Car won't start, no turning over...
#1
Rotartist
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Car won't start, no turning over...
All I get is headlights, the interior lights don't work the engine warning lights do not come on, this car refuses to work. I turn the key and nothing. I replaced all the fuses... It still refuses to crank. WTF? I tried jumping it... It's like there is no power getting to any of the starter/ignition stuff... ANY IDEA's????? HELP I NEED TO GET THIS THING UP AND RUNNING!!!!
THe car started up great before I swapped out the motor.... Now it won't even try..
THe car started up great before I swapped out the motor.... Now it won't even try..
#3
Have your battery checked.
Check the connections between the starter and the battery. Make sure the battery ground is good. If battery is good and car still refuses to start, jump the starter directy from the battery using jumper cables. But be very careful.
Check the connections between the starter and the battery. Make sure the battery ground is good. If battery is good and car still refuses to start, jump the starter directy from the battery using jumper cables. But be very careful.
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#9
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
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The feed to your ignition switch is disconnected. Either at the engine fuse area where there is a single black wire connector about six inches below the fuse box or at the ignition switch connector that is located about a foot below the switch itself. It's a pure black wire in a two wire connector. The other wire in that two wire connector is black/white.
Common problem. Especially if you've been working around the a/c cpmpressore area or engine fuse box. NOT a fuse issue per se.
Common problem. Especially if you've been working around the a/c cpmpressore area or engine fuse box. NOT a fuse issue per se.
#11
HAILERS
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None. On my cars there is a single black wire that comes from the engine fuse box. On the end of that wire is a single blade connector about six inches below the fuse box. It connects to another single black wire and continues on thru the bulkhead to the four or five igniton switch connectors located about a foot below the ignition switch. That single black wire goes to a two socket connector. One wire will be black/white and the other the pure black wire.
If you go to the ignition switch plug I just mentioned and pulled it apart, you'd find that the pure black wire coming from the engine bay has 12vdc all day long as long as a battery is in the car fully charged up. Key does not have to be ON to check this with a meter.
It's more likely the wire is pulled apart in the engine bay. About six inches below the engine fuse box. About the height of the a/c compressor.
The symptoms of this wire being disconected is that the headlights will work just fine but the idiot lights don't work if the key is to ON.
If you go to the ignition switch plug I just mentioned and pulled it apart, you'd find that the pure black wire coming from the engine bay has 12vdc all day long as long as a battery is in the car fully charged up. Key does not have to be ON to check this with a meter.
It's more likely the wire is pulled apart in the engine bay. About six inches below the engine fuse box. About the height of the a/c compressor.
The symptoms of this wire being disconected is that the headlights will work just fine but the idiot lights don't work if the key is to ON.
#13
Rotartist
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Yep HAILERS was right.. I plugged up the single spade connector and the car started up first try. It has been down and out since OCtober and for about 2 weeks this was the only thing holding me up. Now all I have to do is get the thing timed properly and check for vacume leaks. SWEET!!!
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