Rebuilt engine. Performed compression test, both cylinders show equal compression. Watched the injectors spew, they work. Watched the spark plugs fire, know they work. Had small intake leak, fixed that issue.

Car cranks and cranks, little bits of putter, like it wants to start, but won't.

Have toggle on fuel, so I turn on and off to inject some fuel, but do not leave on to make car get flooded.

One of the drums on the 6th port is stuck, don't know if that has anything to do with it.

I saw something similar about a fuel relay fix, but I do not know where it is. Might this fix my problem?

Also, set timing, all seems right.

Please, I am running out of time and need this car up and running very quickly. I have dumped all the money I have into this thing and have to have it.

Thanks.

 

It can be frustrating, but you are very close.
After cranking for maybe 10 seconds, feel the primary cable connections. If they are getting warm, you have a weak connection.
Next get a jump from a fresh battery, to get the voltage & cranking speed up.

The stuck aux port is a red herring. It affects torque, but not starting.

 

Thanks. I appreciate it. I'll check the cables.

Someone suggested trying to use starting fluid to try and get it to start once, then engage the fuel system, should I bother with this?

 

Fresh rebuilds often flood. This isn't a well loved method to starting a rebuild so I hold no responsiblity for the flaming that will ensue, BUT I have had great luck pulling the car to a start.. Try that if all else fails..

 

Is your ignition timing right? It's common to accidentally stab the CAS one or two teeth off, or backwards.

But I agree with a push start. NEVER pull start as you can easily cause an accident if the car was to leap forward. Often rebuilds have low compression and all kinds of gunk from the build (assembly lube, vascelene, etc.) that clogs up the plugs.

 

Again, great thanks. I will try these.

 

Well, I tried them all, and I'm still not able to get it started. I tried with starting fluid and everything. It almost started, though it sounded like it didn't want to. I just had a thought, I wonder if my new cat might be plugged up. I was able to get it started on one cylinder before I knew it was the apex seals, and it started glowing red hot. I suppose it is possible that it is now plugged.

I'll check it tonight. Also, I noticed a little smoke coming from the area around my intake, like a small leak. An intake leak wouldn't keep it from starting would it? I would think that it might run and idle like crap, but it would at least start.

Does anyone have any other thoughts? I will entertain anything from the intelligent to the ludicrous! LOL

Thanks in advance.

-Scott

 

You started it on one rotor, not cylinder.

Does it fire, not idle and then die within 5 seconds? You said sputter, so that might be an AFM problem. As in, not plugged in.

 

2nd the AFM... But it really should start on a push or pull start. even blown motors fire up then..

 

Never idles. Just tries to start, you can hear the engine speeding up, but it never reaches a point where it can run on it's own, not even for a revolution.

Right rotor...

AFM? Sorry, don't know what that is. Please clarify.

-thanks.

 

Air Flow meter, the thing under the airbox has a large black plug.

 

Yep, found it, ummm....is there a way to test it? Or perhaps, bypass it, fool the system, something to tell me if this is the issue?

And will one that is faulty keep the car from starting?

 

Was it plugged in?

 

Affirmative. It was and is plugged in.

 

Have you tried to push start it yet?