Changing back to mineral oil
11-06-01, 05:41 PM
#1
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Changing back to mineral oil
Can anyone tell me if there are any procedures or problems of switching back to mineral oil vs. staying with synthetics?
11-06-01, 06:11 PM
#2
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Yeah, when you goto the auto parts store, buy mineral oil as opposed to a synthetic oil. Then put mineral oil in your car instead of synthetic.
Ok, sorry for being a smart-***, but in answer to your question, no I don't think so. You may want to do the ATF treatment, since synthetics aren't made to burn and they tend to leave more carbon deposits and buildup. The ATF will help clear that up. I don't know what year and model your car is, but many of us(NA owners at least) use Castrol GTX 20w50.
Ok, sorry for being a smart-***, but in answer to your question, no I don't think so. You may want to do the ATF treatment, since synthetics aren't made to burn and they tend to leave more carbon deposits and buildup. The ATF will help clear that up. I don't know what year and model your car is, but many of us(NA owners at least) use Castrol GTX 20w50.
11-06-01, 06:29 PM
#3
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Although I personally believe that you can just change the oil and after a couple of changes you won't have any of the syntheics still in, the old school thought on changing brands of oil and de-Sludgeing a car is:
From Iain Wiltshire - Newbury, Berkshire, England. 21 October 2000
Advice: When you get your car see if you can find out what oil the owner, or his service agent has used, and stick with it, unless it's poor quality then flush it out in the following manner. I explained this to Jeff Tate on the 'phone as his car suffered from sludge deposits, it is a bit involved but worth telling.
1 Warm the car thoroughly, and drain off about 1ltr of the oil already in the car, replace with a good flushing oil.
2 Go for another good run.
3 Use the car for no more than 300 miles and always decent length runs.
4 After the last run drain all the oil, refill with entirely flushing oil, take her out for another good run, stopping at intervals taking the oil filler cap off and feeling if the sludge becomes less gelatinous and there is a distinctive smell, slightly 'petrolly' in nature.
5 Go home at this point, don't venture more than 20 miles from home, in other words; take a circuitous route until the desired effect is achieved.
6 Drain the oil OVERNIGHT in a warm garage.
7 Do a complete oil change.
8 Do not drive for 30 minutes after filling the car, and before driving check the oil level and top-up to the mark.
Over the next 3 oil changes all the sludge will disappear.
What is Sludge?
The oils we use are L.ong C.hain P.olymers, and they all deposit themselves on the surface of the metal, it is designed to be wiped off and replaced with other LCP's as the first ones break down. When a different oil is used it may not be able to remove the old LCP but will leave its own new LCP on top and the pollution just continues as one affects the other causing further build up.
.
1 Warm the car thoroughly, and drain off about 1ltr of the oil already in the car, replace with a good flushing oil.
2 Go for another good run.
3 Use the car for no more than 300 miles and always decent length runs.
4 After the last run drain all the oil, refill with entirely flushing oil, take her out for another good run, stopping at intervals taking the oil filler cap off and feeling if the sludge becomes less gelatinous and there is a distinctive smell, slightly 'petrolly' in nature.
5 Go home at this point, don't venture more than 20 miles from home, in other words; take a circuitous route until the desired effect is achieved.
6 Drain the oil OVERNIGHT in a warm garage.
7 Do a complete oil change.
8 Do not drive for 30 minutes after filling the car, and before driving check the oil level and top-up to the mark.
Over the next 3 oil changes all the sludge will disappear.
What is Sludge?
The oils we use are L.ong C.hain P.olymers, and they all deposit themselves on the surface of the metal, it is designed to be wiped off and replaced with other LCP's as the first ones break down. When a different oil is used it may not be able to remove the old LCP but will leave its own new LCP on top and the pollution just continues as one affects the other causing further build up.
.
11-06-01, 06:30 PM
#4
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cAHANGING BACK TO MINERAL OIL
Their is no problem changing back to minerail oil, don`t know why you would want to unless you have a bad oil leak or cost is a factor!!! Anyway this is the way that I would do it, and I would do it the same way going the other direction!!!
Warm up your car to regular oporating temp, drain the oil from the pan, change the oil filter to a Mazda oil filter, put three quarts,{hear me out} of the oil that you are going to use:in the car, Put the car in gear and your foot on the clutch and start your engine, count one onethousand two onethousand up to 35, then shut off the engine. WHY DO YOU WANT ME TO DO THIS???? Because the oil cooler holds just under two quarts of oil and this allows the fresh oil to push out the dirty oil in the oil lines and the cooler. It took some experimentation to figure out how long to count but this is what I come up with.I know what you going to say, that the dirty oil will mix with the new oil, but mostly the new oil is on the bottom of the pan and the old oil runs in the top. Then drain that oil out and add about four more quarts of oil and you are done !!! I have done this every time that I change my oil and have 246`000 miles on the original engine{ NO JOKE]!!! I do not run the crap out of my car, but I don`t baby it either
Warm up your car to regular oporating temp, drain the oil from the pan, change the oil filter to a Mazda oil filter, put three quarts,{hear me out} of the oil that you are going to use:in the car, Put the car in gear and your foot on the clutch and start your engine, count one onethousand two onethousand up to 35, then shut off the engine. WHY DO YOU WANT ME TO DO THIS???? Because the oil cooler holds just under two quarts of oil and this allows the fresh oil to push out the dirty oil in the oil lines and the cooler. It took some experimentation to figure out how long to count but this is what I come up with.I know what you going to say, that the dirty oil will mix with the new oil, but mostly the new oil is on the bottom of the pan and the old oil runs in the top. Then drain that oil out and add about four more quarts of oil and you are done !!! I have done this every time that I change my oil and have 246`000 miles on the original engine{ NO JOKE]!!! I do not run the crap out of my car, but I don`t baby it either
11-06-01, 07:13 PM
#5
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Thanks for all the advice guys, I think Ill make the switch... THe previous owner always used synthetics and 10w30 in the car... THe new engine only has about 25k on it. Ill def. try the GTX 20w50
11-06-01, 08:24 PM
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using 20/50
After looking at where you live, I think that I would reconcider using 20/50 in the winter !! Allthough I used it for years, I live on the coast of Oregon and it does not get that cold hear. Your location is a different story !!
I`d reccomend Valvoline Turbo 10/30, or if you like castrol, use it , both are great oils and have a low ash content.
Check out this web site, very informative edh@maxey.unr.edu
See Ya !!!
HUMMER
I`d reccomend Valvoline Turbo 10/30, or if you like castrol, use it , both are great oils and have a low ash content.
Check out this web site, very informative edh@maxey.unr.edu
See Ya !!!
HUMMER
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