Car won't start - no idiot lights at all - need help from electrical guru
03-21-10, 06:25 PM
#1
Car won't start - no idiot lights at all - need help from electrical guru
I am in the middle of a turbo swap and went to crank the engine to test compression, and got nothing. No clicking, no idiot lights, the radio doesn't come on, etc. The dome lights work, though, as do the headlights.
After testing everything out I determined that there isn't any power getting to the ignition switch. I checked continuity from the POS post of the battery to the B connector on the ignition switch and there is no continuity (connectors at battery are good, I just replaced them). I checked the FSM and determined that the wire goes from the battery to the 80 MAP fuse in the ignition switch, thats it. The fuse is good. There is continuity from both sides of the fuse to the battery post, but still not to the ignition switch. I checked the connectors under the dash for the ignition switch, and they are all connected.
So what the heck is going on? From how I am reading the wiring diagram, the 80 AMP fuse connects directly to the ignition switch, yet there is no continuity. Is there something I am missing? Is there something else that isn't listed in the wiring diagram? Any help is greatly appreciated!
After testing everything out I determined that there isn't any power getting to the ignition switch. I checked continuity from the POS post of the battery to the B connector on the ignition switch and there is no continuity (connectors at battery are good, I just replaced them). I checked the FSM and determined that the wire goes from the battery to the 80 MAP fuse in the ignition switch, thats it. The fuse is good. There is continuity from both sides of the fuse to the battery post, but still not to the ignition switch. I checked the connectors under the dash for the ignition switch, and they are all connected.
So what the heck is going on? From how I am reading the wiring diagram, the 80 AMP fuse connects directly to the ignition switch, yet there is no continuity. Is there something I am missing? Is there something else that isn't listed in the wiring diagram? Any help is greatly appreciated!
03-21-10, 06:41 PM
#2
There is a connector, FE01, close to the engine fuse box where the wire coming out of the 80 amp fuse connects to. From there the Black wire goes to the ignition switch. If you have continuity from the battery positive terminal to the fuse box then you need to check the continuity from the black wire at FE01 to the ignition switch.
03-21-10, 07:01 PM
#3
Well, I didn't find that connector at all. When I was tracing wires I did find a loose large-gauge wire. When I ohmed it out it turned out to be connected to the 80A fuse. After removing some electrical tape from the harness I discovered that this was connected to a jumper wire by a crimped on butt connector. Seriously, WTF? Apparently I knocked it loose when I was moving some stuff around, but wow.
On a more positive note, I determined that my engine at least has decent compression. Not outstanding, but good for a j-spec block. Hopefully the soft seals are good, but at least there shouldn't be any permanent damage due to blown apex seals.
On a more positive note, I determined that my engine at least has decent compression. Not outstanding, but good for a j-spec block. Hopefully the soft seals are good, but at least there shouldn't be any permanent damage due to blown apex seals.
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trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
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