I have a 88 Turbo that I can start, but it will die immediately. I had the car torn apart to clean the injectors and eliminate the pulsation damper. I put it back together and it ran but idled high. I drove it, it boosted fine, but would not idle below 2k. I assumed the throttle cable.

When I shut it off to work on the throttle cable, I noticed that I had not properly closed the cap on the upper radiator hose mount and hot coolant was spewing out. I waited until it was cool and reset the cap. From that point on, the car starts but will not run.

I have searched and searched, but can't find a solution.

I can get the car to run with the flapper in the afm held open and with the fuel pump jumper in. Take out the jumper, it won't run. Leave the jumper but don't hold the flapper, it won't run. I have tested the afm and it is within spec. I took off the UIM and resealed the gasket. I resealed the ACV block off plate.

One thing I noticed was the BAC mounting tab on the bottom was cracked and broke in two when I took the BAC off. I fit the two pieces back together and tightened the nut down.

Would the broken BAC tab cause a massive enough air leak to shut the engine down?

Did I screw up some wiring when the hot coolant spewed out?

I saw a thread about testing the wiring from the AFM to the ECU, but can't find the process now. Anyone got that?

I am going to spray carb cleaner on the engine as soon as I can get my wife to help me again, but she thinks the car is a huge waste of time and money as it is.

I'm really stumped because the car ran fine, then the coolant sprayed out, then the car stopped working.

Any other thoughts?

 

a bac is there to control air so if air is leaking in that will cause your rough idle if enough air is leaking in that can cause a no start. your fuel pump is tyed into the AFM circuit. this could also be your problem i think if theres no AFM signal at the ECU then it will not turn on the fuel pump.