2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Carbon Build-Up on Apex Seals

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Old Jan 11, 2002 | 09:02 AM
  #1  
Dave Meers's Avatar
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From: Delaware
Unhappy Carbon Build-Up on Apex Seals

I recently experienced the dreaded apex seal problem on the front rotor of my '90 GXL N/A and am in the process of trying the ATF solution. While pulling the plugs, I was able to look into the combustion chambers and can see all three seals still intact. Two of them look to be relatively clean while the third one obviously has carbon deposits. The car only has 68,000 mile on it and the oil has been changed every 3,000. I put in as much ATF as the combstion chamber would hold and plan to rotate the engine to the next rotor side tonite, put in more ATF and do the third side tomorrow. I seldom drive this car fast and have never hit redline. What would cause all the carbon build-up and why is it only in the front rotor? Thanks!
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Old Jan 11, 2002 | 09:11 AM
  #2  
jimmyv13's Avatar
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From: West Bloomfield, MI
Re: Carbon Build-Up on Apex Seals

Originally posted by Dave Meers
I seldom drive this car fast and have never hit redline. What would cause all the carbon build-up
Your question is answered in your previous sentence. Rotaries have to be redlined, it cleans out the carbon. I see 7K RPM in my 85 at least every 3 or 4 minutes when I'm city driving.
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Old Jan 11, 2002 | 10:35 AM
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BiG WaNkLeR's Avatar
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From: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada
Yup, gotta rev that baby up!! No babying these cars. That's what I like about it. Other cars it's bad for it and it's actally good for our cars once in a while. Use the buzzer sometimes as a shift indicator
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Old Jan 11, 2002 | 10:41 AM
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Josepi's Avatar
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Originally posted by BiG WaNkLeR
Use the buzzer sometimes as a shift indicator
You too?

But seriously, if you can still turn the motor, than odds are the apex seals is depressed into the groove. If all is good and the spring behind the apex seal didn't break, than removing the carbon buildup and having the seal move as normally should bring the engine back to life.
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Old Jan 11, 2002 | 10:50 AM
  #5  
BiG WaNkLeR's Avatar
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From: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada
I bought a car which I believe has a blown engine. I spent an entire day starting it at this guys house and finally got it going at night. After ATF treatment and quick start that I regreat putting in it fired up and all hell broke lose and it somked like a mother ******. That was cool. Anyhow, it would rev to over 6 grand but it wouldn't go faster than 60 clicks. Anyhow I drove it 10 km to my grandmas back yard and haven't started it since. I think it may be blown cause with no plugs it makes only one whoosh sound when turning the key. Could a seal just still be stuck after driving it for 10 clicks would release it. I think I'm gonna fire it up one more time but what is the best possible way to look directly into the engine, through the spark plug holes or exhaust. Exhaust would be a pain in the *** for taking the manifold off

Thanks
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Old Jan 11, 2002 | 10:51 AM
  #6  
Josepi's Avatar
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From: Richmond, VA
Originally posted by BiG WaNkLeR
I bought a car which I believe has a blown engine. I spent an entire day starting it at this guys house and finally got it going at night. After ATF treatment and quick start that I regreat putting in it fired up and all hell broke lose and it somked like a mother ******. That was cool. Anyhow, it would rev to over 6 grand but it wouldn't go faster than 60 clicks. Anyhow I drove it 10 km to my grandmas back yard and haven't started it since. I think it may be blown cause with no plugs it makes only one whoosh sound when turning the key. Could a seal just still be stuck after driving it for 10 clicks would release it. I think I'm gonna fire it up one more time but what is the best possible way to look directly into the engine, through the spark plug holes or exhaust. Exhaust would be a pain in the *** for taking the manifold off

Thanks
The starter solenoid might not be engaging. Tap it lightly to see if it has any effect. It also might be flooding.
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Old Jan 11, 2002 | 11:43 AM
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tesla042's Avatar
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From: louisville, KY
Originally posted by BiG WaNkLeR
I bought a car which I believe has a blown engine. I spent an entire day starting it at this guys house and finally got it going at night. After ATF treatment and quick start that I regreat putting in it fired up and all hell broke lose and it somked like a mother ******. That was cool. Anyhow, it would rev to over 6 grand but it wouldn't go faster than 60 clicks. Anyhow I drove it 10 km to my grandmas back yard and haven't started it since. I think it may be blown cause with no plugs it makes only one whoosh sound when turning the key. Could a seal just still be stuck after driving it for 10 clicks would release it. I think I'm gonna fire it up one more time but what is the best possible way to look directly into the engine, through the spark plug holes or exhaust. Exhaust would be a pain in the *** for taking the manifold off

Thanks
about the same thing happened to me.. towed it home, 2.50$ in ATF, got it working..heheh

The exhaust gives you a bitter picture, but yeah, it can be a PITA to get off.. And you'd need a new exhaust gasket, probably.

Did it sound really lopey when it ran? If so, that could be a blown apex seal. You may want to try letting the ATF sit for a few days..

-Tesla
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Old Jan 11, 2002 | 01:17 PM
  #8  
SpeedRacer's Avatar
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From: Portland, Oregon, USA
I've been redlining my engine several times daily for 2 years now on an engine with over 100k and she's still going strong.
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