mutator

Im removing all emissions and "unnessisarys" adding block off plates and caps, aswell as AC deleate and windshield washer deleate, betery relotations ect...

Is anyone here against the idea of removing the fuel evap canister and capping that off? If so why? Im planning on doing the cannister removal as part of emission removal however i would like some feedback on "pros vs cons" of that.

Let me know guys! Thanks

SureShot

1) It's the fuel tank gas vapor vent.
2) It's useful as an oil sump blow by vapor trap.

djmtsu

iTrader: (3)

Mine has been gone for two years, no problems.

Although the car does 'groan' sometimes after shut down from an unidentifiable source.

CyberPitz

I've never even understood fully what that canister does!

DREYKO

it filters and vent pressure and vapors from the gas tank. it keeps the pressure from building too high and blowing off the cap.
thats probably wrong, but thats what im thinking

CyberPitz

If that's the case, wouldn't that thing be important to keep on, and then how do people who take if off..not blow something?

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

Open vent it.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I still have my charcoal canister and purge system.

The charcoal canister absorbs fuel vapours from the tank. These vapours are vented during pressure changes such as those that occur when you fill up, when the temperature changes, etc. If you remove the canister you have only two options:

1. Open vent the tank
2. Plug the vent

Option 1 means that your engine bay will reek like fuel all the time. This smell will get into the cowl area and make the whole car stink like gas. Some people are going to say "I've open vented my tank and my car doesn't stink", and that's fine. Maybe the line is plugged, maybe the check and cut valve is bad, maybe they just aren't sensitive enough to the smell. But any car that I've been involved with that had an open vented fuel tank has stunk.

Option 2 gets rid of the problems in option 1 but won't allow the tank to breathe. When the pressure in the tank is low an the atmosphere is high, the tank will shrink. When the pressure in the tank is high, it will balloon. Ever have that massive release of fuel vapour when you open the tank? That's because of a pressure build up and the check and cut valve should be tested. I'm not sure what the long term effects of this pressure is on the rubber filler neck, gas cap and fuel pump gasket, but it can't be good. Also the safety issues of a massive cloud of vapour escaping from the tank when you open it, and the annoyance of the gas pump always shutting off when you go to fill up.

As for the purge valve, it's job is to allow the crankcase to breath and charcoal canister to be purged. Fresh air is sucked in through the nipple in the center iron and passed through passages down near the eccentric shaft. Then the vapours are sucked out through the oil filler neck.

If you eliminate this system and plug the nipples, you'll get pressurization of the crankcase which causes a lot of issues like oil bypass through the turbo, oil bypass through the seals and keeps those corrosive vapours in the engine.

If you open vent it, you'll have a fine oil mist leaving the nipple and coating your engine bay. You can use a catch can but then you need to remember to check it every few months.

So long story short is that in my opinion, it's best to leave these systems in tact. Neither one of which costs you any power.

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

Option 1 is where I'm at. I will indeed verify that it makes the engine bay smell (at least I think that's where the smell is coming from). I can even see a light coating of gas on the end of the tube.

TitaniumTT

I hear where you're coming from with the stink Aaron and have had a few other people complain about it as well. What about the people that are going standalone though? How do they deal with it?

I'm going to interject my often controversial marine experience. Every single marine fuel tank is vented to atmosphere. I plan on doing the same with a vent installed near the filler. I'll let ya know how that works out as my car is garaged right under the bedroom. My wife will be quick to point out any fuel smell as now I have to shut off the fuel valve on the tractor and let it stahl out to run the carb dry. She's sensitive

Also regarding the purging of the crankcase. I have a catch can with two inlets and a filter on top. I plan on running both the center iron nipple and the nipple on the oil filler tube to the can and just let everything circulate. Is that correct?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

You don't need an ECU output to run the purge system. The stock purge valve is totally vacuum operated.

SpooledupRacing

Here is what I do.. cap off all the lines EXCEPT the gas tank vent.. and run a hose a touch longer from there to the inner fender.. this way it keeps the gas tank fumes outside the car/engine bay and it is still vented

TitaniumTT

hmmm, the purge control is but what about the charcoal canister and evap system? I thought that was solenoid controled?

I guess if there was a fuel smell the charcoal canister could be hooked upto the purge to be routed into the intake under vac to burn off the vapors and just run a catch can for the sump.

That would probably have a horrible effect on idle though... having fuel vapors from the tank being pulled into the intake.

I'm going to try the vent first just for simplisitics.

SpooledupRacing

Venting is safe, just dont block the hose off.. and as I noted if u run the hose into the fender well it will put the fumes outside of the car..

TitaniumTT

but still inside the garage... possibly

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Same difference. Connect the input side of the canister as you normally would (to the hardpipe on the firewall that goes to the fuel tank). Connect the output to the nipple on the center iron. T into that line at the canister and connect to a filtered air source after the AFM/intake. From the nipple on the oil filler tube, connect to the big nipple on the bottom of the purge value. The small bottom nipple goes to a nipple on the intake before the throttle body (fresh air nipple). The nipple on the top goes to a vacuum source.

This is the stock configuration.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

block off charcoal canister and run a catch can for crankcase ventilation. that's what I do.

RotaMan99

I just run the PCV. Removed the char canistor when I first got the car about 6-7 years ago and listened to the myths. I have had no issues. I notice a diff with the PCV on or off while on is best. sludge builds up without the PCV.

Keep the system on and don't worry about it.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

yeah DO NOT block off PCV. My friend has a VR4 with big turbos and he wanted to do some vac reduction. Of course, against my advice he blocks off his crankcase vents and the car starts throwing a shitload of blue smoke out under boost.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Another way to simplify is to get a generic PCV valve from the auto parts store to eliminate the Mazda purge valve. Just connect it between the nipple on the filler neck and a good vacuum source. That eliminates the third line.

AlexG13B

iTrader: (7)

i had both the port on top of the motor and the one of the filler tube for oil blocked up, i wanna change that top run like pcv system. would i need a catch can?

alexdimen

iTrader: (13)

I'm planning on puttingmine back on. I smell gas pretty often since I have it vented to atmosphere. Stupid, I know.

stylEmon

iTrader: (2)

I have to put mine back on for emissions tesing. Can I 'fake' it? They are just looking for visual verification that it's hooked up, right?

I have no problem with hooking it all back up correctly IF I can do it very cheaply... I'm talking, canister and hose. Then be done with it. I really dont even wanna take the TMIC off to hook it all back up.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

The fat line was the only one they clamp for the test.

You'll defintely need it since that is one of the main testing portions.


<--- I pass emissions with a cat/Charcoal canister/and corvette airpump. ACV blocked off and custom oil catch can sitting in front of their faces.

FCguy

Just skimmed the thread so sorry if someone posted this idea.

Why not connect the gas tank vent tube (the one that goes to the charcoal canister) to the intake tube pre-turbo. The amount of gas would be minimal so it would only SLIGHTLY rich'n the mix. Normally (as with carb suck through setups) gas would condense in the intercooler and could cause the vapors to explode... but again the amount of gas would be very low. This would not gid rid of the smells completely im sure but it would def help.

Whatca think?