Ceramic or carbon apex seals
06-07-05, 07:56 PM
#3
Rotary Enthusiast
None! Ceramic will tear the living hell out of the housings, rotors and turbo. Carbon is just for nitrous and will not work well at low idle. So the answer is either Atkins or Hurley...
06-07-05, 08:04 PM
#4
Passing life by
Originally Posted by Angel Guard Racing Team
None! Ceramic will tear the living hell out of the housings, rotors and turbo. Carbon is just for nitrous and will not work well at low idle. So the answer is either Atkins or Hurley...
06-07-05, 09:35 PM
#7
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
i need goos seals because i just joined a rotary club and they do driftin contests and road course racing and since im going to be running hi revs i need a good set of apex seals
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06-07-05, 09:52 PM
#9
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
well where ever i look on the net i cant find anything on ceramic seals all i can find are carbon seals. i dont know if thats telling me anythig or not
06-07-05, 10:08 PM
#12
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you cant just take apart an engine and put in new apex seals and put it back together. you have to completely overhaul the engine to change internal parts which will cost about $600-1000 if you do it yourself.
06-07-05, 10:26 PM
#13
Passing life by
Wont it suck to only replace your compreshion apex seals and put it back together to finde out you have a coolant seal not seating or a worn side seal is not reseating on the iron and burning oil?
From what I have heard from members using ceramics and reserch on the material its the best. Supream heat disipation and soft material. Like I said the rx-8 from factory use them. Very $$$$ part thow. This is the first I have ever heard of scoring from Angel Guard Racing Team. So defanitly reserch and call the companys with queshtions befor purchasing.
From what I have heard from members using ceramics and reserch on the material its the best. Supream heat disipation and soft material. Like I said the rx-8 from factory use them. Very $$$$ part thow. This is the first I have ever heard of scoring from Angel Guard Racing Team. So defanitly reserch and call the companys with queshtions befor purchasing.
06-07-05, 10:28 PM
#14
Rotary Freak
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you have alot more to learn buddy. Cermaic are very expensive and if your going to be "Drifting" you dont need those just get some 2peice 2mm apex seals from atkins or mazda. You sound not have any trouble with theses and remember rotarys are made for I rev ,so you dont need specialty seals to do so. From my "drifting experinces in several compotions is that after the rebuild you really need a koyo and other things portect the engine from heat and wear and tear.
06-07-05, 10:48 PM
#16
Passing life by
Originally Posted by slpin
recommending ceramic seals for a stock s4? what kind of retard...
just run stock seals! its a stock engine!
just run stock seals! its a stock engine!
What kind of retard can not remember the title.
06-07-05, 10:58 PM
#17
it doesnt matter what the title was.
If you have any brains (wait i take that back, you dont have one)
you would know he is wasting thousands of dollars on his stock motor...
so it will run like **** at the low rpm
and doesnt run that great at the high rpm either
...since its stock!
you talk sooo much **** for having a car that doesnt even run
If you have any brains (wait i take that back, you dont have one)
you would know he is wasting thousands of dollars on his stock motor...
so it will run like **** at the low rpm
and doesnt run that great at the high rpm either
...since its stock!
you talk sooo much **** for having a car that doesnt even run
06-07-05, 11:57 PM
#18
...i like pistons...
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"Ceramic apex seals are the best solution overall, but pricey at as much as 8 times that of steel seals. Are they necessary for a high performance engine? They are a benefit for longer reliability and more resistant to detonation failure. They can however still fail under exteme conditions.
The best overall solution is proper tuning to avoid detonation all together. With effective tuning, 2mm or 3mm steel apex seals will work fine. On the other hand, in repeated race conditions pushing the limits of power, ceramic apex seals will likely extend the running hours of usage between complete engine rebuilds. 2mm apex seals seal better than 3mm apex seals due to clearances required. We believe 2mm ceramics to be the best overall choice."
-http://www.rotorsportsracing.com/performancetuning/engine_parts.htm
The best overall solution is proper tuning to avoid detonation all together. With effective tuning, 2mm or 3mm steel apex seals will work fine. On the other hand, in repeated race conditions pushing the limits of power, ceramic apex seals will likely extend the running hours of usage between complete engine rebuilds. 2mm apex seals seal better than 3mm apex seals due to clearances required. We believe 2mm ceramics to be the best overall choice."
-http://www.rotorsportsracing.com/performancetuning/engine_parts.htm
06-08-05, 04:35 AM
#19
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
thanx kenner. another thing to ask is when i get all of my mods (no turbo) would it be better if i ran my stock rotors (redline at 7K) or get light weight rotors (redline at 8.5K). and if i get light weight rotors is that when i should put in new seal set (all seals) on my angine
06-08-05, 09:56 AM
#20
is The Whoopieschnootz
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There are threads on what needs replaced when the motor is apart, what should be replaced, etc etc. There are items that need changed when you pull the motor apart whether it was last apart at the mazda factory, or last weekend in your basement without any run time between...
06-08-05, 12:35 PM
#21
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You don't need lightweight rotors or ceramic apex seals to drift. I suggest you search this forum, there is more information here than you can read in a year. As others have suggested, I recommend that you do a lot of research here before you go and spend thousands and thousands of dollars unnecessarily.
If your motor is blown and you need a rebuild, get a nice rebuild with a streetport. Stock Mazda seals are great, no need to spend $2000 on ceramics on an N/A as they are not nearly as prone to detonation as a turbo. That money would be better spent on new housings...that may be money well spent depending on the condition of your current housings. Sounds like you need to do some research and get in touch with a good rotary performance shop, I would look in the Southeast forum and ask around for a good shop. There are a lot of places that will rip you off and/or don't know what they're doing.
If your motor is blown and you need a rebuild, get a nice rebuild with a streetport. Stock Mazda seals are great, no need to spend $2000 on ceramics on an N/A as they are not nearly as prone to detonation as a turbo. That money would be better spent on new housings...that may be money well spent depending on the condition of your current housings. Sounds like you need to do some research and get in touch with a good rotary performance shop, I would look in the Southeast forum and ask around for a good shop. There are a lot of places that will rip you off and/or don't know what they're doing.
06-08-05, 12:45 PM
#23
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by Turbo II-FB
this thread is worthless
Thread has been pruned for crap replies
Last edited by Icemark; 06-08-05 at 12:51 PM.
06-08-05, 12:54 PM
#24
NorCal 7's Co-founder
Something else to note... 8K is not really that high revving on a rotary engine. now if you had said 10K or more, that would be high revving. A lot of people have been very pleased with the Rotary Aviation apex seals lately. Just remember to use stock mazda apex seal springs and not the RA springs. Everyone that I have talked to using that combination has been EXTREMELY pleased. Just my .02
Zach
Zach
06-08-05, 01:37 PM
#25
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Originally Posted by ultradef
You don't need lightweight rotors or ceramic apex seals to drift. I suggest you search this forum, there is more information here than you can read in a year. As others have suggested, I recommend that you do a lot of research here before you go and spend thousands and thousands of dollars unnecessarily.
If your motor is blown and you need a rebuild, get a nice rebuild with a streetport. Stock Mazda seals are great, no need to spend $2000 on ceramics on an N/A as they are not nearly as prone to detonation as a turbo. That money would be better spent on new housings...that may be money well spent depending on the condition of your current housings. Sounds like you need to do some research and get in touch with a good rotary performance shop, I would look in the Southeast forum and ask around for a good shop. There are a lot of places that will rip you off and/or don't know what they're doing.
If your motor is blown and you need a rebuild, get a nice rebuild with a streetport. Stock Mazda seals are great, no need to spend $2000 on ceramics on an N/A as they are not nearly as prone to detonation as a turbo. That money would be better spent on new housings...that may be money well spent depending on the condition of your current housings. Sounds like you need to do some research and get in touch with a good rotary performance shop, I would look in the Southeast forum and ask around for a good shop. There are a lot of places that will rip you off and/or don't know what they're doing.
