BlueSteel

i've heard drilled/slotted is dangerous (cracks)

whats the verdict on these...


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33564

Ottoman

U can buy brembo's or Power Slots for that price... (brembo's are about $99)

nyc_scorpio

iTrader: (1)

well the better upgrage is always better pads and change the brake fluide to a DOT4 . i reccommend Hawk or Axxis pads. they feel great, and yes, got with brembos. this place called irotors in california buys then and cuts them.

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

Brembo.

You need to watch out for these kinda guys. The claim, 81-95. Well, I could not find a pair for my 82 front anywhere unless I was willing to pay $200.00 each for cross drilled and slotted rotors. What they did not understand, like most comapnies that advertise this way, the hub on the 82-83 fronts stick out to much to get the C&C machine into. I must have called 8 different places, all called back saying, "No we can not do it".... except one, as descripbed above. So, I went with Brembo slotted rotors, because they did not offer drilled for my fb.

As I understand,

Drilled = better cooling
Slotted = better stopping

both together can equal crack eventually.

Hope that helps!

RockLobster

iTrader: (7)

Drilled = Cracking

Cracked two in one day (after mounting them) on the track.

Slots I've not cracked yet. And many other track guys think they are fine and don't crack.

I think drilled only belong on a street car to help resist warping.

SmogSUX

iTrader: (12)

I think that auction is for 4 rotors at 120....something that cheap..crack for sure.

aznpoopy

cross drilled rotors = waste / modern pads do not gas
slotted rotors = meh, maybe better initial bite, still a waste of $$$ imo

negatives

you take mass away from the rotor to absorb heat
you take away *effective* surface area for the rotor to dissipate heat

cross drill and slotting is mostly for bling

if you want track performance, you buy blanks and very aggressive high temperature tolerance pads.

if you want street performance, blanks and some aggressive street pads are fine, all you need is to be able to lock your brakes (that is your braking threshold). yes, you can probably do this with stock braking system. just get a bleed and some fresh pads; check your rotors for meat and warp.

if you want bling, then you buy zinc coated cross drill / slots. just know why you are buying it. don't buy into the hype.

drilled warps/cracks more, because the area around the holes cools faster then the rest of the rotor. thats why you get hairline cracks around the holes. the only fucntion they have on a street car is to look cool.

FC3S_Slider

Endless Brake Pads great for Daily Driving and good for racing on road course or drift tracks. Can't wait till i get rims cause i am going to get their six piston calipiers and slotted rotors.

Node

iTrader: (1)

for a cheap brake upgrade buy some hawk HPS pads front and rear and some SS lines, corksport has some lines for about $85 or so, you can get hawk pads at pepboys even

if you dont fade your brakes as is than rotors (bigger) will make no difference, and crossdrilled slotted reduce a little bit of weight and have a slightly faster bite from what ive been told but rotors are cooling and longevity of your brakes, not how fast you can stop. pads can also make a difference in fade depending on what kind of pads




FC3S_Slider: DAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAMN, I couldn't see forking the money for the endless inch up kits, like $3g's. I thought my porterfields were expensive
Same w/ endless pads and even just brake lines, theyre all about 2-3x the price of the competitors but from what ive been told theyre awesome. but my porterfields will more than do for anything im going to put my car up against. streetcar
But hey, I'm a typical FC owner, a broke cheapass. I still need to get new speedbleeders (SS as I have brass now) and some SS lines and fluid to finalize my brakes, my rotors are on their last cut too so ill need new ones sometime, but not for a while.

Node

iTrader: (1)

oh and another thing,

most rotors you find for our cars are drilled after the rotor is cast. real crossdrilled rotors are CAST with the crossdrilling.

I'm pretty sure that all brembos for our cars are solid and drilled by another company

you can always go for some cryo freezing, id love to try that on a set of rotors

the only real benefit from cross drilling/slotting now is less weight, which also means less cooling mass.
for street cars this may be a little bit of performance from the unsprung weight, but id just stick w/ solid or slotted

spot_skater

i got some x-drilled/slotted ebay rotors on my front, single POTS
OEM rears

had them on there for about five months, with AXXIS ceramic/kevlar pads at all 4 corners

stopping power is great, no cracks yet, and i've taken stops from 120->60, no fade, nothing bad

if they do crack i'll be sure to post though