replaced the MOP. Replacing it with the engine still in the car really would be more of a problem as it is like halfway b/t the top and the bottom of the engine and right on the side, but then how fun is working on your car if it's easy?? It took me about and hour or so w/ the car on a lift and I was kinda trying to take my time also, as I was at school ((don't laugh, it was college ;P)) doing this. There are only 3 bolts holding the pump itself on and 4 oil lines running to it.

((PS please don't take me as saying you should take the engine out of the car for this replacement as that would be seriously overcomplicating things))