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Certain heater control lights don't work

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Old May 1, 2017 | 09:59 PM
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Certain heater control lights don't work

1989 vert.

Just noticed today that the lights that light up the position for the air to come out is burned out.

Thought it was just a fuse and apparently if it was it would take all the lights out.

Is there a bulb to replace ? Wiring ? Switch ?

It's annoying since I work most nights and can't see crap. The temp setting works but I need to now memorize where I need the air lol

Thanks guys. Also while I'm at it how do I remove the surround to get at the HVAC controls?
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Old May 2, 2017 | 06:14 AM
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Bad solder joints in the logicon. Very common.
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Old May 2, 2017 | 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by PnoyRx7
1989 vert.

Just noticed today that the lights that light up the position for the air to come out is burned out.

Thought it was just a fuse and apparently if it was it would take all the lights out.

Is there a bulb to replace ? Wiring ? Switch ?
First thing to check would be the bulbs and unfortunately, pulling the logicon is kind of a pain.

Originally Posted by PnoyRx7
how do I remove the surround to get at the HVAC controls?
Remove the ashtray, below is a bracket with two screws.
Pull the center vents at the top of the stack and there's a bracket with two screws up there as well. Those are the only fasteners but there are some locating tabs that kind of snap in place, so carefully pull the bezel off.

Now you'll see two screws on each side of the logicon that obviously hold it in place but don't get too happy yet because the most inexplicably difficult part is just coming up.
There are four electrical connectors on the back of the unit, one of which is actually on a pigtail about a foot long.
This stupid pigtail goes up to the firewall, just below the windshield and to get to it, remove the defroster garnish on the top of the dash. You'll see the fairly large connector that joins to the main firewall harness.

Top tip!...tie a goodly length of twine or something around the pigtail connector before you fish it out of the dash. This will allow you to tie the string to the new connector and fish it back up to it's final location.

Now you can unscrew the unit and unplug the three other connectors (if no AC, there are only two) and you finally have the unit in hand.

I'm not an electronics guy and I did this a few years ago, so my memory is hazy but replacing the bulbs is fairly obvious and easy...except.

Except the bulb you think should illuminate the vent positions actually channels down and lights the sliders, the one you want is in a non-intuitive location (on the bottom, I think).
You'll figure it out, just replace 'em all.

Be gentle fishing the pigtail back up through the dash, it's snaking past/through vents and actuators and the connector can get hung up and require some finagling.

And that's that.

Before you install the unit, you can easily check your work by just plugging in the illumination connector and turning on the lights. The other connectors have nothing to do with the lighting.
If new bulbs don't cure your ills, it's solder time.

Last edited by clokker; May 2, 2017 at 09:17 AM.
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Old May 2, 2017 | 10:00 AM
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Same issue. Pulling controller is fairly straightforward. Do you guys know what kind of bulbs those are? I haven't been able to identify them or find the right part number.
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Old May 2, 2017 | 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by clokker
First thing to check would be the bulbs and unfortunately, pulling the logicon is kind of a pain.


Remove the ashtray, below is a bracket with two screws.
Pull the center vents at the top of the stack and there's a bracket with two screws up there as well. Those are the only fasteners but there are some locating tabs that kind of snap in place, so carefully pull the bezel off.

Now you'll see two screws on each side of the logicon that obviously hold it in place but don't get too happy yet because the most inexplicably difficult part is just coming up.
There are four electrical connectors on the back of the unit, one of which is actually on a pigtail about a foot long.
This stupid pigtail goes up to the firewall, just below the windshield and to get to it, remove the defroster garnish on the top of the dash. You'll see the fairly large connector that joins to the main firewall harness.

Top tip!...tie a goodly length of twine or something around the pigtail connector before you fish it out of the dash. This will allow you to tie the string to the new connector and fish it back up to it's final location.

Now you can unscrew the unit and unplug the three other connectors (if no AC, there are only two) and you finally have the unit in hand.

I'm not an electronics guy and I did this a few years ago, so my memory is hazy but replacing the bulbs is fairly obvious and easy...except.

Except the bulb you think should illuminate the vent positions actually channels down and lights the sliders, the one you want is in a non-intuitive location (on the bottom, I think).
You'll figure it out, just replace 'em all.

Be gentle fishing the pigtail back up through the dash, it's snaking past/through vents and actuators and the connector can get hung up and require some finagling.

And that's that.

Before you install the unit, you can easily check your work by just plugging in the illumination connector and turning on the lights. The other connectors have nothing to do with the lighting.
If new bulbs don't cure your ills, it's solder time.


Wow clokker. Very detailed​ information. I appreciate your help. My only question is it really only pull out on the vents ? I have never removed the vents and I'm missing one vent so I would prefer to not break it anymore lol.

On another note why the hell would Mazda put the connection so far back. Seems like someone was mad at somebody in the development department.
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Old May 3, 2017 | 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by PnoyRx7
Wow clokker. Very detailed​ information. I appreciate your help. My only question is it really only pull out on the vents ? I have never removed the vents and I'm missing one vent so I would prefer to not break it anymore lol.
Yep. Except the vents pull out as a complete assembly. So you don't have to fiddle with the individual vents and risk anymore breakage.
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Old May 3, 2017 | 04:55 PM
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The s5 vents are easy..just take a flathead and pry them carefully on the upper or lower section and they come out as a big rectangular piece.
Like this..Picture it..: (-- --)
There are 2 surround screws inside that upper part of the inside of that space and also under the ashtray.Once you take those screws out you can remove the surround.

PNOY..if you have Facetime LMK..I will go to the car and show you.
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Old May 4, 2017 | 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by misterstyx69
The s5 vents are easy..just take a flathead and pry them carefully on the upper or lower section and they come out as a big rectangular piece.
Like this..Picture it..: (-- --)
There are 2 surround screws inside that upper part of the inside of that space and also under the ashtray.Once you take those screws out you can remove the surround.

PNOY..if you have Facetime LMK..I will go to the car and show you.

Hmm so what you're saying is pry between the vent and the surround ? I just got off nights so have not had time to look at the car. I'll pm you later Styx damn weather with rain for the next 6 days lol
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Old Jun 4, 2017 | 06:23 PM
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Sorry for not updating this thread but I finally had time to get out to the car to pull the trim and vent off. Tomorrow morning I'm going to tackle the ever so delicate center heater vent in the dash without breaking it.

And if my luck pans out I'll have the heater controls out by tomorrow evening.

Side note, does anyone know what type of bulbs are used for the controls ? I'm guessing a wedge type 194ish bulb even though I think it's too big for it. Just trying to see if I can order LEDs in case it ends up working or I can out them into the replacement.

Thanks.
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Old Jun 7, 2017 | 09:00 PM
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Problem. I can't get the dash trim off the top. It's too wide to pull. I released all the tabs but I can't fully remove the trim. Also couldn't feel around for the connector, granted it's night time now and I'm blind as a bat probably.

Not to mention I broke every single windshield defroster vent. Maybe I'll buy the LRB speed metal replacement.

Random question is the top dash trim made of better materials? As it's not brittle as hell such as the vents which broke while I breathed on them.
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Old Jun 8, 2017 | 08:19 PM
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Ok I didn't have to remove that connector. It was lodged in the dash and I couldn't get it out so I took the 4 screws out of the controls and I got to the bulb and what do you know it's the bulb that's bad.

Hopefully the dealer carries this type of bulbs TSD V2 bulb as I don't want to wait for it online as they are expensive.

there are only two bulbs luckily at the back. Only need one though.



Edit: i assumed it was a removable #74 bulb ... i was wrong. its one complete unit. time to wait until mazda opens

Last edited by PnoyRx7; Jun 8, 2017 at 11:03 PM.
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Old Jul 3, 2017 | 02:51 AM
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Mazda no longer carries this OEM bulb for our cars and you will need to use LED replacements or find an old HVAC logicon and steal the bulbs.


Just to help everyone Nissan MAY have a replacement bulb that MIGHT work if anyone is looking for oem style bulbs. I BELIEVE it was a older style pathfinder/infiniti version with the blue light up buttons and the bulb holder appears to be the same its just that it has a blue *condom* on it that comes off.

A/C Panel Button Lights for 2001 Pathfinder - Nissan Forum | Nissan Forums

looked around the wreckers and couldnt find one but Nissan lists at 11.59+/- and in stock.
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