cars flooded and now it won't crank
05-12-09, 07:59 PM
#1
cars flooded and now it won't crank
More problems.. mmm its a 91 n/a FC
my car just flooded a few days ago. i cranked it, with the peddle down and now it doesn't crank at all..
it started cranking slowly before it wouldn't crank at all. my battery is at 12.55 volts. any ideas where to start looking?
my car just flooded a few days ago. i cranked it, with the peddle down and now it doesn't crank at all..
it started cranking slowly before it wouldn't crank at all. my battery is at 12.55 volts. any ideas where to start looking?
05-12-09, 09:58 PM
#3
Your battery should be reading higher than 12.55 volts. Take the battery to an auto parts store and say you want it tested. They will charge it for you and test it for FREE. Take your spark plugs out. blow them off with an air compressor or wipe them with a towel. Crank the car a few times with the plugs out and fuel pump disconnected. This will force the flooded fuel out through the plug holes. Now insert the clean plugs, plug the fuel pump back in, and start it up.
05-13-09, 01:40 AM
#5
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You don't necessarily have to take out the fuel pump.
I just took out the EGI Fuse and cranked it without the spark plugs. It worked fine for me.
But it just sounds like the starter. Usually when your car is flooded, it'll still crank. If it doesn't crank that means there is nothing turning that flywheel in your car.
Right? At least that's what I know from experience.
I just took out the EGI Fuse and cranked it without the spark plugs. It worked fine for me.
But it just sounds like the starter. Usually when your car is flooded, it'll still crank. If it doesn't crank that means there is nothing turning that flywheel in your car.
Right? At least that's what I know from experience.
05-13-09, 11:52 AM
#6
i just pulled my starter, alternator got them tested and the came back still good. I got a new battery. still cranked really slow and then it won't crank at all. whats werid was i decided to check for codes and the CAS code # 2 popped i replaced it another i had handy and reset the ecu and code went away.
Last edited by rotary#10; 05-13-09 at 11:53 AM. Reason: grr
05-13-09, 07:12 PM
#7
Does the engine kick back at you when you crank it? Your CAS could be toast. Mark the 10mm bolt position and remove the CAS to inspect it for damage.
Test for voltage to the starter. Could be a bad ground. Could be carbon build up in the housings? Test the ignition switch voltage.
Test for voltage to the starter. Could be a bad ground. Could be carbon build up in the housings? Test the ignition switch voltage.
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05-13-09, 11:53 PM
#8
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uhh its an S5 you don't have to take any fuses out, he is right by flooring the pedal before cranking
could be battery or starter, jump it and see if it cranks, smack the starter with a hammer (soft and sharp ) maybe the solinoid (sp)
also I found a trick that works, have someone crank the car while you hold rags over exhaust tips, works for me on my s4 n/a and I use it at work on HMMWV's as well when they flood
i have done that on my FC with out removing plugs, putting oil anywhere or removing fuses, I did it in fact without even opening the hood...
could be battery or starter, jump it and see if it cranks, smack the starter with a hammer (soft and sharp ) maybe the solinoid (sp)
also I found a trick that works, have someone crank the car while you hold rags over exhaust tips, works for me on my s4 n/a and I use it at work on HMMWV's as well when they flood
i have done that on my FC with out removing plugs, putting oil anywhere or removing fuses, I did it in fact without even opening the hood...
05-14-09, 12:19 AM
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is the engine trying to turn over and then not?..
if the car has stopped "cranking" then your battery/starter is DEAD.
but.. 12.55v is fine. if you are worried about it, get someone to hold a multimeter to your battery while you crank, if volts drop below 9v then your battery is screwed, and not even recharging it will bring it back to life.
have you pulled egi fuse and plugs, and then cranked it over?
05-14-09, 09:09 PM
#13
every bolt is snug down tight as I can put it.
*I remember a few days ago after the car wouldn't start I was cleaning all the grounds I could find and know from the haynes manual. I attempted to start the car but forgot to bolt down the strut tower/ (starter ground).
Do you think I toasted starter wiring then?
Im pretty sure the starter should be bad since it cranked really sloww and doesn't want to turn over due to previous experience with my old supra. The supra would crank really slow but catch after a few tries.
*I remember a few days ago after the car wouldn't start I was cleaning all the grounds I could find and know from the haynes manual. I attempted to start the car but forgot to bolt down the strut tower/ (starter ground).
Do you think I toasted starter wiring then?
Im pretty sure the starter should be bad since it cranked really sloww and doesn't want to turn over due to previous experience with my old supra. The supra would crank really slow but catch after a few tries.
05-19-09, 12:46 PM
#15
well im back to pulling the starter again, i'll get it tested one more time. I also
tested the battery with a voltage meter with the ign. in the on position and its a 12.45V and with the key in the off position its 12.74 volts. I can't imagine what the volts on the battery would be when cranking..
I took some pics of the ground on the strut tower and on the motor block.
Are they supposed to be exposed as they are in the pic ?
This is the one on the engine
This is the one that mounts to the shock tower wall
tested the battery with a voltage meter with the ign. in the on position and its a 12.45V and with the key in the off position its 12.74 volts. I can't imagine what the volts on the battery would be when cranking..
I took some pics of the ground on the strut tower and on the motor block.
Are they supposed to be exposed as they are in the pic ?
This is the one on the engine
This is the one that mounts to the shock tower wall
05-19-09, 03:15 PM
#16
hey checking the ign switch again and there is no continuity on Start position between B - IG1 also on ST-L-E-K1-K2.
On all the other terminals and position laid out in the FSM they have continuity, but the start position. would that explain why it wouldn't crank?
On all the other terminals and position laid out in the FSM they have continuity, but the start position. would that explain why it wouldn't crank?
05-19-09, 08:30 PM
#17
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that top picture should be bolted to the starter, there should be a nut on the front side of the engine that holds it down, that one on the strut tower is aftermarket, I would go ahead and put a bolt in it though, should hook straight up to the battery
it will start without that hooked up, somwhere it gets ground, just not a good ground
it will start without that hooked up, somwhere it gets ground, just not a good ground
05-20-09, 08:30 AM
#18
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Just my opinion.......but you could disconnect all the grounds on the car EXCEPT the one bolted to the starters long outboard bolt (Black/Yellow cable), and the starter would turn over when the key is put to START.
The ground at the bottom of the strut tower grounds the chassis to the batt neg post. It should be on there. It's a stock ground point tying the chassis to the batt neg post (said that twice now).
If the battery cables fittings on the battery are good.........and the batterys positive cable is attached to the starters solenoid right............and the batterys negative cable is attached to the long bolt on the starter (or one of the bolts that ties the transmission to the engine), the starter should turn over.
You were talking ignition switch wires............find the TWO wire ignition switch plug with a pure BLACK wire and a Black/White wire. Then find the single wire connector with a L/B wire in it.
Get a piece of wire bare at each end. Jumper the L/B wire to the pure Black wire in the two wire connector. If the clutch is depressed, the starter should turn over. Car will not start, only the starter will turn over.
Now if that happens each time you depress the clutch, the problem lies in the igniton switch IF we're talking about how the ignition switch only works sometimes when you go to Start with the key.
See jpgs and follow the lines to the starter.
The ground at the bottom of the strut tower grounds the chassis to the batt neg post. It should be on there. It's a stock ground point tying the chassis to the batt neg post (said that twice now).
If the battery cables fittings on the battery are good.........and the batterys positive cable is attached to the starters solenoid right............and the batterys negative cable is attached to the long bolt on the starter (or one of the bolts that ties the transmission to the engine), the starter should turn over.
You were talking ignition switch wires............find the TWO wire ignition switch plug with a pure BLACK wire and a Black/White wire. Then find the single wire connector with a L/B wire in it.
Get a piece of wire bare at each end. Jumper the L/B wire to the pure Black wire in the two wire connector. If the clutch is depressed, the starter should turn over. Car will not start, only the starter will turn over.
Now if that happens each time you depress the clutch, the problem lies in the igniton switch IF we're talking about how the ignition switch only works sometimes when you go to Start with the key.
See jpgs and follow the lines to the starter.
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