WAYNE88N/A

Lol, dude, you could have fried a number of things with that ground wire on the solenoid. Alternator, ignition switch and/or circuit, the solenoid contacts could have welded together, all kinds of stuff.

Disconnect a battery cable...

Remove all of the wiring from the starter (mark the damn cables this time, lol). Read the two solenoid lugs out with a meter, on resistance. Any continuity? If yes, your starter is fried. If no, at least that part is good. Now hook the small solenoid wire back up (leave the two big ones off). Reconnect your battery. Hook a meter pos lead to that small lug with the wire on it, and put the neg lead to a ground on the car. Set the meter to voltage. Turn the ignition switch to start. Any voltage? Should be about 12v. If not, your ignition switch circuit is toast. If so, then that part's good. Reconnect all wiring to the starter (and bolt the neg cable to ground now, lol).

Start the car, if she will. Observe alternator voltage. About 14v? Good. If not, you fried your alt. If good, remove the small plug from behind the alt, and shut the ignition switch off. Did the car shut down? If so, your alt is fried. If she didn't shut down, then we're back to the "why is there only one wire on my alt" question...

Denver's too cold now for my Houston blood

HAILERS

If your engine keeps running when you put the key to OFF, then do this: Disconnect that small plug at the rear of the alternator. Start the car. Now turn the key to OFF. Did the engine stop runnning????? YES it did. Your ignition was being back fed by the field votage being created by the diode tiro. I'd suggest the diode in the CPU for the alternator relay is toast and is letting the field voltage from the alt feed the ignition. You've probably noticed that when you put the ignition to OFF and the engine was still running, that you could dump the clutch while in gear and the engine would stop and now all the dash lights etc were off. That's a symptom of a backfeeding field into the ignition circuit. DONE.

ForeverRotary

yah i tried to pull the plug and it didnt work. Everything interior wise still stayed on and so did the car. I think this rules it down to ignition switch right? Or melted wires or something? If my alt was fried would the car even start?

ForeverRotary

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WAYNE88N/A

Dude, are you telling me you've started the car several times now and haven't even checked the alt charging voltage? Just put a meter on the battery posts with her running, observing polarity...

So the bad alt/ bad alt warning relay theory is out the window, eh? Pull the 7.5A "meter" fuse in the cabin fuse box (should be in the middle row) and try it again, just to make sure. Although you were saying that the white/black wire was nowhere to be found, so that fuse may have no affect anyway...

Have you run the car all this time (before the problems) with only one wire (the black/white, I presume) going to that back plug?

Everlastingboost

yeah it ran like the before i blew my **** to hell. Im going to check the voltage on my starter right now to see if the ignition switch is still working. So all i have to do is put the neg and pos cable to the battery with my multi meter to check for polarity?

WAYNE88N/A

Wait a minute- I think we're having a communication breakdown (good Zepplin song for those of you too young to remember that one, lol)

If she starts OK, why do you think there's an ignition switch problem to the starter??

Put the meter on voltage, 15 volt DC scale or over, if you have that function...Red (positive) meter lead on the battery positive post, and neg lead to neg post. With her running, if the alt and charging circuit wiring are good (and the battery is fairly charged), you should get about 14 volts at the battery...